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After a very long and bumpy ride from Murgab (105 Somoni, 10hours), through a very strange border crossing where they never checked us we got to Osh at about 11:30. finding Osh Guesthouse wasn’t easy, and asking around only made more trouble as evferybody on the street was drunk.

The only thing worth mentionoing in Osh, except for the real danger of wondering outside at night, is Osh bazar. the bazar is very large and you can find anything from food to household appliances and kitchshi souvenirs.

In order to get to Arslanbob we took a Marshutka to Jalal-Abad, from there to Bazar-Korgoon and a taxi (60 Som each) to Arslanbob. transport to Jalal-Abad and Bazar-Korgoon is very straight forward with a woman who sales you the tickets. the taxi drivers in Bazar-Korgoon bus station will, of-course, tell you there is no bus to Arslanbob. there is, but it’s early. we exited the bus station and found a cheaper taxi with thew help of the guy who runs the biliard placr in the station. sometimes help comes from unpredictable places.

In Arslanbob we were immidiately approached by a local who invited us to his homestay. Mukhtar asked for 350 Som. we agreed on 300 Som including dinner and breakfast. the following morning we enjoyed Mukhtars wife pancakes and honey, a real rare treat in this area. we started the climb up and out of Arslanbob when a truck headed up took us for the ride, demanding money afterwards. the climb up through the valley is beautiful, the villagers use the end of summer to collect shrubs for the long winter, stacking it high up and than to the trucks.

We camped for the night in a disserted summer home (not in it, by it). the next day we continued up where the locals assured us it would take more than 3 days just to get to Kul-Kupan (the lake we set out to fnd). being in a hurry, as Idan needed to catch a flight we headed back to Mukhtars. the next day, we decide, will be something different.

A short haggle with a local mechanic got us an ancient-soviet-could-be-called-automobile, and a 14 yearold driver. we bought supplies and headed up to the mountains to cook our lunch. the driver took us to a locals hangout with a small kitchen and sitting tables. the Plov-de-la-Israel was great.

Another night at Mukhtars and we headed back to Jalal-Abad, on our way to Sary-Chelek.