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Zip up to El-Hana's 10th floor for fabulous views...
Resembling a much younger cousin of London's Big Ben, a burnished metal clock tower forms a glimmering landmark towards the western end of ave Habib Bourguiba...
The vaguely cine-themed (perhaps the name refers to the award ceremony) bar-restaurant upstairs is fun, though not for single women (the women here are generally prostitutes)...
The entertaining Dah Dah Happy Land Park is an amusement park with lots of rides. It's part of the developing, trendy district of Berges de Lac, and there's a lively corniche (coastal road) to wander up and down.
With its curly wrought-iron chairs, Formica tabletops and wicker-framed mirrors that could have been plucked from 1970s suburbia, this chirpy place has simple Tunisian favourites, including fresh fish.
This feels like an Italian-American mobsters' haunt. It's in a snug back room and is nothing fancy, but the food is good and there are faded black-and-white photos of faded stars on the walls.
Bright (perhaps too bright) Sfaxoise place that pulls the Tunisian families with friendly service, and a good selection of standards and regional specialties, such as riz au lapin (rabbit rice).
Fabulously ornate façades dot the city. Supreme examples include the Hôtel Majestic, a splendid almost-edible confection - currently closed for renovation though not a lot seems to be happening.
Dar el-Bey was the Husseinite rulers' city pad, but the beys (provincial governors) preferred the Bardo, so it was used as an official guest house until 1881, when the French arrived.
Cluttered and busy. Tall ceilings, brick arches, swords, shells, and yellow-and-green swirling tiling all supply a strong Andalusian flavour, matched by the seafood slant of the menu.
Central and cheap, with tables that fill a narrow alley by the Zaytouna Mosque. The simple menu offers Tunisian soul food: couscous, grilled fish, fried chicken, half-a-head of lamb.
This handy little diner serves up pizzas, pastas, couscous and French, Italian and Tunisian salads in gargantuan serves. It also serves alcohol, as does its (all-male) bar next door.
La Marsa beach is the best, and less crowded than those at La Goulette, Sidi Bou Saïd and Carthage (but note the patch nearest the president's palace at Carthage is quite pristine).
At the medina's heart lies this beautiful mosque, its forest of columns scrounged from Roman Carthage. Non-Muslims can only enter the courtyard, but it's still deeply impressive.
Souq el-Attarine, the Perfume Makers' Souq, leads into the Souq el-Trouk, the Turkish Souq - traditionally the tailors' souq, and still selling some outfits among the souvenirs.
Whitewashed alcoves around small, calm courtyards, and mute-coloured sofas - this is the chichi way to smoke your sheesha (waterpipe used to smoke tobacco); has good Turkish coffee.
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