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Since the late 14^th century a 18.2km wall has defined the city of Seoul linking up the peaks of Bukaksan (342m), Naksan (125m), Namsan (262m) and Inwangsan (338m). Today only about 10.5km of the wall remains, most of it snaking across the highest peaks with just major gates such as Dongdaemun (see previous post) surviving on the city’s lowland area. In 2007, the section of the wall around Bukaksan, which had been firmly off-limits to civilians for 40 years so as to provide security for the nearby Blue House, the official home of South Korea’s president, was opened up to the public. Hiking this stretch not only provides a strenuous 2 hour work out and amazing views of the city – weather permitting – but has the added frisson of still high security.

The website’s info about foreigners needing to apply in advance to walk the route is no longer true – anyone can turn up without making an advance reservation, but you do need to bring your passport along to gain access which is allowed Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 3pm. You’ll be issued with a security tag which you’ll have to surrender once you exit the walk. Photography is strictly forbidden except at designated view spots – this is to protect the various military installations along the way. And just in case you were thinking of sneaking in a snap with that mobile phone camera – don’t! There are CCTV cameras at 20m intervals as well as squadrons of army personnel, casually dressed in trendy hiking gear and caps. “They want people to be relaxed,” explained Mr Han, the head of Seoul’s city tourism department who was accompanying me on the hike.

My unathorised snapping of the Rose of Sharon, Korea’s national flower that blooms profusely on these verdant slopes, caused a minor security flap – resulting in a squadie being assigned to us for the rest of the hike and earning Mr Han a lecture from an army official for not arranging this all in advance (poor guy, he was just trying to show off his city to the best advantage!). The hassle and the sweat getting up the peak of Bukaksan was well worth it, though, for the sweeping panorama right across the city to south of the Han River. The young squadies are very friendly and called me over to photograph one of the 19 deer who live on the slopes and whom they feed from time to time.

The wall is in excellent condition and with all the security you get a vivid sense of its original purpose as the last line of defense for the city. All up, one of my more unique hiking experiences.