Things to do in Southern Tunisia
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Horizons Deserts Voyages Tours
Most people show up in Douz already part of a tour though it's also quite easy to arrange a trip into the desert through this officially recognised agency.
reviewed
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Restaurant-Pizzeria La Fontana
A few doors north at the start of the Zone Touristique, Restaurant-Pizzeria La Fontana serve quality pies.
reviewed
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Palmeraie
Tozeur's palmeraie is the second-largest in the country with at least 200,000 palm trees (locals claim twice that number) spread over an area of more than 10 sq km. It's a classic example of tiered oasis agriculture. The system is watered by more than 200 springs that produce almost 60 million litres of water a day, distributed around the various holdings under a complex system devised by the mathematician Ibn Chabbat in the 13th century AD.
The best way to explore the palmeraie is on foot. Take the road that runs south off ave Abdulkacem Chebbi next to the Hôtel Continental and follow the signs to the Zoo du Paradis. After about 500m the road passes the old quarter of Bl…
reviewed
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Dar Charaït Museum
The museum is part of the impressive Dar Charaït complex. The building in which the museum is housed is an extravagant reproduction of an old palace and contains collections of pottery, jewellery, costumes and other antiques, as well as an art gallery. Scattered throughout the rooms off the splendid main courtyard is a series of replicas of scenes from Tunisian life, past and present.
They include the bedroom of the last bey (provincial governor in the Ottoman Empire), a palace scene, a typical kitchen, a hammam (public bathhouse), wedding scenes and a Bedouin tent. The museum attendants, dressed as servants of the bey, set the tone for the museum. The complex also inclu…
reviewed
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Chak Wak Park
Several kilometres southeast of the statue of Ibn Chabbat is the incongruous and trippy Chak Wak Park, an enormous testament to the vision of one passionate and wealthy man. The former mayor of Tozeur and the driving force behind the Dar Charaït museum, has created what amounts to a three-dimensional liberal education on evolution, history and religion. Surrounded by high walls reminiscent of the King Kong films, inside is a circuit that takes you from dinosaur-sized replicas of dinosaurs to a replica of Noah's Ark with models of animals lining up two by two while a sound system pipes in rain effects. Even the Biblical parting of the red sea is represented here with wall…
reviewed
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Ouled el-Hadef
Tozeur's delightful old quarter was built in the 14th century AD to house the El-Hadef clan, which had grown rich on the proceeds of the caravan trade. The area is a maze of narrow, covered alleys and small squares. It's famous for its amazing traditional brickwork, which uses protruding bricks to create intricate geometric patterns in relief. The style is found only here and in nearby Nefta.
The easiest entrance to the Ouled el-Hadef is from ave de Kairouan.
Like the medinas further north in Tunisia, wandering through the Ouled el-Hadef is a journey of discovery best made by getting lost. The most well-preserved sections are east of the museum, including the house of the…
reviewed
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Pegase
Pegase is a one-stop shop that seems to have a monopoly on most of the tourist business around the great dune. Of course you could probably arrange things on your own with any of the tour companies, your hotel or one of the freelance guides who will likely introduce themselves to you around town or near the great dune. Most people arrive as part of a large group and everything is prearranged.
Part of the fun of a camel trip into the dunes (if alone you should be able to negotiate a ride for around TD10 per hour) is being outfitted in a long Berber style tunic. A lap around a desert track on a go-cart is around TD10 but for a much more exciting ride in the dunes it's a who…
reviewed
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Palmeraie
Not that you're counting, but the palmeraie here is the largest of all the Tunisian desert oases, with almost half a million palm trees. A wonderfully productive place, it turns out a remarkable assortment of fruit and vegetables - as well as prized deglat ennour (finger of light) dates.
The best way to explore it is to walk out along one of the two roads leading south through the palmeraie from the western end of ave des Martyrs. The roads link up at the Zone Touristique.
reviewed
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Tej el-Khayem
Whether you eat indoors, in a Berber style tent or out on the sand, Tej el-Khayem serves up some of the best meals in Douz. The à la carte menu includes all the standards but if you order in advance and/or are part of a large group you can experiment with camel (around TD12) or try the coucha agneau - a local speciality of meat cooked underground in gargoulette (pottery). Wine and beer are served and dancing and performances can be arranged in advance.
reviewed
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Belvedere Rocks
A sandy track running south off the Route Touristique near the Dar Charaït Museum leads to the Belvedere Rocks. Steps have been cut into the highest rock, giving access to a spectacular sunset view over the oasis and the chott (salt lake). It's a pleasant 20-minute walk. Too much landscaping has taken away somewhat from the beauty of the natural setting, but not entirely; look for the likeness of Abdulkacem Chebbi.
reviewed
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Great Dune
Douz is the most convenient place to get a taste for the Sahara, though it's really only a taste. The Sahara desert proper starts 50km south of the Zone Touristique. Unless you're planning a longer excursion into the desert, the action centres around the great dune. It can't compare to the sand seas of the Grand Erg Oriental, but is a gentle introduction for those with limited time.
reviewed
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Musée du Sahara
A visit to the small folk museum provides some perspective and context on the desert lifestyle. It has a good collection of regional costumes, a mock nomad tent and an interesting section explaining the tattoos worn by local women. There is also information on camel husbandry and a section on desert plants. It's definitely worth a visit although text is in Arabic and French.
reviewed
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Shopping at the Souq
Not surprisingly, sand roses are commonly sold in the shops around town. Tourist versions of Saharan sandals (comfortable slip-on shoes made from camel skin) decorated with palm motifs etc are also widely available. All around the souq and surrounding streets, you'll find Berber rugs, sand roses, Touareg jewellery and a range of other pots and pieces.
reviewed
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Centre Loisir el-Niffer
Set deep in the palmeraie, this is a great place for a sheesha under the palm trees, or a coffee or cool drink. There's a swimming pool and a few courting couples and families sitting at the tables spread throughout the garden. To get here, take the road past the Restaurant-Bar Le Petit Prince and follow the signs (about 700m).
reviewed
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Zoo du Paradis
Ironically, or cynically, or simply honestly named, the Zoo du Paradis, on the southern side of the palmeraie, is anything but for the animals housed, if it can be called that, in tiny cages. The star turn is a Coca-Cola-drinking camel. The closing time isn't set in stone and paradise usually closes its pearly gates when it gets dark.
reviewed
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Abbes
Further on from old quarter of Bled el-Hader is the village of Abbes where the tomb of marabout (holy man) Sidi Bou Lifa stands in the shade of an enormous jubube (Chinese date) tree. There are lots of paths leading off into the palmeraie along the irrigation canals. It's delightfully cool among all the vegetation.
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Café les Arcades
The open-air cafés stay busy till late in the night, especially during the summer months when the plastic tables in and around the souq area buzz with conversation. Café les Arcades is in the southwest corner of the souq. (Beer and alcohol are served at the restaurants and bars of all of the Zone Touristique hotels.)
reviewed
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Tozeur Market
Handy for a snack and very much a part of the Tozeur experience are the dates available in the market. The best dates are harvested in October, but you'll usually find something on offer throughout summer. For reasonable quality, expect to pay around TD3.5 per kilogram, although the best method is to taste before you buy.
reviewed
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Museum Archéologique et Traditionnel
The easiest entrance to the Ouled el-Hadef is from ave de Kairouan. Follow the signs pointing to the small Museum Archéologique et Traditionnel, which occupies the old koubba (small domed tomb) of Sidi Bou Aissa. It houses a small collection of local finds, costumes and displays on local culture.
reviewed
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Café de Dunes
Of course you can sip a tea, coffee or beer for that matter at most of the hotels out in the Zone Touristique, but it's also fun to hang out at the Café de Dunes, part of the Pegase outdoor activity centre, and watch the bustle when groups arrive and the calm after the storm.
reviewed
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Centre d'Animation Bedouin
This place, just past the Hotel Sahara Douz near Tej el-Khayem also offers the chance to eat in a Berber tent, though one done up for tourists, and puts on 'traditional dance' shows, though it's generally only used for large groups who book in advance.
reviewed
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Restaurant Le Soleil
An extensive menu with a couple of vegetarian dishes. The service is attentive and it's a good place to try camel steak because you generally don't have to pre-order it as in other restaurants. They also do pizzas and sandwiches.
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Bled el-Hader
The old quarter of Bled el-Hader is thought to be the site of ancient Thuzuros. The mosque in the main square dates from the 11th century, while the minaret (mosque tower) stands on the square base of an old Roman tower.
reviewed
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Restaurant Capitole
This small place is popular with Tunisian families but the service is slow and it's worth it to pre-order especially for the metabgha (Berber pizza; around TD3, pre-order only). Camel steak is also on the menu.
reviewed
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Café Ambaria
A cut above the rest in terms of décor and service, although again it's mostly all men. Sheesha cost around TD1.5 and they have a real live coffee machine if you're craving an espresso or cappuccino.
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