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After spending 2 weeks in Dushanbe, unable to get a visa to China, we had enough. Too much city-time, and too much food. Solution: head to the Pamirs.

 A 24 hour, 130 Somoni and a few broken bones later we got to Khorog, the Pamiri regional capital. Transport to Khorog leaves from the Badakhshanskaya Avstonitsiya, which is on the route of bus #8, that leaves from the Barakat Bazar. Jeeps can cost up to 300 Somoni per person (more than the 70$ flight). Marshutkas and Ladas are cheaper. Prices change during the summer, being expensive from Dushanbe to Khorog at the beginning of summer and vica versa at the end.

 In Khorog we stayed at the Pamir Lodge. The local bazaar is not very big, but has relatively varied goods, and it’s possible to find reasonable stuff for trecking. The local botanical garden is more like a small forest with some Russian signs. The official guard takes 3 Somoni and gives a receipt, the gardener, whome you will probably meet at the entrance will ask for 5. we gave him 1. the best thing about Khorog is the great abundance of ice-cream machines, at every possible shop.

 A 2 hour 25 Somoni jeep took us to Ishkashim, where we went to the cross-border Afghan market, where Afghans sell goods to Tajiks. Just leave the passport at the gate and you’re in. a further 25 Somoni ride took us to Vrang for our trail head. Just above Vrang there is a Buddhist-Chinese-style Pyramid with a great view of the Wakhan valley. It took us 3 days to get to the floor of Vrang Pass, as we were not acclimated to the altitude (Khorog is about 2000 meters high). The pass itself was relatively easy to find, considering the 1:500,000 map we used (the Marcus Hauser tourist map, available at Khorog and Dushanbe. Or internet). Over the pass we started the very long descent, and understood it was probably nearly impossible to climb from the Northern side, as it was snowed in. it was only when we got to Sovetabad, that we realized we took the wrong valley over the pass, we planned to get to Rubot.

 An extremely friendly Sovetabadi family hosted us for the night, promising to take us to Jawshangos, our next trail head, the following day. As there is no transport over the dirt road that connects the villages we agreed, and enjoyed a day and a night of wonderful Pamiri hospitality, gaining more than a few pounds. Food just did not stop coming. The next morning we payed for gas (a steep 120 Somoni) and they took us to Jawshangos. If you plan to travel through Sakhdara valley (Jawshangos, Rubot etc.) be aware that transport is EXTREMELY scarce.

 In Jawshangos we ate yet another meal and started the climb up to Turumtail Kul. Not before we forced our host to accept some money for his efforts.

 The map shows a trail starting a little East from Jawshangos, the villagers pointed us to a trail heading directly out of it. It took us 2 nights to get to the High Way through Turumtai Kul. Other villagers, of course, fed us a little on the way.

 During the whole trip we saw only a few animals. 2 Bearded-Voltures, a big rodent we didn’t identify, many ravens and butterflies. 3 hunters we met in Vrang valley told us some Ibex live there. We saw none. Maybe they found them first.

 The Pamir High-Way is quite an exageration, as a title, considering the fact that some parts of it aren’t even asphalt, and transport is thin. We managed to catch a Marshutka for 40 Somoni each to Murgab. Hotel Maria, where we stayed in Murgab is Highly-recommended as Jora, the owner is a lovely old Kyrgyz man, extremely nice (read further details), just what we needed after the the mountains. The next morning, after meeting 2 Israelis who joined our hotel room in the middle of the night, we found a jeep to Osh for 100 Somoni each. 12 hours of the same “High-Way”.

 Crossing the border was extremely easy, as the driver did all the red-tape (bribing probably) our way through costumes, without even being checked.