Lady in Aix
Blog: A Lady in London - 7 November 2009
When I was 18 I spent a semester studying in Nice. I traveled most weekends and visited many cities in Provence—there was a trip to Eze, an afternoon in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and of course an outing in Antibes. I saw a lot. But when I got back to California, everyone asked me the same question: "What did you think of Aix?" Aix? Oops. Missed that one.
It's been a long time since I lived in Nice, but I still haven't forgotten about my oversight. An ancient Roman thorn in my side, the beautiful spa town beckoned. And so I went. I saw. I ate.
A friend and I spent the last two days in beautifully sunny Aix with no agenda whatsoever. Accordingly, we followed a strict regimen of food, walk, coffee and pastries, walk, wine, walk. Repeat as necessary for two days.
Our leisurely gluttony took us on a lovely tour of the historic city. It went something like this:
Saturday, 11:30am
Les Deux Garcons:
Breakfast of Chantilly-laden hot chocolate and croque monsieur while watching the world go by on the Cours Mirabeau.
Saturday, 1:00pm
Le Clos de la Violette:
Michelin starred and perfectly relaxing, four hours passed by in a wonderful haze of pink champagne and gastronomic delights at the best restaurant in Aix.
Saturday, 4:30pm
Hédiard:
Hédiard:
Parisian gourmet food shop with a free wine tasting that wouldn't take no for an answer.
Saturday, 5:00pm
Riederer:
Earl Grey tea with a two-tiered tray of pastries because the four course lunch just wasn't enough.
Saturday, 7:00pm
Antoine et Lili:
My favorite Parisian boutique conveniently located in Aix. A new pink silk top left the store with us.
Saturday, 8:00pm
Le Bouddoir:
Wine and olives at an outdoor table. In a square. With a fountain. And a rude waiter. Vive La France!
Saturday, 9:30pm
La Tomate Verte:
Daube Provençal, a bottle of wine from the vineyard of the Hédiard tasting, and good conversation. A perfect end to an amazing day.
Sunday, 11:00am
Produce Market in Place Richelme:
Breakfast smörgåsbord purchased from cheese vendors, ham hawkers, fruitmongers, and olive sellers. A baguette so fresh it was hot to the touch. Picnic by the fountain on Cours Mirabeau.
Sunday, 1:00pm
La Belle Epoque:
Wine plus coffee plus people watching equals afternoon bliss.
Sunday, 1:30pm
Giovanni Gelateria
If given the choice, who wouldn't follow wine and coffee with gelato? Chocolate, coffee, amarena, and caramel, s'il vous plaît.
Sunday, 2:00pm
Béchard:
We support businesses that support Sunday opening hours. A bag of calissons were in order to appease the boyfriends left at home.
Sunday, 6:00pm
Le Coquet:
Moules frites, vin rouge, lemon tart, and ile flotant for sustenance on a long homeward journey.
To all who still wonder what I thought of Aix, I finally have an answer: delicious!
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