Article by: Nicola Williams, January 2008
France or Switzerland sucked away all your cash and with it, your chance of a week on the mountain? Don't despair. Piste action is never cheap, but if you hang out at the smaller ski resorts the costs can be manageable.
Take Sunday. Admittedly I wasn't shooting adrenaline on Val d'Isère's Olympic La Face or quaffing cocktails with the chi-chi set in Verbier. But I did ski all day for €15.80 (US$23.50), eat a crêpe up the mountain for €2.90 (US$4.30) and invest just €20 (US$29.50) from my piggybank in ski hire.
Most stations familiales (family resorts) cater to a more local than international crowd, meaning it's never too late to book.
Small stations familiales (family resorts) are a dime a dozen in France and Switzerland and lure more skiers without kids than with. Most cater to a more local than international crowd, meaning it's never too late to book - accommodation is almost always available and, as the ski season moves towards late March and early April, you can pick up some fantastic bargains.
Self-catering is the budget way to go. Unless you're a big group, forget chalet accommodation or, mon dieu, that Brit-targeted concept of catered chalets. The French way of ski-swanking on the cheap is to stuff as many as allowed in an apartment scarcely large enough to swing a pole in - pray you're not part of the pair billetted to the sofa bed. When booking, bear in mind that 'two-room apartment' translates as one bedroom with kitchen-dining room-lounge; 'three-room' means two bedrooms etc. Ski resort tourist offices have updated lists of self-catering accommodation and many run an accommodation booking service - handy for those with no local lingo to speak of.
Swiss apartments include fondue and raclette sets in the kitchen, but in France you'll need to nip to the local fromagerie. Buy three hunks of local Comté, Beaufort and Gruyère to bubble up in the pot or several dozen slices of raclette to melt over potatoes and the fromager will lend you a pot or machine for free. Don't forget the local vin de pays or vin de table (table wine) - cheap as chips.
Photographs are rarely needed on ski passes, meaning gourmets who lunch to 4pm and night owls in bed till noon can feasibly share them.
Before hitting the slopes, tot up how much everyone in your party will really ski. Photographs are rarely needed on ski passes, meaning gourmets who lunch to 4pm and night owls in bed till noon can feasibly share them. In Switzerland generous ski-pass discounts for kids suddenly render top resorts like Zermatt (under 9s free, under 16s free on Saturday) surprisingly affordable for families.
Finally, know what your own health insurance covers before hiring kit and purchasing passes. Punters are routinely offered insurance to cover things like ski loss or theft and emergency mountain rescue, but if your insurance already covers such things you can save a bit of cash.
The oldest secret in the cent-saver book: pitch base camp lower down the mountain and ride the cable car in style to the glittering real estate above.
A secret most know, Les Gets (1172m) is a traditional back door to the vast Portes du Soleil ski area on the French-Swiss border. The tourist office (tel: 04 50 75 80 80) near the ice rink on the village square runs an accommodation booking service. It's also handily close to Paul Gourmand (tel: 04 50 79 79 78; place de la Mairie), the finest of sausage-and-cheese shops, if you have a fancy for air-dried donkey or wild boar.
The serenity of St-Martin, a très belle cluster of age-old wood and stone at 1450m, belies its location in the world's largest linked ski area, France's Trois Vallées (Three Valleys). But beware: unlike Les Gets, which knows what après ski is all about, this village sleeps soon after dark. Alternative: Brides-les-Bains, all out to wed the 'smart low-cost skier' at 600m with a gondola straight to Méribel.
The picture of a Swiss red train chugging through a fairytale scene of snow-caked chalets and pines will stay with you long after the tan has gone. An affordable alternative to the glitz of St-Moritz in the Upper Engadine, the valley's lower end is prettier and lies in Switzerland's only national park. Scuol has snow-set thermal baths to splash in off-piste, and the pinprick villages of Ftan, Sent and Guarda, with their sgraffito-painted houses and dairy farms, are wholly traditional.
Singles scoop a deal at this quaint Swiss village, which sits at 1300m in the Vaudois Alps and is weekend-break distance from Geneva. Not only is the resort good value, but 'alpine dating' weekends ensure a flurry of cultural events. Slopes are ideal for intermediates (free ski passes for under 9s) and reward with panoramas of Lake Geneva and Mont Blanc. Les Diablerets, next door, is where hard-core skiers cut edge on glacial snow at 3000m.
A bijou ski area in France's Brevon Valley, Hirmentaz has 24 largely intermediate slopes that cruise down the hillside from 1607m to 1100m. From the top of the bigger chairlift there are grand views of Lake Geneva. The lakeside retreat of Évian-les-Bains (where Swiss bankers and English high society hob-nobbed over mineral water in the 18th century) is only 35km north of here. It's a quintessential station familiale that few outside the French region of Haute-Savoie know.
France • Skiing & Snowboarding • Switzerland
More from Lonely Planet's Travel Guide:
Overview • When to go • Sights • Money & Costs • Getting there & around • History
More from Lonely Planet's Travel Guide:
Overview • When to go • Sights • Money & Costs • Getting there & around • History
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