Ghengis Khan Rides Again

Traditional dress

Article by: Michael Kohn, June 2006

Ghengis Khan may be famed for his skills as a warrior and conqueror, but this summer in Mongolia he'll lay down his crossbow, dust off his guitar and turn up the bass.

The 'Ghengis Khan Rock Opera', unlikely as it may sound, is just one of many tributes planned this year for the great 13th century Mongol warlord. The event comes on a special occasion - the 800 year anniversary of the founding of the Mongol State by Ghengis himself.

By the shores of the Blue Lake in central Mongolia he crowned himself 'The Ruler of All Those Who Live in Felt Tents.'

It was in the year 1206 that Ghengis Khan (better known in these parts at Chingis Khan), ended a 25-year civil war and unified the state. By the shores of the Blue Lake in central Mongolia he crowned himself 'The Ruler of All Those Who Live in Felt Tents.' Over the next twenty years he forged an empire that stretched from the Pacific Ocean to the Caspian Sea.

Eight hundred years on, modern Mongolia is a much smaller place, occupying a swath of steppeland in northern Asia, sandwiched between China and Russia. But the proud descendants of Chingis have never forgotten their legendary past, and still speak of great battles in far off lands as if they had occurred in recent years, rather than centuries ago.

Mongolia Archer

Chingis Khan's rock star status in Mongolia is everywhere. You can see the cat-eyed, wispy-bearded warrior on paper money, vodka bottles and T-shirts, so it's no surprise that this year the Mongols are going all out celebrate his exploits. This means bonus points for the traveller planning a visit to Mongolia in the summer of 2006.

Your first indication of big developments is at Ulaanbaatar's Sukhbaatar Square where the Capital Building is being renovated. On completion it will include a massive colonnaded portal complete with huge statues of Chingis, Ogodei and Khublai. Officials hope construction will finish in time for Naadam, the national holiday, though it might take more than a Mongol horde to get the project done in time.

A look through a Mongolian 2006 events calendar shows a veritable roll call of activities associated with Chingis and his merry men. Cultural shows, festivals and commemoration ceremonies are scheduled through most of the year, although most of the action is during July and August, the height of summer.

If you miss the Rock Opera, second best would be the 'Ghengis Khan Cavalry' historical show, which features 500 men, in period costume, on horseback, charging across the steppe for a two-hour mock battle.

If you miss the Rock Opera, second best would be the 'Ghengis Khan Cavalry' historical show, which features 500 men, in period costume, on horseback, charging across the steppe for a two-hour mock battle. The extravaganza will be staged on the open steppe in the county of Sergelen, about one hour by jeep from the capital. It will run four times a week from 10 July through August.

Mongolia's biggest tourist event is the annual Naadam Sports Festival (11-13 July) featuring wrestling, horse riding and archery. In honour of the anniversary year a special concert will feature 800 horsehead fiddle players and 800 long song singers.

What is shaping up to be the most authentic event is a horse relay from Chingis Khan's homeland, Khentii Province, to the ancient capital of Karakorum. The relay harks back to the days of the great Mongol empire, when horse messengers carried documents across the Asian landmass at lightning speeds. This summer's relay will cover 600km in just 48 hours. Festivities begin 2 August in Dadal Soum, Chingis' birthplace, where the first rider will accept a sample of soil and water from the homeland. The final rider will gallop into the ruins of Karakorum, and even more festivities, on 4 August.

Traditional dress

A good way to experience the 800-year hoopla would be to start in Khentii at the end of July, exploring a few of the sites associated with ancient Mongolia. Many tour companies in Ulaanbaatar organise horse treks in the area or you can try organising your own expedition, using horses from a local. (US$100 a horse should cover it).

Expedition complete, make your way to Dadal, in time for the start of the horse relay. Then hop in a jeep and go overland to Karakorum to see the last rider charge into the ancient capital. From Karakorum it's possible to continue your Mongolian adventures into the Khangai Mountains or up to beautiful Lake Khövsgöl.

The 'Ghengis Khan Rock Opera', unlikely as it may sound, is just one of many tributes planned this year for the great 13th century Mongol warlord.

If you've decided 2006 is your year to visit Mongolia, hop to it and start booking in advance. Flights and trains into and out of the country are filling up fast and many dates are already booked out for the summer tourist season. Alternatively, take local trains from Beijing to the Mongolian border, cross by bus, and continue to Ulaanbaatar on local trains. It may sound like arduous travel, but if the Mongol hordes could conquer half the known world by horseback, anything is possible.

Also see: www.mongoliatourism.gov.mn Official tourist website www.mongolianmatters.com blog with news and information

Logistics: Ulaanbaatar is more developed than you might expect. There are internet cafes on every block, loads of international restaurants, travel agents and traffic jams. For camping equipment, try Seven Summits (tel: 9914 8801), located in the strip of shops opposite the Central Post Office.

Transport: Mongolia is connected by air to Beijing, Seoul, Tokyo, Moscow and Berlin. A charter flight this year will depart from Milan. Planes touch down at the newly named Chingis Khan International Airport. Overland travellers can cross the border from China at Erian, which is opposite the Mongolian border town of Zamyn-Uud. Other border crossings with China are closed to foreigners. If you are in Russia, it's possible to cross Bayan Olgii in western Mongolia, Altanbulag in northern Mongolia or Erdeentsav in eastern Mongolia.

Visas: Israeli citizens can stay in Mongolia visa free for 30 days. Hong Kong and Singapore citizens can stay visa free for 14 days. US citizens can stay visa free for 90 days. Holders of most other passports from Western countries can get a 30 day visa at a Mongolian consulate or embassy.

Costs: The daily costs of staying in Ulaanbaatar or other towns can be pretty low. Guesthouses charge around US$5 a night while double rooms in a half-decent hotel start at US$25. Food is reasonably priced. A meal at a local cafe is less than US$2. Better restaurants charge around US$4-6. Your major cost will be hiring a jeep and driver for a trip the countryside. This will start at around US$30 a day per person. When you add in a guide, food, stays at ger camps and horse riding, the price goes up to US$60 a day.

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Culture • Festivals & Events • Mongolia

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