Have Flak Jacket, Will Travel

Article by: Michael Kohn, January 2007

If these ideas strike you as slightly insane, don't worry: you're in the majority. Yet out on the fringes of our traveller community there exists a clique of gonzo-tourists ready to risk it all for a chance to visit some of the most dangerous places in the world. You may have met one in a guesthouse someplace, holding forth with stories about a dicey trek across Kashmir, a corkscrew flight to Baghdad or a hair-raising bus journey across Pakistan's tribal areas.

There is a certain level of nuttiness or naiveté involved in such travel, but for the uninitiated there are advantages: few tourist crowds, rushes of adrenalin and, ultimately, bragging rights. Disadvantages include life endangerment, high costs and bureaucratic hurdles. Visas to unstable countries can be difficult to attain and prices skyrocket when you figure in the costs of bodyguards and secure hotels (at last check, the dumpy Al-Rashid hotel in Baghdad was charging US$240 a night).

I wasn't talking just a couple of hours of gentle stretching - I wanted to live and breathe yoga for at least a week

Some save money by sneaking across borders and sleeping in villages (read Danziger's Travels or The Places in Between for tips), but bribe money and a comprehensive life-insurance plan will always bump up the price.

In truth, a lot of places we think of as dangerous are much safer than the mainstream media would have us believe. Colombia, for example, has a dismal reputation for security, although that's changing fast - much of the country is now safe and easily visited.

The following is a list of countries you might consider visiting. Just don't tell your mum you're going there.

Iraqi Kurdistan

While the rest of the country is totally off-limits, a trickle of travellers have visited northern Iraq's Kurdish region. New hotels are springing up and Irbil's tiny airport is undergoing a multi-million dollar upgrade to handle more air traffic. Why go? Iraqi Kurdistan is an epic landscape of rugged mountains and cool lakes. In Irbil you can explore bustling markets and the citadel, an enormous fort that has been continuously inhabited for thousands of years. Visas are available at the border.

Visit the Iraq branch of the Thorn Tree.

The Palestinian Territories

The only thing standing between you and a visit to the West Bank is a concrete barrier, a checkpoint and a teenage Israeli soldier with an itchy trigger finger. With a passport and a smile, you'll probably be waved right through! Bethlehem and Jericho are fairly routine tourist destinations, but put a little more thought into visiting Hebron or Nablus. Security has been particularly bad since the summer of 2006 but both cities are rich in culture and worth a visit if the security situation allows. Gaza is unfortunately out of bounds to casual travellers.

Read traveller posts on the Palestinian Territories here.

Afghanistan

War-torn Afghanistan still offers a number of attractions, starting with the bustling markets of Herat, the turquoise lakes at Band-e-Amir, the Buddha-niches at Bamiyan and the occasional buzkashi (goat polo) match held in winter. Southern Afghanistan is not advisable (that whole spring offensive thing has put a damper on travel plans). Visas aren't too hard to get - they're available in Peshawar - but some Afghan embassies require letters of support from an employer.

See what do others have to say about Afghanistan.

The wild mountain scenery and tiny hamlets that dot the north Caucuses are a stunning nest of outlaws, rebel fighters and Russian cadets praying for a post transfer.

Sudan

The Sudanese government willfully discourages travel; you'll need some contacts to help you through the visa and registration hassles. But once you're on the ground, the Sudanese people prove themselves to be extraordinarily friendly. While much of the country remains embroiled in conflict, it's perfectly OK to visit the capital, Khartoum, as well as Port Sudan and the spectacular Meroe Sites, a collection of crumbling pyramids surrounded by windswept desert.

Have you been to Sudan? You can add your comments here.

Chechnya

The wild mountain scenery and tiny hamlets that dot the north Caucuses are a stunning nest of outlaws, rebel fighters and Russian cadets praying for a post transfer. Despite the highly volatile state of affairs, Chechnya's Prime Minister Ramzan Kadyrov (a former warlord) seems to think his province would make a great skiing destination for Europeans tired of crowded slopes and long lift lines. Apres-ski events include small-arms fire and tank joy rides.

What do you think of Chechnya? Tell us.

Haiti

While not quite the Caribbean dream getaway, Haiti still entrances with its charming rural towns and deeply spiritual people. Political stability, however, has never been Haiti's forte. Violent demonstrations and general lawlessness have plagued the country since, well, forever. But common sense and thorough planning should allow you to avoid the trouble spots.

Get more views on Haiti.

The only thing standing between you and a visit to the West Bank is a concrete barrier, a checkpoint and a teenage Israeli soldier with an itchy trigger finger.

Somalia

Somaliland (in northern Somalia) is worth considering for some seriously off-beat travel. Although this region of the country is reasonably secure, local authorities still insist that you travel with an armed guard. As for the rest of the country, plan on saving it for the last of your travels - you might not make to any other destinations on this list! If you do reach Mogadishu, bring plenty of cash - the per-day charge for an armed gang of bodyguards can run into the hundreds of dollars.

Visit the Somalia branch of the Thorn Tree.