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One of the disadvantages of living in Dharamsala is if you want to explore other places in India, the chances are you have to go via Delhi.

I have always had a love/hate relationship with the capital city. There are some interesting and cool places to see, great restaurants and plentiful coffee shops, and it is also fantastic for shopping and book browsing.

Yet like many, I hate coming through it. A lot has to do with the hassle of a wide variety of touts out to try and screw as many dollars as they can. Shooing them away quickly puts one in a negative mood. If it is of any consultation to Delhi new-comers, it´s a damn site better than it used to be. I first came here 20 years ago this month with SRN and offered us our first taste of India – Man, were we shell-shocked!

Roads have been mended, cars, vans and rickshaws have been forced to clean up their engines and a very efficient, cheap and ever-expanding Metro has been installed. ATMs and coffee shops abound around the whole city. Long gone are the days of spending the day in the bank to try and change a travellers cheque.

Fortunately, if you are making an exit by train, life is too easy. Ignore whatever you are told by taxi and rickshaw drivers (no, it has not moved or been burnt down), and “helpful” travel agents, head to New Delhi station. Go to the main entrance at the centre of the terminal and head up to the second floor. There you will find the International Tourist Bureau. Pick up a reservation form and if you don´t know all the train details, make your way to the “May I Help You” counter. Within five minutes the woman at the counter has given me all the details of getting up to Darjeeling. I sit on a comfy sofa by the booking desk with blaring aircon (it´s 42 degrees Celsius outside) for another 10 minutes until I´m called over. The transaction is complete within a further five minutes. I get the last ticket for tomorrow´s overnight express. Almost all the customers are of Indian extraction.

This miracle of an office is open from 8am – 8pm, Mondays to Saturdays. It closes at 2pm on Sundays.

Please note you must bring a passport or copy to make your reservation.