Oxford's Secrets

Article by: Etain O'Carroll, December 2007

Former student and resident Philip Pullman drew heavily on the city and its crowded history to weave together the tales of Lyra in the His Dark Materials trilogy. Pullman's alma mater, Exeter College, was the inspiration for fictional Jordan College; Lyra and Will say their last goodbye on a bench in the Botanic Garden; and the Bodley, or the Bodleian Library, is one of the city's most famous institutions.

Lyra and her daemon were not the city's first otherworldly creations, however; generations of fantasy writers have drawn on Oxford's ancient buildings, odd artefacts and brilliant but eccentric minds. Hobbits, wizards, wardrobes, muggles and a certain White Rabbit all began or ended up here, and even today the University retains a definite air of mystery. Its finest buildings, quietest quads and oldest libraries are jealously guarded, and access for visitors is strictly controlled.

The Pitt Rivers Museum

Parks Road; tel: 01865 270 927; Mon 12pm-4:30pm, Tue-Sun 10am-4:30pm

In the half-light of this otherworldly place, creaky glass cases crawling with weird and wonderful artefacts are crammed into a tiered gallery.

This higgledy-piggledy trove of Victorian explorers' booty explains ancient rituals to protect the dead, beliefs in the afterlife, tribal divination and myths and rituals from around the globe. You'll find blowpipes, magic charms, mummified cats, necklaces of teeth and ceremonial masks, as well as the eerie trepanned heads that Lyra discovers when she visits.

Fittingly enough, these Tardis rooms are hidden away at the back of the University Museum, making their discovery all the more of an adventure. Delve in, discover your very own alethiometer and dream up the next tale of faraway worlds.

The Upper Library, Merton College

Merton Street; tel: 01865 276 310 Mon-Fri 2-4pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

Further inspiration can be found at Merton, one of Oxford's original three colleges. Founded in 1264, it has a 13th-century library still in use today and is home to over 300 medieval manuscripts and a priceless collection of early printed books.

J.R.R. Tolkien, master of fantasy, was a professor of English at Merton, and his love of Anglo-Saxon, Middle English and Old Norse languages was fostered by the library collection. When not teaching, he spent his time poring over the ancient manuscripts and completing the Lord of the Rings.

The oldest part, the Upper Library, was built in 1373 and improved in the 16th century when the original book chests and lecterns were removed and replaced by book shelves - some of the very first used in England.

The Eagle and Child

49 St Giles; tel: 01865 302 925; Mon-Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun 12pm-10:30pm

Another favourite haunt of Tolkien was the Eagle and Child (known locally as the Bird and Baby), one of Oxford's most famous watering holes. The Bird hosted the Tuesday morning meetings of The Inklings, an informal literary discussion group that included Tolkien and his contemporary CS Lewis.

The group met regularly in the Rabbit Room but, contrary to popular opinion, did not discuss their work or read extracts from it here. This usually happened in Lewis' rooms at Magdalen. You can, however, sit in their favourite nook, sip on a pint, take out your notebook and start writing that best seller.

In later life, Lewis lived in the Oxford suburb of Headington, in a house known as the Kilns, where he accommodated wartime evacuees. One of them was fascinated by a wardrobe in one room and asked what lay behind it, thus sewing the seeds of another great story.

Christ Church

St. Aldates; tel: 01865 276 492; Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm

Well before Tolkien and Lewis made their mark on Oxford's literary scene, Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll) came to Christ Church, Oxford's largest and grandest college. He stayed 47 years and used the college and its characters as inspiration for his writing. His classic, Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, began life when the Dean's daughter, Alice, asked to be entertained while out boating one day.

In the magnificent Great Hall (used as Hogwarts' hall in the Harry Potter films) look in the panelling behind the High Table for a hidden door, behind which lies a spiral staircase, said to be the inspiration for Carroll's rabbit hole. The Dean, renowned for being late, often used it to get to dinner. Here too are the long-necked firedogs that prompted Alice's elongated neck, and the portrait of Henry VIII which gave rise to the Queen of Hearts and her fondness for saying 'Off with his head'.

Jericho

It's easy to assume that Oxford University is Oxford, but beyond the dreaming spires lies a working city with a rich industrial heritage. This other world has not been forgotten by the city's writers and Jericho, a former workaday enclave, features heavily in Pullman's work. It's now a boho area of bars, restaurants, delis and design shops but you'll easily find the canals and narrowboats that inspired tales of the Gyptians, 'the great square-towered oratory of St Barnabas the Chymist' where Lyra came to look for kidnapped Billy Costa, and real life Juxton Street, where she went in search of the Alchemist.

When you're done ticking off the literary locations, it's also the best spot in town to eat out, sip cocktails and watch the city's high-brow intellectuals and real-life Gyptians meet.