Things to do in Ayvalik
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Korfez Diving Centre
Ayvalık is famed among the diving fraternity for its red coral. Lying at depths between 30m to 42m, it's not for beginners though. The best dive sites to see it are at Deli Mehmetler, Ezer Bey and Kerbela. Other marine life you might come across includes moray eels, gropers, octopus, encrusting anemones and, occasionally, sea horses. There are various dive companies in Ayvalık who can organise trips to see the coral including Korfez Diving Centre.
A day's diving (including two dives, lunch, all equipment hire and insurance) costs €50 per person. For those keen to learn or to improve, the company runs various PADI courses, including the four-day open-water course (€450).…
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Alibey Island
Named after a hero of the Turkish War of Independence, Alibey Island (Cunda) boasts abandoned Greek churches, seaside restaurants in old stone houses and hundreds of condominiums. The northern part of the island forms the Patriça Nature Reserve; you'll see the ruins of the Greek Ayışığı Manastıri on an offshore island as you head out there.
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Tarlakusu Gurmeko
Run by a clued-up couple from İzmir, this cafe sells a range of teas and coffees, including good cappuccino (TL4.50). If you enjoy your cup, you can buy a bag of beans or leaves from the shop. Nibbles include cookies, brownies, soup, salads, cheese plates and börek (TL3.50).
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Avşar Büfe
Famous throughout Turkey is Ayvalık tost (Ayvalık 'toast') and this is the place to get it. Traditionally they're filled with sucuk (Turkish sausage), cheese, tomato, ketchup and mayonaise, but you can opt just for one or two ingredients if you prefer! Though not exactly haute cuisine, they're delicious if you're hungry enough.
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Şeytan Sofrası
The place to be at sunset is Şeytan Sofrası, a hilltop 9km south of town that offers panoramic views of the surrounding islands. Dolmuşes travel here only from July to mid-September. Otherwise, you'll have to walk, hitch (unlikely) or take a taxi. A couple of cafés wait to serve drinks and light meals to sunset-watchers.
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Hatipoğlu Pastaneleri
With a great selection of traditional Turkish puds, pastries and cakes, this friendly patisserie makes a terrific breakfast or tea stop. Try the Ayvalık speciality, lok (sponge oozing honey; TL3), and go on, add a scoop of dondurma (ice cream).
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Papalina Restaurant
For a table on the seafront without paying a premium, head for the cheerful and popular Papalina on Alibey Island, with its chequered tablecloths and lovely position right next to the fishing boats. Try the papalina balik, a fish speciality of Ayvalık.
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Paşalı Restaurant
Tucked down side streets, but with a devoted following among those in the know, the new Paşslı does great Turkish home cooking at unbeatable prices. Dishes (including good veggie options) change every day and there's a useful pick-and-point counter.
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Bay Nihat
In a very attractive 150-year-old Greek house, this restaurant is considered Alibey's best for fish and has well-positioned seafront tables. It has a huge range of excellent mezes (its fish mezes have won several pan-Turkey awards).
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Olivia Jazz Club
Currently considered Ayvalık's brightest nightly star, it plays live music daily. It lies one block off Atatürk Bulvarı; take the side street bang opposite the fish market then take the first left onto 2 Sokak.
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Taş Kahve
From the card players and swooping swallows inside to the children tearing around outside, this is Alibey's favourite venue to catch up on town gossip.
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Dinazor Bar
Set in a 19th-century olive oil warehouse, this stunning and super-cool bar is Ayvalık's best. In summer, there's live music nightly from 23:00 to 02:00.
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Deniziçi Cafeterya
The Sea Café serves light meals and snacks including pizzas, kalamar and burgers. Just west of White Knight Café, in among the pricey fish restaurants, it's a perfect spot for a sundowner.
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Martı Restaurant
A smart new place with an excellent reputation, it specialises in Ayvalık and regional specialities as well as fish.
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Nargileli Kahwe
If it's mellow you're after, head for this old stone house where you can chill out on kilim- and cushion-covered benches.
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Şehir Kulübü
With a gorgeous setting jutting into the sea, this restaurant is the top local pick for fresh fish at feasible prices.
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White Knight Café
Popular cafe by the statue of Atatürk, overseen by Ahmet and his British wife, Anthea. The vibe is mellow, except when major football matches are shown, and it sells English-language magazines and previous-day newspapers.
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Studio Organic
The studio above Tarlakusu Gurmeko cafe offers a cinema club (TL2) on Friday evening, plus night classes – yoga on Mondays, drawing on Tuesdays, photography on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and tango and salsa on Wednesdays.
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Old Town
There are few specific sights but Ayvalık's old town is a joy to wander around, with its maze of cobbled streets lined with wonderfully worn-looking Greek houses. You can pick up a map with information about sights, including the former Greek Orthodox churches, at Tarlakusu Gurmeko. There are plans to turn the broken-chimneyed former olive-oil factory just northwest of the cafe into a local museum.
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Markets
Thursday sees one of the region's largest and most vibrant markets, and stalls seem to fill the whole town. Seek out the köy pazarı (village market), which takes place next to the main pazar yeri (bazaar). A daily fish market (Balık Pazarı) also takes place on the front next to the terminal for the ferry to Alibey.
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Deniz Kestanesi
Perhaps the smartest restaurant in town, and certainly one of the most expensive (although it's better value than Şehir Kulübü), the 'sea urchin' is a very stylish indoor/outdoor affair. It's right on the waterfront, with wooden floors, high ceilings, leather chairs and great views of Alibey's twinkling lights. Meat dishes are available in addition to meze (TL6 to TL14) and balık including bass, bream, shark and mullet.
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Cruises
In addition to the dive sites and summer ferries to Lesvos, cruises head around the bay's islands, including Alibey, and stop here and there for swimming, sunbathing and walking. They generally depart at 11am and return by 6.30pm. Jale Tour also cruises to Assos (TL40), leaving at 10.30am and returning by 7.30pm.
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Beaches
There are a number of good, sandy beaches a few kilometres to the south. Sarımsaklı Plaj (Garlic Beach) is the most famed and will inevitably be the most crowded, as this is package-holiday territory. Stay on the bus a bit longer until you reach Badavut to the west and you'll find some quieter stretches.
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Balıkçı
The waterfront 'Fisherman' restaurant, run by a local association of fishermen and marine environmentalists, is the perfect place to grab a rakı (aniseed brandy) and understand the expression 'rakı, balık, Ayvalık'. The staff happily talk you through the meze and fish, explaining which catches are less boney and so on. After that, settle into the tiled terrace or sit inside for a better view of the Turkish troubadours, who get a singalong going from 8.30pm onwards.
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