Nicaragua's Corn Islands

Article by: Regis St. Louis, August 2007

The land of volcanoes, poets and revolutionaries, Nicaragua has many natural and cultural wonders, but just a fraction of the visitors that flock to neighbouring Costa Rica. Where's the justice? For unlike its more popular sister, Nicaragua also has Caribbean Islands, the Islas del Maíz: two enchanting islands ringed with white-sand beaches, coral reefs, luminous seas and all the postcard perfection of other Caribbean destinations, but without the hype.

The larger of the two, Big Corn (6 sq km) has a wider variety of accommodation and restaurants, along with a few ramshackle reggae bars and the settlement of Brig Bay. To reach the island's prettiest and most secluded beaches, explore its east side.

Known locally as 'La Isleta', Little Corn Island (1.5 sq km) is thickly jungled at its heart, with marvellous deserted beaches. The absence of motor vehicles adds to the tranquillity. For fantastic 360-degree views over the forest, climb the tower that sits, surrounded by mango trees, in the centre of the island.

Diving

Get close up with some 40 species of coral, as well as parrot fish, sea turtles, barracuda, eagle rays and sharks.

There are superb diving and snorkelling sites around both islands. Get close up with some 40 species of coral, as well as parrot fish, sea turtles, barracuda, eagle rays and sharks. Most dive sites are fairly shallow (under 30 metres) with visibility between 30 and 50 metres. There's also great cave diving off Little Corn's eastern shore. Dive Little Corn and Nautilus, on Big Corn, offer diving trips and PADI-certification courses.

Rooms with a view

A bungalow at Dereck's, Little Corn Island

There's some excellent value accommodation on the islands, with an impressive number of thatched-roof bungalows just steps from the sea. La Princesa de la Isla (doubles from US$45), on Big Corn's secluded Waula Point, has large, attractive rooms with wood detailing, and you can rent canoes and snorkel gear (handy for exploring the coral reef out front). There's no shortage of charming options on Little Corn, either. On the island's isolated northeastern tip, Derek's Place (doubles from US$25) is a backpacker favourite with attractive but rustic bamboo huts. Hidden in the forest a few hundred metres north is Ensueños (doubles US$25-50), which has wildly eclectic bungalows made of found materials. The island's comfiest accommodation is at Casa Iguana (doubles from US$25-80), an ecolodge perched on a cliff with enviable sea views. From here you can arrange fishing trips or rent kayaks and snorkel gear. Book well in advance.

Dining island-style

For fantastic 360-degree views over the forest, climb the tower that sits, surrounded by mango trees, in the centre of the island.

As is usual in the Caribbean, you'll have ample time to linger over the view at the islands' seaside restaurants: service is none too brisk. Seva's, toward the northeast corner of Big Corn, serves some of the best dishes on the island. For seafood dishes, order a day in advance: that way Seva can pick up fresh catch from the fishermen in the morning. The restaurant faces one of Big Corn's best snorkelling beaches.

On Little Corn, Habana Libra specialises in Cuban classics (try the slow-roast pork) as well as fighting-fresh seafood. Farm Peace & Love serves delicious three-course Italian meals (with Caribbean accents) for US$15 per person. Order 24 hours in advance.

Getting there

Both Atlantic Airlines (tel: 505 575 5055) and La Costeña (tel: 505 575 5131) offer daily flights between Managua and Big Corn Island for around US$180 return. Travellers with more time on their hands and a thirst for the rugged route can catch a bus from Managua to El Rama, take a boat from there down the Río Escondido to the Caribbean port town of Bluefields, and from there, hop a boat (which currently runs on Wednesdays and Fridays) out to Big Corn. You can also catch a flight between Bluefields and Big Corn. Boats from Big Corn to Little Corn (40 minutes) leave daily around 10am, returning at 4.30pm. It's often a rough ride; try to snag a seat in back.

Getting around

While Big Corn is certainly walkable, the blazing sun may tucker you out a little. Bicycle is perhaps the best way to get around. You can hire them at Nautilus for around US$10 per day. You can also get around on the cheap by collective taxi (US$1-2), advisable at night, or by bus (US$0.40), which blasts reggae while bumping around the island, following a counterclockwise route. On tiny Little Corn, you'll be hoofing it; there are only the beach and tiny dirt trails through forest to get around on.

Side trip

If you're looking for a bit more adventure, arrange a stopover in Bluefields en route to the islands. This gritty port town isn't the prettiest place in Nicaragua, but it's a wild melange of Creole and indigenous Miskito, Myangna and Rama people. You'll also find some fantastic and inexpensive seafood restaurants serving rondo, a one-pot meal with seasoned fish, lobster or shrimp served atop plantains, vegetables and coconut milk. More importantly, Bluefields is the gateway to the Laguna de Perlas, an area of indigenous fishing communities scattered around a huge lagoon some 80km north of Bluefields. Few travellers venture here; this is off-the-beaten-path travel at its finest.

Useful advice

There are no ATMs out on the islands, so be sure to bring an adequate amount of cash with you. Although there's now a police presence on the islands, there have been robberies in the past, so keep an eye on your stuff and use common sense. For the latest lowdown on the Corn Islands, including accommodation, activities and island history, visit www.bigcornisland.com.