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The first major excursion from Seoul in our trip was to Gyeongju.  As we left Namyangju, following the banks of the Han river south, we passed through Yeoju, a city in Gyeonggi province.  As we drove, a sign caught my eye and I asked my father-in-law if we could stop and take a look.

The sign pointed to the tomb of King Sejong, perhaps Korea’s most loved ruler.  King Sejong presided over a somewhat more enlightened period of Korea’s history, encouraging science, implementing agricultural improvements and most famously, bringing about the creation of the Korean alphabet.  While his role in its creation may never be completely clear, that he had empathy for the plight of the common person is.  An alternative reasoning might suggest he was a savvy enough manager to realise enabling all of his subjects to communicate their desires using the written word could only benefit his ability to rule in an orderly fashion.

Despite efforts to squash literacy in non-aristocrats by subsequent rulers, and the attacks on Korea culture during Japanese occupation, Hangul has survived, and so has Sejong the great’s place in the hearts of Koreans.

When we pulled into the site of his tomb that day, however, it was closed.  This wasn’t entirely a bad thing, as it meant there were few people around to compete with my wife’s mother as she collected the many gingko nuts lying on the ground.  We moved on, but a few weeks later, we were able to return.

Ginko nuts

I was glad we did.  On entering, we were presented with an open-air museum exhibiting the various scientific instruments created and improved under Sejong’s patronage.  Satisfying my nerdy bent, we were able to see various astronomical devices, observatories, sundials and star charts.  The rain gauge, first used under Sejong’s rule to help manage agriculture (central to the Confucian economy) could also be seen.

Astronomical instruments at King Sejong's tomb

Moving closer to the tomb through the main gates, the afternoon sun bathed the grassy field and burial mound in a warm glow, and pigeons moved slowly along the edge of the nearby woods.  Seeing pigeons in their natural environment, and not as filthy imported city rats was a novel first for me as well.

Approaching the tomb

We walked to the top of the mound, past the guardian statues, and looking back toward the entrance, I couldn’t imagine a more fitting place for a great ruler.  It seems some thought must have gone into this too, as his tomb was moved from its orginal site to the current site, deemed better than his original resting place.

The view from the burial mound

We left the tomb and headed to another Yeoju site, the birthplace of Empress Myeongseong.

Empress Myeongseong has an interesting place in Korean history, mostly played out during the difficult times as the Choseon dynasty ended and the Japanese occupation began.  You can read about it on wikipedia, although I’d also recommend a read of Korean history for a full background of life in Confucian society.

A much smaller museum, it was hard for the childhood home of “Queen Min” to make the same impression as the spiritual calm of Sejong’s tomb, but like most of the sites you’ll visit in Korea, it’s an interesting piece of their frequently tragic history.

Outside the museum at the birthplace of Empress Myeongseong

Assuming that the exhibits don’t get you down too much, you can lighten your spirits a little by trying to throw ten-won pieces into the fountain outside.  If your aim is good, you’ll be rewarded with an aquatic display fit for a miniature Esther Williams, as well as the admiration of any Koreans who happen to be around (I’m speaking from experience).

Yeoju is also famous for its rice, and we finished the evening sampling Nureungji (누릉지),  which is essentially rice served in a hot stone bowl.  The rice in contact with the stone becomes crunchy, and you then add water and mix into a kind of soup or porridge.  The restaurant we ate at was alongside the river, and while I don’t remember the name, I’m sure you’ll have no trouble finding somewhere.

Yeoju Nureungji

Links:

Sejong’s tomb

Getting there:

• http://english.gg.go.kr/tour/sightseeingSite.jsp?seq=17&page=2&caller=list
• http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=778679

Article discussing UNESCO events taking place at Joseon tombs this year:

• http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_realfield_detail.htm?No=1679

Birthplace of Empress Myeongseong

Getting there -

• http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264609
• http://www.yeoju.gyeonggi.kr/eng/tour/remain_04.asp

History -

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empress_Myeongseong

Hanjeongsik in Yeoju

• http://joonsfamily.com/index.php?showtopic=8572&st=180&p=55976&#entry55976