Sights in Tozeur
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Palmeraie
Tozeur's palmeraie is the second-largest in the country with at least 200,000 palm trees (locals claim twice that number) spread over an area of more than 10 sq km. It's a classic example of tiered oasis agriculture. The system is watered by more than 200 springs that produce almost 60 million litres of water a day, distributed around the various holdings under a complex system devised by the mathematician Ibn Chabbat in the 13th century AD.
The best way to explore the palmeraie is on foot. Take the road that runs south off ave Abdulkacem Chebbi next to the Hôtel Continental and follow the signs to the Zoo du Paradis. After about 500m the road passes the old quarter of Bl…
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Dar Charaït Museum
The museum is part of the impressive Dar Charaït complex. The building in which the museum is housed is an extravagant reproduction of an old palace and contains collections of pottery, jewellery, costumes and other antiques, as well as an art gallery. Scattered throughout the rooms off the splendid main courtyard is a series of replicas of scenes from Tunisian life, past and present.
They include the bedroom of the last bey (provincial governor in the Ottoman Empire), a palace scene, a typical kitchen, a hammam (public bathhouse), wedding scenes and a Bedouin tent. The museum attendants, dressed as servants of the bey, set the tone for the museum. The complex also inclu…
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Chak Wak Park
Several kilometres southeast of the statue of Ibn Chabbat is the incongruous and trippy Chak Wak Park, an enormous testament to the vision of one passionate and wealthy man. The former mayor of Tozeur and the driving force behind the Dar Charaït museum, has created what amounts to a three-dimensional liberal education on evolution, history and religion. Surrounded by high walls reminiscent of the King Kong films, inside is a circuit that takes you from dinosaur-sized replicas of dinosaurs to a replica of Noah's Ark with models of animals lining up two by two while a sound system pipes in rain effects. Even the Biblical parting of the red sea is represented here with wall…
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Ouled el-Hadef
Tozeur's delightful old quarter was built in the 14th century AD to house the El-Hadef clan, which had grown rich on the proceeds of the caravan trade. The area is a maze of narrow, covered alleys and small squares. It's famous for its amazing traditional brickwork, which uses protruding bricks to create intricate geometric patterns in relief. The style is found only here and in nearby Nefta.
The easiest entrance to the Ouled el-Hadef is from ave de Kairouan.
Like the medinas further north in Tunisia, wandering through the Ouled el-Hadef is a journey of discovery best made by getting lost. The most well-preserved sections are east of the museum, including the house of the…
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Belvedere Rocks
A sandy track running south off the Route Touristique near the Dar Charaït Museum leads to the Belvedere Rocks. Steps have been cut into the highest rock, giving access to a spectacular sunset view over the oasis and the chott (salt lake). It's a pleasant 20-minute walk. Too much landscaping has taken away somewhat from the beauty of the natural setting, but not entirely; look for the likeness of Abdulkacem Chebbi.
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Zoo du Paradis
Ironically, or cynically, or simply honestly named, the Zoo du Paradis, on the southern side of the palmeraie, is anything but for the animals housed, if it can be called that, in tiny cages. The star turn is a Coca-Cola-drinking camel. The closing time isn't set in stone and paradise usually closes its pearly gates when it gets dark.
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Abbes
Further on from old quarter of Bled el-Hader is the village of Abbes where the tomb of marabout (holy man) Sidi Bou Lifa stands in the shade of an enormous jubube (Chinese date) tree. There are lots of paths leading off into the palmeraie along the irrigation canals. It's delightfully cool among all the vegetation.
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Museum Archéologique et Traditionnel
The easiest entrance to the Ouled el-Hadef is from ave de Kairouan. Follow the signs pointing to the small Museum Archéologique et Traditionnel, which occupies the old koubba (small domed tomb) of Sidi Bou Aissa. It houses a small collection of local finds, costumes and displays on local culture.
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Bled el-Hader
The old quarter of Bled el-Hader is thought to be the site of ancient Thuzuros. The mosque in the main square dates from the 11th century, while the minaret (mosque tower) stands on the square base of an old Roman tower.
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