Things to do in Bergama (Pergamum)
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Acropolis
The road up to the acropolis winds 5km from the Red Basilica to a car park (TL3) at the top, with some souvenir and refreshment stands nearby. If you're planning to walk to the site, take plenty of water as you won't be able to stock up on the way. A short cut shaves a couple of kilometres from the walk; opposite the Red Basilica, take Mahmut Şevket Paşa Sokak, the narrow lane between Aklar Gıda groceries and a carpet shop, which leads to the Lower Agora. Take care as the path is steep and not always clearly marked.
A line of rather faded (and in some places completely obliterated) blue dots marks a suggested route around the main structures, which include the library a…
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Sağlam Restaurant
This Bergama favourite has moved out of town to the Opet garage by the otogar. Despite the proximity of the petrol pumps, it has a pleasant dining environment and an unlimited buffet. Beer, meze, pide and kebabs are also offered.
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Archaeology Museum
Right in the centre of town, the Archaeology Museum boasts a small but substantial collection of artefacts, including Greek, Roman and Byzantine gravestones, busts and pillars. Most interestingly, it features a collection of statues from the 4th century BC that formed part of the so-called 'Pergamum School' when sculptors, breaking with the more grotesque and stylised traditions of previous centuries, first began to represent the gods as recognisably human with expressive features. Other finds from the surrounding sites include a smashed Roman tablet listing city laws, discovered at the Lower Agora on the acropolis.
Look out too for the scale replica of the Altar of Zeus (…
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Cafe Nostalji
Lying 20m north of the post office, this gem of a place lies hidden down a side street off Bankalar Caddesi. With walls decorated with musical instruments and old records, it has a great atmosphere particularly at night. There's live Turkish music on Thursdays and Saturdays from 21:00 to midnight (to 02:00 in high season). Alcohol is not served.
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Monday Market
Bergama has a bustling Monday market which stretches for around 3km from the otogar to the Red Basilica. It's great for fresh fruit and veg. Böblingen Caddesi and the area around the old bus station is great for picnic-hunting. Cheese, olives, fresh bread and dried fruit are all sold.
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Red Basilica
The cathedral-sized Red Basilica was originally a giant temple to the Egyptian gods Serapis, Isis and Harpocrates, built in the 2nd century AD. It's still an imposing-looking place, though rather scattered and battered-looking these days. Be careful as you make you way around as several sections of the basilica's high walls are severely damaged.
During its pagan pomp, this must have been an awe-inspiring place. In his Revelation, St John the Divine wrote that this was one of the seven churches of the Apocalypse, singling it out as the throne of the devil. Look for a hole in the podium in the centre, which allowed a priest to hide and appear to speak through the 10m-high cu…
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Asclepion
An ancient medical centre, the Asclepion was founded by Archias, a local who had been cured at the Asclepion of Epidaurus (Greece). Treatments included mud baths, the use of herbs and ointments, enemas and sunbathing. Diagnosis was often by dream analysis.
Pergamum's centre came to the fore under Galen (AD 131–210), who was born here and studied in Alexandria, Greece and Asia Minor before setting up shop as physician to Pergamum's gladiators. Recognised as perhaps the greatest early physician, Galen added considerably to knowledge of the circulatory and nervous systems, and also systematised medical theory. Under his influence, the medical school at Pergamum became renowne…
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Meydan Restaurant
One of Bergama's oldest restaurants and a local institution, this simple but sparkling place serves good, regional food at fair prices. It also has tables outside. Try the Bergama speciality, lahmaçun (wheat cakes with minced meat).
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Köy Evi
This is a fabulous family-run place with cosy seating inside or out in the courtyard. The home-cooked dishes change daily, but typically include stuffed peppers, mantı and patlıcan kebap (meat grilled with aubergine).
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Simgecan Pastanesi
Next door to its brother cafe, the Simge Pastanesi ve Simit Dünyasi, Simgecan Pastanesi is one of the best patisseries in town. There's a good selection of pastries, cakes and Turkish puddings. The baklava is delicious.
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Sandal Balıkevı
A new fish restaurant with tables inside and out, it's well run, clean and popular locally. Fish is fresh and prices are reasonable. Try the speciality sardines. There's live music some evenings.
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Paksoy
This popular place has some tables outside. Pides are made in front of you, freshly to order. Try the speciality kıymalı yumurtalı pide (pide with meat and egg).
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Simge Pastanesi ve Simit Dünyasi
For a coffee and cake between sights, Simge serves all manner of pastries and baklava. Along with the neighbouring Simgecan Pastanesi, run by the same family, it's considered the best patisserie in town.
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Pala Kebap Salonu
Though small and simple, this place is terrifically popular in Bergama and the food's delicious. Try the spicy Bergama köfte.
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Hacı Hekim Hamamı
Situated near the Kulaksız Cami, this 16th-century hamam charges TL40 for the full works.
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Çiçeksever
In a good area for small eateries, Çiçeksever serves simple dishes such as pide and çorba.
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Zıkkım
With shady garden seating just off the main road, Zıkkım makes a welcome mid-town pit stop, offering cheap köfte and salads (white-bean salad TL3.50).
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Paksoy Pide
Pint-sized Paksoy is clean and patronised by locals. Watch the chef rolling and flipping the pide classics in front of the oven.
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Market
Bergama has a bustling Monday market, which stretches from the old otogar past the Red Basilica. It's great for fresh fruit and veg. Böblingen Caddesi and the area around the old bus station are good for picnic-hunting. Cheese, olives, fresh bread and dried fruit are all sold.
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Kervan
Next to Gobi Pension, Kervan is popular among locals for its large outdoor terrace and excellent food. The menu features a good range of kebaps, pide, çorba (soup) and, for dessert, künefe (syrup-soaked dough and sweet cheese sprinkled with pistachios).
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Bergama Ticaret Odası Sosyal Tesisleri
To reach this restaurant, follow the road 300m up the hill behind Odyssey Guesthouse and it's in the park on the left. It's one of the only eateries in Bergama that serves alcohol and its outdoor terrace, garden and hall-like dining room have sweeping views of town. There's nothing jaw-dropping on its meze trolley, but it attracts a steady trickle of diners. Do not visit late, as the surrounding streets are not Bergama's most salubrious neighbourhood.
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Bergama Sofrası
Sit outside next to the hamam or inside the diner-like interior, with its clean surfaces and open kitchen under bright lights. The vegetables, chips and soup look rather stewed by the evening, but meat dishes such as spicy köfte are freshly cooked.
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