I (Almost) Ran Iran

Tyler MacNiven sets off on his run across Iran

Article by: Tyler MacNiven, April 2007

A wreath from the Qazvin city Mayor

But let me back up a bit. In 2004 I fell in love with a Japanese woman and thought that a good way to impress her would be to walk the length of her home country. Not only did I impress her so much she moved to San Francisco with me, I also became great friends with Japan.

On a whim, I decided to try out for CBS's television show The Amazing Race. Against steep odds I made it into the race and, with a partner, crossed the finish line first, winning an embarrassingly large amount of prize money. Shortly after the race my longtime Iranian-American friend, Bobak, asked me if I wanted to go to Iran with him to visit the land where his parents were born. 'Sure', I said, 'but why don't we really see the country up close. How about if we run it?' After walking Japan I knew that travelling on foot is the best way to experience a country.

Why don't we really see the country up close. How about if we run it?

Most Americans see Iran as dangerously anti-American; led by a confrontational president who dreams of our demise. Bobak and his family have always told me of the kindness of Iranians, as well as the country's cultural richness and scenic majesty. Running through Iran would allow me to bring a message of friendship and understanding to the Iranian people. Also, when it was over I'd be able to say, 'I Ran Iran'.

I landed in Tehran in November 2006 with a ludicrously short tourist visa, but at least I was in. Bobak had been in Tehran weeks ago to secure the visa for me but we needed more time and government support to make it work. Bobak picked me up at the airport at 3am and we drove to an all-night diner featuring cow tongues and eyeballs served four ways: fricasseed, fried, boiled and baked. Yum! The tongue was surprisingly tasty, but I assure you there's no easy way to swallow a watchful eyeball.

On the road in Iran

Our first problem was how to get permission to run from the Caspian Sea to the Persian Gulf. My tourist visa required that I stick to the usual itinerary of major cities and tourist sites. My plan was to veer away from the typical five-days-and-four-nights. I was there to run the open road, and since my mission was a peaceful one, I was sure the government men would see it my way. And they did. Sort of.

Tehran is a traffic-choked metropolis with one foot firmly anchored in the new millennium and one stuck two millennia ago. Every day for the first two weeks Bobak and I went from meeting to meeting, until finally we made friends with folks at the Physical Education Organization. The PEO of Iran enthusiastically endorsed our adventure, jumping at the opportunity to help. They even insisted they pay for our drivers, hotels and meals across the entire country. They believed in our message of friendship and agreed to take full responsibility for us.

I was there to run the open road, and since my mission was a peaceful one, I was sure the government men would see it my way.

We drove up to the Caspian Sea and checked into a grand hotel, where we feasted on honey and cardamom-glazed chicken over rice with sweet mulberries. The following day, a five-car police escort and, curiously, an ambulance, took us to the shore. A local running club in matching outfits and a television crew were waiting in the rain. Just before a symbolic splash in the water, the TV reporter asked if I thought Iran should be allowed to pursue nuclear energy. Ever the diplomat, and wanting to please the friendly crowd, I said, 'As long as nuclear energy is for peaceful reasons, why not?' I turned with my new friends, and together, we ran a good 12 miles.

That night we huddled around a TV, excited to see ourselves running arm in arm with Iranians, promoting friendship and understanding. The newscaster turned to the camera and said, 'An American is running the length of Iran in support of Iran's nuclear power program. Behind me were large banners written in English proclaiming: …Nuclear Energy is Iran's Obvious Right.' My heart dropped. Where had those banners come from? That wasn't what I meant at all! I don't have an energy policy. I don't even have a foreign policy. I just wanted to make friends. I realized then that I needed to steer clear of any political position.

Over the next few days we enjoyed smooth running beneath jagged, snow-capped mountains and through thick evergreen forests. Having seen us on Iranian national TV, people often waved, wished us well and stopped us to offer hot tea and dates.

The Physical Education Organisation of Iran joins in

On Day Six we ran into the city of Qazvin. We were greeted with a police escort and a large group of local runners, who jogged three miles with us into the town centre. Several giant banners welcomed us and the city mayor emerged from the crowd to festoon us with large flower wreaths. The crowd grew hushed as a TV reporter asked loudly, 'What do you think of nuclear energy in Iran?' I told him that Bobak and I were running for friendship and understanding between Iranians and Americans, and that we were not running for political reasons. There was a stir in the crowd, and the reporter seemed confused. I waved goodbye before being escorted to our next lavish marble hotel.

That night we received a call from the President's office ordering our immediate return to Tehran to await further instructions. I figured that a simmering tug of war between our supporters and a faction in the government who had tried to keep us out had gone against us. I had hoped to stay (even on a guided path) for a few more days, but they put us on the next stagecoach out of Dodge. The following day, Bobak and I found ourselves in Amsterdam, having traded a vista of head scarves and laden donkeys for ladies of the night, who winked at us from windows and river barges.

I didn't go to Iran to become involved in politics, but somehow, naively perhaps, I did. But, as promised, the people I met were thoughtful and surprisingly affectionate towards Americans.

I am currently working with the PEO to return to Iran and finish the run. The road calls.