Riviera Dreaming - Budget vs Blow Out

Article by: Paula Hardy, June 2006

We all have a vision of a dream holiday. For me, it's relaxing on the Côte d'Azur in summer, with a balmy breeze and cypress trees framing the insanely picturesque coastal scene. I am in fact in a Cézanne painting, sans the summer crowds and the crazy prices, sunning myself by a glittering sea.

Sadly the purse strings don't stretch quite as far as my imagination. The Côte d'Azur is, for many, an expensive destination. So we've decided to put some energy into researching the ultimate guide to the Riviera, a combination of backpacking and flashpacking from which you can create your own budget or boutique holiday.

Biarritz

Hop off the international conveyor belt of the Mediterranean coastal resorts and try Biarritz, where you can witness the sweet absurdity of a French family enjoying their grandes vacances, complete with candy-striped beach huts, shrimping nets and yelping lap dogs.

Budget

It's not just the jeunesse dore'e who flock to Biarritz in summer. As one of Europe's best surf spots, it's a mecca for beach bums on a budget who camp or stay at one of the two excellent hostels, run by the Auberge de Jeunesse (www.hibiarritz.org; B&B €17.20). Biarritz's fabulous northern beaches, Grand Plage and Plage Miramar cater to lazy days of sea, salt and sand, while serious surfers will want to push on further north to Anglet.

When the whole coast goes into grandes vacances mode in August, the choice of off-beach amusements is overwhelming - quad biking, boat trips, sand sculpture and beachside bandstands, so come tea time, you'll want to put your feet up. Try an old fashioned salon like Maison Pariés (1 Place Bellevue; 5 59 22 07 52), and sample specialities like mouchous (Basque biscuits), kanougas (chocolate toffees) or macaroons.

Of course, like all good Riviera resorts, nightlife in Biarritz can be a pricey privilege, but the multitude of tapas bars are a budget godsend. Le Bar Jean (05 59 24 80 38; 5 Rue des Halles; tapas €15.00) is a great place in a top location. Then head for Blue Cargo (05 59 24 36 30; Villa Itsasoan, av Il'Barritz; admission free), where you can dance the night away on the open-air dance floor.

Blow Out

If your budget can stretch to €120.00 a night then there are some fabulous boutique beds in Biarritz, like the elegant Maison Garnier (www.hotel-biarritz.com) or Hôtel Ohartzia in chic St Jean de Luz.

With a fresh towel tucked under your arm you can trot down to your very own candy-striped bathing tent (€6.25 per day) for an idle day at the beach. Better still, jump in your hire car for one of the innumerable day trips you can take. Consider dropping in the Guéthary at the end of the afternoon for dinner at Heteroclito (05 59 54 98 92; 48 Chemin de la Plage; meals €30.00). Or drop in to Fontarrabie to graze on tapas and take a river trip across to Spain. Or cut to the chase and just head straight there for a whole day in uber-chic San Sebastian. But if you decide to stay this side of the river for dinner, try the fine food at pretty La Plancha (05 59 23 44 95; av Il'Barritz; meals €30.00-€40), right on the beach, then step into the white slab of Biarritz's Casino Municipal (1 av Édouard VII) to splash some cash.

Marseille

Seedy, salacious, sexy Marseille lies midway between the bourgeois beach life of Biarritz and the jaded glamour of the Côte d'Azur. It is the Med's largest port and was recently the recipient of a 650 million dollar regeneration programme. Despite the regeneration Marseille remains ça crain, a risky city.

Budget

Wake up to the breezy beach-house vibe of Le Richelieu (www.lerichelieu-marseille.com), or perhaps you'd prefer Hôtel St-Louis (www.hotel-st-louis.com), your very own pied-â-terre in town.

Either way you'll want to savour the homemade jam and freshly-baked bread at Le Goût de l'Enfance (6 Pl des Pistoles) before weaving through the pedestrianised streets of the historic Le Panier quarter, stopping by the Musée de la Mode (La Canebiére, 1er; admission €3.00) to contemplate French fashion trends.

Afterwards, you can stroll, cycle or rollerblade along the Corniche to the old fishing port of Vallon des Auffes. Treat yourself to a bouillabaisse there at Chez FonFon (04 91 52 14 38; 140 Vallon des Auffes; meals €40.00) or try the local couscous at La Femina (04 91 54 03 561; 1 rue Musée, 1er; meals €8.00-€15.00). In the afternoon join the canoodling on the beach at Le Catalan.

The only thing to do in the dusky pink of early evening is sip pastis at Bar de la Marine (15 Quai de Rive Neuve). In August you'll be able to make out the sails of this year's sailing race, the Tour de Voile (www.tourvoile.fr). As night falls on Marseille, the Vieux Port throbs with late-night bars. Further afield you'll find sultry clubs like L'Intermediaire (39 cours Julien; 19.00-02.00 Mon-Sat), Le Bistrot Plage (04 91 31 80 32; 60 Corniche Kennedy, 7e) and Living Room (10 Pl de la Joliette; 20.00-late Thu-Sat).

To get the most out of the sprawling city and its beaches invest in a Marseille City Pass (1-/2-day pass €18.00/€25.00), which gives you access to all the museums, guided tours and unlimited travel on all metro and bus services.

Blow Out

Nestled into the rocks above a petite cove and rock-ledge beach, Le Petit Nice-Passédat (www.petitnicepassedat.com) is the ultimate boutique hotel. They will lend you bicycles, help you rent a car or a boat, or organise a private chauffeur. Too much? Then try the cute-as-can-be Hôtel Lutetia (www.hotelmarseille.com).

Catch the early morning view from Notre Dame de la Garde. Then get a different view of the city from the back of a boat with a trip to pretty fishing village of Cassis. You can book them at Bartabas (06 09 52 09 98; 3 Quai du Port). On your return book yourself in for a traditional hammam (steam bath) at Bastide des Bains (www.bastide-des-bains.com).

After being thoroughly perfumed and pampered, glide over to La Caravelle at the Hôtel Bellevue (34 quai du Port; 19.00-02.00) to catch one of their legendary jazz sessions or just soak up the vibe on the spectacular portside balcony, before dinner a deux at Les Arcenaulx (04 91 54 85 38; 27 cours Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves, 1er; menu €30.00-€50.00).

Nice

Nice is oh so nice, not only because it's the Grand Dame of the Riviera but because its pleasures are truly democratic. It may be a haven for aging celebrities with big fat bank accounts but it also accommodates those on the most fraying shoestring budget.

Budget

You'll have a room with an enviable view if you check into the fabulous Villa Saint-Exupéry (www.vsaint.com). Okay so you'll have to hop on a bus to the centre of town but it's a small price to pay for such a stunning budget bed.

With Oliver Peoples shades artfully in place, head down to the Promenade des Anglais to soak up the rays in one of those free royal blue deckchairs or cruise the curve of the bay on some rented skates from Roller Station (49 quai des États-Unis'; €7.00 per day). Then lose yourself in the café-clad alleys and squares of Vieux Nice. On the seaward side, cours Saleya is the venue for one of the most vividly hued markets in southern France. Pick up a little amuses bouches here and then head on to the Parc du Château for some glittering seascapes.

After such an economic day you'll have some spare change for a little frivolity. Start with pastis at La Banane (6 rue de la Poissonnerie) and then dinner at the ridiculously picturesque La Table Alziari (04 93 80 34 03; 4 rue François Zanin; mains €8.00-€14.00), finishing up with all that jazz at Le Bar des Oiseaux (5 rue St-Vincent; Tue-Sat).

Blow Out

If you've got it, flaunt it and you'll certainly feel a little smug in your chic room at Villa la Tour (www.villa-la-tour.com) with its Fragonard Perfumery soaps and rooftop patio, where you'll undoubtedly be mopping up the last crumbs of your breakfast croissant.

You might like to indulge in a little flaneur fantasy and amble aimlessly among the lanes of Vieux Nice and maybe take in just a couple of masterpieces at the Musée Matisse (164 av des Arénes de Cimiez; admission €4.00). Or, you might like to tour the coast in style in a classic convertible. Le Road-Show (04 92 04 01 05; www.azur-roadshow.com) offers delectable packages including lunch at a gourmet restaurant and a detailed driving itinerary. St Paul de Vence and Cagnes-sur-Mer are both within easy reach.

Such a perfect day deserves a perfect evening aperitif at the hip bar at the Hôtel Beau Rivage (24 rue St-François de Paule), followed by an exquisitely romantic meal at Terres de Truffes (04 93 62 07 68; 11 rue St-François de Paule; mains €29.00-€40.00).