Carnaval, Carioca Style

Article by: Regis St. Louis, January 2007

While Carnaval is celebrated in many places throughout the world, Brazil arguably throws the best and biggest shindig. In Rio, much of the focus is on the colourful parades held in the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Sambadrome. There, each of 14 samba schools have their moment (actually 75 minutes) to dazzle audiences with giant mechanised floats surrounded by thousands of twirling dancers and heart-pounding drummers. All are competing for top honours in the annual competition. Although the parade is undeniably a spectacle, for many Cariocas (as the locals are called), it's just one small part of the celebration. There's quite a lot happening around town - and it's much more participatory if you don't happen to be marching in the parade.

Dancing in the Streets

One of the best ways to whoop it up with Cariocas is to join the bandas happening all over town in the days leading up to Carnaval. Bandas (also called blocos) are processions of drummers, vocalists and other assorted musicians, followed by anyone who wants to sing and dance through the streets. Samba, with its infectious and highly danceable beats, is the music of choice. There are drink sellers who accompany the group along the way - meaning you'll never go thirsty for ice-cold cerveja (beer) or caipirinhas (Brazil's signature cocktail of crushed limes, sugar and cachaça).

One of the most popular bandas is the Banda de Ipanema, which attracts a wildly diverse crowd complete with drag queens, fairy princesses, giant baby dolls and bare-skinned barbarians. All gather in the beachside neighbourhood for some early afternoon revelry. This one has been around since the 1960s and is a longtime Carioca favourite. The party begins on Praça General Osório in Ipanema at 4pm on Saturday February 17.

For a different scene, head to the bohemian enclave of Santa Teresa, home to the Bloco das Carmelitas. Named after the nearby Carmelite convent, this bloco encourages participants to dress up as nuns - preferably in bright yellow habits. It's highly rated by Cariocas, and it's good fun to party along the cobbled streets of one of Rio's most enchanting neighbourhoods. It happens on the Ladeira de Santa Teresa (take the second tram stop in Santa Teresa) at 6pm on Friday, February 16.

Other free and democratic events happening about town include the nightly concerts on Praça Floriano in Centro (Feb 16-20, 5pm-3am every night) and the nonstop party scene in Lapa - free concerts and much merry making at the Rio Folia (held in front of the Arcos de Lapa, Feb 16-20 from 8pm onwards). Nearby are some of Rio's best samba clubs, including Carioca da Gema (79 Av Mem de Sá), Democráticus (91 Rua do Riachuelo) and Rio Scenarium (20 Rua do Lavradio), which throw special Carnaval parties and are all photogenic places to catch the local music and dance scene.

The Banda de Ipanema attracts a wildly diverse crowd complete with drag queens, fairy princesses, giant baby dolls and bare-skinned barbarians.

Join the Parade

The big parades take place on Sunday and Monday (Feb 18-19), starting at 9pm and ending just after dawn. Most Cariocas have a favourite school with particular colours (like pink and green for the ever-popular Mangueira samba school). Tickets can be purchased from travel agents after you arrive in town and cost US$50 and up. If you can't decide whether or not to attend, there's still time to sign up and join the parade. All it takes is cash for your costume and a willingness to strut your stuff among other costumed dancers before an audience of 30,000 (plus a million or so watching on TV). There are numerous websites (like www.rio-carnival.net) where you can buy a costume online. Many hotels and travel agents in Rio can also make the arrangements if you let them know you're interested. Costumes run from US$300 to US$700.

Where to Stow Your Bags

Many hotels are already booked, but there are other options. Good rental agencies (www.rioapartments.com and www.BlameItonRio4Travel.com) have extensive lists of one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, and they can usually scrounge you up something in a hurry. Rio also has a growing number of hostels if you're travelling on a shoestring (try www.hostels.com ). If you show up without a reservation, head over to Rio's main tourist office (9th floor, 10 Rua Assembléia, Centro; www.riotur.com), where staff can call around for you and help you get a room.