Article by: Sarah Andrews, May 2007
Two-wheeling it through Spain's most cosmopolitan city can be sheer bliss - if you manage to dodge the dog poo.
Everyone who's spent time in Barcelona has their own version of the perfect afternoon. Mine goes like this: I grab a bike and coast along the city's seaside promenade, with salty wind in my hair, sun on my shoulders and the freedom to make pit stops at as many beach-side cafes as I like. Afterward, I ride back toward the old city and explore the maze of streets and plazas of the Barri Gótic (Gothic Quarter). I end the afternoon with a drink at a dimly lit terrace bar. Life doesn't get much better than that.
Not so long ago, riding a bike in Barcelona was taking your life into your own hands. Motorcyclists haphazardly cut across lanes, cars double parked and drivers with southern European behind-the-wheel habits made for a rather hostile cycling environment. Times are changing. Barcelona's still no Amsterdam, but bike culture is growing fast. The best place for a ride is along the well-marked bike lanes by the sea, which lead to the medieval streets of the old city, past busy ports and down to beaches. If you're willing to brave traffic and tackle a few hills, you can criss-cross the city, and there are many more bike lanes in the works.
Barcelona's still no Amsterdam, but bike culture is growing fast.
Barcelona, like many other cities across Europe, is supporting pedal power in a big way. Eager to reduce traffic and pollution, it sees bikes as a near-perfect solution. With the launch of Bicing it has gone one step further by providing a public bike service. Joining Lyon, Oslo, Stockholm, Vienna, Brussels and soon Paris, Barcelona offers almost-free bikes throughout the city. Users can pick up a bright red-and-white bike in one station, use it for up to two hours and return it to any other station in the city. As of May, there were 750 bikes divided among 50 stations, and by July there will be 1500 bikes in 100 stations.
'It's fantastic, I use the bikes everyday, mostly to get to class, but also to go to the beach,' said a student at Pompeu Fabra University, as he returned a Bicing bike to a parking station near Ciutadella park, a popular cycling area. 'Not many of my friends are using the service yet, but I think things will pick up.'
It doesn't take a genius to see the advantages of city biking. Bikes don't pollute, they allow cyclists to reach areas not serviced by buses or metros, they're relatively inexpensive and they encourage exercise. Best of all, biking is often the fastest way to get from A to B.
'I ride my bike everywhere, just for convenience. It's the fastest way to get around the city,' said co-founder of My Beautiful Parking, one of many bike rental shops in the Barri Gótic. (There's a full list of rental agencies at www.bcn.es/bicicleta/en, where you'll also find a city bike lane map.)
Users can pick up a bright red-and-white bike in one station, use it for up to two hours and return it to any other station in the city.
Biking still has a few drawbacks in Barcelona. The old city's sometimes dirty streets are clogged by crowds. Heavily trafficked areas, like L'Eixample district, lack bike lanes. Districts where lanes exist may still be blocked by parked cars. Exceptions include the Avinguda Diagonal, Gran Via and Las Ramblas - bikers love the wide pedestrian medians.
Barcelona's biking culture is still in its infancy, but it's here to stay. More bike lanes and cooperation from drivers are needed, but for now, if you're good at swerving around pedestrians, breaking on a dime and dodging dog poop, you'll do fine. And if not, feel free to join me for a ride out on the seaside promenade.
Barcelona's public bike program, Bicing, is geared more toward residents, not out-of-towners. Taking part has a few complications. First, you need to pre-order a Bicing card from www.bicing.com (in Spanish), which costs €24 per year or €1 per week (the weekly card is available from July only). The card will be mailed to you. You'll be asked for a credit card number, so that Bicing can charge you €150 if you keep the bike more than 24 hours.
To pick up a bike, swipe your Bicing card at one of the bike stations scattered around the city. An automated system will tell you which bike to take. Once you adjust the seat and make sure the brakes are working, off you go. You can use the bike for a maximum of two hours before returning it to any station.
The program works out to be really cheap. The first 30 minutes of use are free and each additional half-hour is billed at €0.30.
Mayor Jordi Hereu called the plan 'innovative and healthy' and said it will 'contribute to a friendlier and safer environment'.
That depends on cyclists following the rules. So if you ride in the street, obey traffic laws. When cycling on pedestrian streets in the old city give walkers the right of way. You should walk your bike on sidewalks (though not many people actually do this). And never tie your bike to a tree, lamp post or other non-designated spot; you could be punished with a steep fine.
This route could take an hour or a day, depending on how often you stop and how fast you ride. If you have a rental bike, you'll find bike parking along the route. If you're using a Bicing bike, bike stations operative as of May are marked with a star (*), while stations not being unveiled until July are marked with two stars (**).
Start at Plaça Catalunya**, the gateway to the ciutat vella (old city). Pedal toward Portal de l'Angel, a commercial street wide enough to accommodate throngs of shoppers as well as a few cyclists - providing you're fairly adept at crowd weaving. Before long you'll come to the cathedral*. Dart up the left-hand side, along Carrer dels Freneria, passing the temptingly shady plaza of Frederic Marès museum and medieval Plaça del Rei.
Hang a left on Carrer del Call, then cross busy Via Laietana*. Zip down Carrer de l'Argenteria into the heart of Born district, most of which is pedestrianised. Circle to the right around Catalan Gothic Basílica de Santa María del Mar, which deposits you onto Passieg del Born*. From here, turn right on Carrer del Comerç to reach multi-lane Avinguda Marqués de l'Argentera, where there is a very safe bike lane. Turn left and roll into verdant Parc de la Ciutadella, an ideal place for a rest. The park's exterior is surrounded by Bicing stations*.
Backtrack down Marqués de l'Argentera and make your way left - there are bike lanes here - to reach the old fishermen's quarter, La Barceloneta*. Passeig Joan de Borbó* is ideal for cycling, but only borders the neighbourhood. For a real visit, turn left toward La Barceloneta's narrow streets. Weave your way toward central Plaça de la Font*, home to newly rebuilt Mercat de la Barceloneta (fresh market). A bike-friendly pedestrian street heads out of the plaza and directly to the Mediterranean promenade*. You could bike your way northeast along the coast for several kilometres, stopping at beaches or the countless cafes around Port Olímpic.
When you're ready to return to Plaça Catalunya, pick up the bike lane that begins near Port Olímpic and takes you all the way to Port Vell and Las Ramblas**. Avoid Las Ramblas' tourist-clogged pedestrian promenade and bike up the street itself, which is surprisingly calm due to new traffic regulations. In no time at all, you'll be back in Plaça Catalunya.
More from Lonely Planet's Travel Guide:
Overview • When to go • Sights • Money & Costs • Getting there & around • History
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