Afghanistan A Round at 'Royal' Kabul

Article by: Rodney Cocks, November 2005

The fact that anyone is still able to play at the Kabul Golf Course is nothing short of a miracle. Landmines and unexploded ammunition littered the fairways up until the late 1990s, when Afghan de-miners were able to painstakingly clear the area. For a country that has been at war for almost 25 years, the course has played host to many battles on the outskirts of the capital. The lack of trees on the fairways and the destroyed clubhouse are legacy to the fighting.

Arriving at the course I am greeted with a huge smile and open arms by resident club pro Muhammad Afzal Abdul. While the relatively war-free time of the Taliban made golfing possible, the fundamentalist regime outlawed the game - enforced by its 'Department of the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice' Police. Golf was declared un-Islamic and the Taliban jailed Abdul for three months for his 'sinful' behaviour. Recently, though, he has been assisted by a United Nations staffer, also a keen golfer, who has supplied clubs, bags and balls - all of which are available for hire by players. With the Taliban now ousted Abdul has been able to return to the course. He is also teaching young Afghans the art of golfing, possibly grooming Kabul's answer to Tiger Woods.

The green is not green – they are either brown or black and are hence known as browns or blacks

The club has been dubbed the 'Royal' Kabul by the small western diplomatic community that arrived after the Taliban regime toppled in late 2001. Some venture out to play a round, but are never too far away from the protection of their own soldiers who are also helping fight the country's ongoing insurgency. Some soldiers find themselves scouring the mountains for Taliban and Al Qaeda militants, while others find themselves at the Royal on diplomatic protection. Three armoured personnel carriers and thirty soldiers in formation toting machine guns is not an uncommon sight as their Panama-hatted chiefs tee off.

Prior to teeing off Abdul makes sure I read the local rules. It's a nine hole, 2525mt course - with the back nine played off different tees. Then comes more interesting reading: 'Attack the course, play aggressively,' it reads. 'Don't even ask for the stroke index because this is Afghanistan and they're all tough.'

'Kabul is a second shot course where the battle is on the fairway, like Pebble Beach and St Andrews.' Standing at the first tee, I am still trying to make sense of the comparison.

I soon find out why it is a battle. The fairways are not covered with finely groomed clover, but weeds and thistles in places, and mainly sand, dirt and rocks, then even more rocks. Ordinarily, some golfers occasionally end up in the rough; here in Kabul that describes the entire course. Even then, the most skilled golfer will end up in trouble at some time. With that in mind it is highly advisable to hire a second caddie who stays a shot ahead of you to spot your ball. A diplomat foolishly rejected the advice recently and was forced to send some of his protection troops back to the clubhouse after a few holes to get a re-supply of balls.

I was having enough trouble without accessorizing with an M16

I eventually make it to the green on the first, after five shots. However the greens are not green - they are either brown or black and are hence known as browns or blacks. They get their name from the used engine oil and sand mix that is spread to create a putting surface. This creativity not only saves on non-existent water, but also on maintenance, as just a sweep with a large broom is required by the brownkeepers. The surface is mostly flat, yet extremely slow and leaves the ball slightly oily.

Managing to stay out of the bunkers until the sixth fairway, I eventually find myself next to a real military one - another reminder of the Russian occupation of Afghanistan during the 1980s. As my caddie scurries through the bunker trying to find my ball, he tells me to wait on the fairway as there is still unexploded ammunition scattered inside. Luckily the local rules allow for players to tee off on the fairways, and my loyal caddie places down the artificial grass mat and I tee off again, taking the penalty stroke.

During the round a convoy of NATO soldiers patrol along the road that splits the course, the soldiers wave from their turrets perched behind their heavy machine guns. Foreign troops are known to play here. Some even manage the difficult task of playing with their weapons still slung over their shoulders. I was having enough trouble without accessorizing with an M16. Still, their combat boots are the most sensible choice of footwear - no need for spikes at Royal Kabul.

Abdul meets me on the ninth and by that time I have worked out the browns, and with the sound advice of my caddie, I am pretty happy with my card of 62 strokes for the nine holes. This 'sinner' invites me back to the clubhouse for chi (tea) that we drink on a rug outside in the shadow of a destroyed hull of a Soviet tank on a hill overlooking the course. He talks about the new Afghanistan and his vision for golf in the war torn country. Unfortunately for Abdul the game is largely unknown to Afghans, but maybe one day the Royal will host the PGA Tour of Kabul.

• To get to the Royal Kabul, catch a taxi at Chicken or Flower St . The ride will take about 15 minutes and cost you $US20. For the fare the driver will wait for you at the course and take you back following your game.
• No need to book a round, just turn up (in any case, there is no phone). You don't need to take anything with you except an open mind and your camera. A round will cost you $10, the two caddies $8, a dozen balls $6 and club hire $5. Make sure you talk to Abdul about his time during the Taliban.
• The best time to play is during the summer, late spring or early autumn - teeing off in a metre of snow may prove challenging during the bitter winter . I would also recommend starting early in the day. Use a known and trusted taxi driver and return to Kabul by mid afternoon at the latest. No need to expose yourself by driving on the outskirts of the city after dark.