Zaytouna Mosque

Everything in the medina leads to or from the Zaytouna Mosque. Zaytouna means 'olive tree' - it's said the founder, Hassan Ibn Nooman, conqueror of Byzantine Carthage, used to hold lessons under a tree here.

Entering, it's impossible not to be awed by the calm of the open space after the busy souqs.

Dating from various eras, the building is remarkably harmonious. The first mosque here was built in AD 734, but it was rebuilt in the 9th century by the Aghlabid ruler Ibrahim ibn Ahmed (AD 856-63), and resembles the Great Mosque in Kairouan in design. The builders recycled 184 columns from Roman Carthage for the central prayer hall. The adjoining prayer room is 9th century. The dome, with its patterned red-and-white brickwork, shows a European - even Byzantine - influence, while the minaret dates from the 19th century.

The mosque's theological faculty was a hugely important Islamic university until it was closed down by President Bourguiba after independence to try to reduce the social influence of religion. The faculty was re-opened in 1987.

Non-Muslims are allowed in as far as the courtyard. Nearby shops allow views of the mosque from their roof terraces, though sometimes you also have to face a hard sell on the way back through the shop.