Things to do in Behramkale & Assos
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Yelken Camp
Just before Çakır, Yelken is a good spot for a sundowner with a thatched bar, colourful sofas and music to soundtrack your wave watching.
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Temple of Athena
Right on top of the hill in Behramkale village is this 6th-century BC Ionic temple. The short tapered columns with plain capitals are hardly elegant, and the concrete reconstruction hurts more than helps, but the site and the view out to Lesvos are spectacular and well worth the admission fee.
Villagers set up stalls all the way up the hill to the temple, touting local products from bags of dried herbs or mushrooms to linen.
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Panorama Restaurant
The views at good-natured Mehmet and family's restaurant certainly live up to its name. Dishes include a range of meat feasts, plus mezes such as börülce (black-eyed peas), stuffed pumpkin flowers and avcı boreğı (hunter's börek; pastry filled with meat or cheese).
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Other Ruins
Scramble down the hill from the temple, or walk along the road to Assos, to find the necropolis. Assos' sarcophagi (from the Greek, 'flesh-eaters') were famous. According to Pliny the Elder, the stone was caustic and 'ate' the flesh off the deceased in 40 days. Other ruins include the remains of a late-2nd-century-BC theatre and basilica.
Ringing the hill are stretches of the city walls of medieval Assos, which are among the most impressive medieval fortifications in Turkey.
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Mantı & Börek Evi
Serving mantı (Turkish ravioli), avcı boreğı and a good range of mezes, this lokanta (eatery serving ready-made food) has a small terrace overlooking the main square. It's one of the only eateries on the hill offering beer.
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Hüdavendigar Camii
Beside the entrance to the temple, this 14th-century mosque is a simply constructed Ottoman mosque – a dome on squinches set on top of a square room – built before the Turks had conquered Constantinople and assimilated the lessons of Sancta Sophia. It's one of just two remaining Ottoman mosques of its kind in Turkey the (other is in Bursa).
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Çakır Restaurant
Past Hotel Kervansaray, the Çakýr brothers' restaurant is one of the laid-back hang-outs overlooking a pebble beach and rickety wooden platforms above the water. You can pick meze and mains such as kalamar and köfte from the fridge.
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Biber Evi Restaurant
Small parties only, book ahead to dine at this boutique hotel, which uses ingredients fresh from its kitchen gardens. Dishes include slow-roasted lamb or goat and fish. The multi-talented chef, Lütfi, came third in a nationwide meze competition with his cured tuna.
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Aile Çay Bahçesi
For a coffee or Coke on the main square, this place has a pleasant shaded terrace offering attractive views. It serves gözleme (TL4) good enough to gobble.
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Uzunev
Uzunev is considered the best fish restaurant in town, and has pleasant tables on the terrace and seafront. Try the succulent speciality, sea bass à l'Aristotle (steamed in a special stock), or the delicious seafood meze (TL10). In high season after 10pm, it metamorphoses into a disco-bar.
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Pyramit
For decent-quality silver jewellery made with local minerals, head for Pyramit. The talented Levent, a geologist, makes 80% of the pieces.
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Öz Antik Hanlıcılik
One supplier with a good reputation for carpets is Öz Antik Hanlıcılik on the main street just off the main square. Ask for Yusuf.
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Öğretmenin Yeri
Offering enticing home cooking at pleasing prices, the Yeri competes with the Assos next door.
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Assos Restaurant
Widely recommended and much-loved, the diminutive but endearing Assos provides excellent home cooking at pleasing prices. It offers no less than 25 dishes including veggie options. Take a table on the tiny terrace overlooking the main square.
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Assos Kale Restaurant
Centrally located in Behramkale and with a pleasant shaded terrace, the Kale is a great place for a quick eat, offering good home cooking at unbeatable prices. Try the delicious mantı (Turkish ravioli) or homemade creamy ayran (yoghurt).
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Assos Aile Çay Bahçesi
For a coffee or Coke on the main square, the Assos Aile Çay Bahçesi has a pleasant shaded terrace offering attractive views. It serves gözleme good enough to gobble, and drinks.
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