Top of the Mountain

Article by: Penny Laurence, April 2007

It's one of the only places in the world where tie-dye still does a roaring trade and ferrets walk around on leashes.

Begin a perfect day in Montreal by going to the Parc Jeanne-Mance (Avenue Mont Royal and Avenue du Parc) for a picnic in the sun. Kick back in the grass and enjoy the scenery - stylish houses border a vast expanse of green, friendly dogs snuffle through the undergrowth and packs of nubile men leap all over each other (oh yeah, that's gridiron practice).

And that ritual thumping in the background? No need to be alarmed. It's just the Tamtams. Every Sunday, a hippie wonderland blossoms at the base of Mont Royal, with drummers providing a soundtrack for ferals lost in the throes of interpretive dance. It's one of the only places in the world where tie-dye still does a roaring trade and ferrets walk around on leashes. Even cynics may find themselves overwhelmed by an urge to kick around a crocheted hacky sack or - yes - hug a tree.

Of course the perfect counter to any hippie urge is always a healthy serve of meat. When it's that time, head straight to Schwartz's Smoked Meats (3895 Boulevard St. Laurent) - it's a Montreal institution. A warning to the novice: the all-male staff, in their traditional kitchen whites, are always busy and always short on patience. The sandwiches (thick with greasy smoked meat) are worth the attitude, but you'll need to know exactly what you want to order and how to order it, or it'll be 'No smoked meat for you!' You also need to judge your fat factor just right: go light on the fat and the sandwich is too dry, too heavy and it'll slide right off your plate. Try this: 'One medium-fat smoked-meat sandwich with pickle, a cherry coke and a side order of fries.' The pickle here is no limp afterthought: it's served whole and resplendent on its own side plate.

A visit to Schwartz's is best followed by a bit of a walk amongst the cafes and boutiques on Boulevard St Laurent. Listen to some local music at Inbeat Record Store (3814 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) then stop in for an afternoon martini at Le Pistol (3723 Boulevard Saint-Laurent), where you can settle down in the open front windows for a spot of people-watching.

Le St Elizabeth may look like just another pub, but stroll inside and you'll discover what may just be the world's best terrasse.

By now it must be time for a sundowner, right? Le St Elizabeth (1412 Rue St Elizabeth), hidden away in a quiet side street, may look like just another pub, but stroll inside and you'll discover what may just be the world's best terrasse (beer garden). It's a spectacular sunken garden protected by high walls of vines, and it's jam-packed with eye candy. The chilled Boreal beer flows pretty freely, so it's easy to find a whole slew of new best friends.

Closing time at the pub? OK, time to top your perfect day with an incandescent moment. Head back to Mont Royal and begin the ascent. After all that Boreal you won't feel the ache in your calves or be scared by the skittering racoons. When you get to the top and look down at the flickering starscape of the city's lights, you'll be smitten all over again.