Restaurants in Tunisia
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A
Dar Bel Hadj
This is a grand traditional restaurant in a sumptuous 17th-century mansion, an extraordinary surprise after the medina's narrow streets. The food is delicious and recommended. Try the Tunisian mixed hors d'oeuvres and the brochettes de mérou (grouper kebabs). The restaurant's golf buggy will pick you up and drop you off from Place de Gouvernement in the evening.
reviewed
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B
Chez Nous
This feels like an Italian-American mobsters' haunt. It's in a snug back room and is nothing fancy, but the food is good and there are faded black-and-white photos of faded stars on the walls.
reviewed
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Restaurant-Pizzeria La Fontana
A few doors north at the start of the Zone Touristique, Restaurant-Pizzeria La Fontana serve quality pies.
reviewed
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C
Dar el-Jeld
This is special from the moment you knock on the grand bee-yellow arched doorway, which opens onto an elaborate 18th-century mansion - it's like stepping into a lavishly decorated jewellery box. The magnificent dining room is in a covered central courtyard, with secluded alcove tables around the edge.
A good way to start is with the mixed hors d'oeuvres, then try delicious traditional Tunisian dishes such as kabkabou (fish with tomatoes, capers and olives), all accompanied by the twanging tones of the resident elderly musician.
reviewed
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D
Planet Food
For homesick Americans, this Planet Hollywood imitator should do the trick. From the movie posters to the headshots of famous actors to the TVs playing movies and videos, Planet Food is all American. However, it's Tunisians who mostly come here, young people on dates and families enjoying the enormous menu at cheaper prices than the tourist traps. Pizzas, hamburgers, fish, chicken, salads, etc are served. Paella for two is delicious.
Until the kinks are worked out don't be surprised if the service is desultory.
reviewed
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Coffeehouses
There are plenty of outdoor places to enjoy a coffee, soft drink, mint tea or a sheesha (water pipe). Most popular in the evenings are the tables strewn around place des Martyrs in front of the Hôtel Sabra.
Just south of here near the intersection of ave Hamda Laaouani and ave de la République are two good coffeehouses: Café Belhadj and Café Amar.
Just north of the medina in front of Bab Tunis is the Café Les Soirées de L'Orient.
reviewed
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Tej el-Khayem
Whether you eat indoors, in a Berber style tent or out on the sand, Tej el-Khayem serves up some of the best meals in Douz. The à la carte menu includes all the standards but if you order in advance and/or are part of a large group you can experiment with camel (around TD12) or try the coucha agneau - a local speciality of meat cooked underground in gargoulette (pottery). Wine and beer are served and dancing and performances can be arranged in advance.
reviewed
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E
Caracas
One of the better places to eat in the city centre, frequented by young and hip Tunisians, Caracas is built to resemble some version of the Latin American city. Well, there are faux stone walls and colonial archways but it's a modern restaurant with TVs tuned to Arab language music videos. The eclectic menu has everything from pizza to deli sandwiches and Tunisian and western standards. The enormous chicken omelette is a meal unto itself.
reviewed
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F
Segni
Kairouan is famous for a date-filled semolina cake soaked in honey called makhroud, which can be found everywhere. Expect to pay 150 mills a piece. Segni is the best place to sample makhroud and other local specialties. Signed only in Arabic in the middle of the medina, Segni's interior is a wonderful example of a traditional medina shop.
reviewed
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G
Tontonville
This buzzing place has plain, no-nonsense décor, heavily curtained from the street, so punters can tuck into the alcohol on offer with impunity. It also has lots of good fish. The salade mechouia (grilled peppers and tomatoes with olive oil and garlic, served garnished with olives or tuna) that accompanies the dishes comes with a kick.
reviewed
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H
Al-Mazar
As befits a bar cunningly disguised as a restaurant, this is buzzing and convivial; lone women might find it intimidating. With paintings on the walls and big globe lampshades, you might think yourself in Paris. The food is excellent, with special mention going to the harissa (spicy chilli paste) and to the chocolate mousse.
reviewed
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Tozeur Market
Handy for a snack and very much a part of the Tozeur experience are the dates available in the market. The best dates are harvested in October, but you'll usually find something on offer throughout summer. For reasonable quality, expect to pay around TD3.5 per kilogram, although the best method is to taste before you buy.
reviewed
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I
Albatross
Just past Tip Top is the Albatross, another of the tourist-class restaurants that spend a great deal of attention on translating the menu and dressing the waiters in uniforms, and give at least a few nods in the direction of elegance, but that serve up unspectacular Tunisian and continental fare. Pizzas are good.
reviewed
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Du Peuple
The owner of this little medina restaurant has the tourist trade cornered and rightly so. Hearty meat and couscous dishes are served off an assembly line, and tea and watermelon come free with desert. It's a bright and pleasant spot just inside the medina walls next to the Hôtel de Paris.
reviewed
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J
Restaurante Les 3 Étoiles
This is a great little basic place with cheap-as-chips food - fill-you-up couscous or blow-your-top salade mechouia (grilled peppers and tomatoes with olive oil and garlic, served garnished with olives or tuna) - whirring fans, plastic tablecloths, and satisfied customers.
reviewed
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Saloon Steakhouse Grill & Disco Pub
If you've every wanted to eat on what appears to be the movie set for an American western in Tunisia, then this surreal restaurant around 2km from the Ville Nouvelle should not be missed. Hearty steaks are the deserved specialty though you have to pay extra for the custom sauces.
reviewed
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K
Le Malouf
If you fancy some pasta, this Italian-owned place is where to head. It's smart, with big artworks decorating the interior and courtyard tables out the front - a charming find in central Tunis. A guitar duo cranks up the atmosphere on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
reviewed
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L
Mahdaoui
Central and cheap, here the tables fill a narrow alley by the Zaytouna Mosque. The simple daily menu offers couscous, fish, chicken, lamb (sometimes half a head - yikes) and so on - greasy but pretty good. If you get here late there won't be much choice left.
reviewed
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La Croisette
The burgeoning lakeside Berges du Lac development is trendy and prices reflect this, but this popular salon de thé-restaurant has a lovely waterside setting, sells anything from ice cream and cakes to pizzas, and is surrounded by fairy lights.
reviewed
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M
Bolero
Tucked down a seedy alley, this cosy corner with red tablecloths and low lighting is favoured by Tunis businessmen, who retreat here for long lunches to peruse the long wine list. It specialises in grilled meats and seafood and prides itself on its paella.
reviewed
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Centre d'Animation Bedouin
This place, just past the Hotel Sahara Douz near Tej el-Khayem also offers the chance to eat in a Berber tent, though one done up for tourists, and puts on 'traditional dance' shows, though it's generally only used for large groups who book in advance.
reviewed
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Dodo Restaurant
This, the most modern of the medina restaurants, is a bit of a surprise. Surrounded by the clutter of commerce, the Dodo is a little bit of a refuge though it is expensive by medina standards. Pizza and Tunisian meat dishes are on the menu.
reviewed
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Patisserie Rabaoui Kairouan
Places to try Kairouan's famed date-filled semolina cake soaked in honey (called makhroud) include the outdoor stalls just off the main thoroughfare near the arch, or the brightly lit and modern Patisserie Rabaoui Kairouan.
reviewed
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Restaurant Le Soleil
An extensive menu with a couple of vegetarian dishes. The service is attentive and it's a good place to try camel steak because you generally don't have to pre-order it as in other restaurants. They also do pizzas and sandwiches.
reviewed
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O
Restaurant Marmite
Across from the Hôtel Residence Monia, this posh, at least as far as cost goes, restaurant serves up seafood and other Tunisian fare, plus wine. A marmite, by the way, in Tunisia is a large urn-shaped cooking pot.
reviewed