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Lomé

Things to do in Lomé

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  1. Alt München

    A Bavarian restaurant just east of Hôtel Mercure-Sarakawa, offering a good selection of German beers and hearty European dishes such as goulash and knuckle of pork.

    reviewed

  2. A

    China Town

    This surprisingly unkitsch, air-conditioned Chinese restaurant, with a well-stocked bar, is at the southwest end of the boulevard.

    reviewed

  3. B

    Village Artisanal

    At this easy-going centre you'll see Togolese artisans weaving cloth, carving statues, making baskets and lampshades, sewing leather shoes and constructing cane chairs and tables - all for sale at reasonable fixed prices. Lomé is famous for leather sandals; they were originally all made at the Village Artisanal, but you can also buy them around the Grand Marché.

    reviewed

  4. Greenfield

    Tucked away off Route de Kpalimé, near Tokoin Hospital, this funky French-owned garden bar-restaurant is decorated with dancing Keith Harring figures and colourful lanterns. It is family-friendly, with a menu for children and teenagers, and films screened for youngsters on Saturdays, in addition to the adult films on Tuesdays and live jazz.

    reviewed

  5. C

    Café Panini

    In the words of one French drinker we encountered here, Panini is 'the arse of the chicken' - the gloriously sleazy epicentre of Lomés nightlife. Avoid if you object to being hustled by multilingual prostitutes.

    reviewed

  6. D

    Librairie Bon Pasteur

    Lomé's best bookshop, a block west of the cathedral. It sells maps and, occasionally, English publications like the International Herald Tribune and Time.

    reviewed

  7. E

    Brochettes sur la Capital

    This Lomé institution is the city at its best - enjoy sitting outside eating lip-smacking kebabs and watching the boulevard hustle by.

    reviewed

  8. F

    Boston Maquis

    You can get good, cheap food at this friendly restaurant opposite Centre Culturel Français.

    reviewed

  9. Marché des Féticheurs

    The Marché des Féticheurs, 4km northeast of the centre, stocks all the ingredients for traditional tonics and fetishes - porcupine skin, warthog teeth, donkey skull, serpent head, horse hair, parakeet tail, thunderstones and chameleons. You can also buy ready-made grigri charms, such as the lovers' fetish and the 'telephone' fetish for travellers. Stock is sourced all over Africa and some visitors may feel uncomfortable buying the parts of lions, panthers, antelopes and buffalo, or rare species.

    The market is an overpriced tourist trap, but is still worth a visit. To get there charter a taxi or a taxi-moto.

    reviewed

  10. G

    Rue des Artisans

    Close to Grand Marché is this relatively low-pressure place to buy woodcarvings and brasswork - including some fetching malachite jewellery - from Burkinabé, Senegalese, Nigerian and Malian traders. The short street is east of Hôtel du Golfe, with some private art galleries at the north end. Come with your haggling cap firmly on.

    reviewed

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  12. H

    Musée National

    The entrance to the Musée National is at the back of the Palais du Congrès in Place de l'Indépendance. It houses historical artefacts, pottery, costumes, musical instruments, woodcarvings and traditional medicines, plus 'thunderstones' (large rocks shaped like eggs) and cowrie shells, both formerly used as legal tender.

    reviewed

  13. Chez Alice

    To party long into the night, take a bush taxi to Chez Alice in the village of Avéposo, about 12km from the heart of Lomé on the coastal highway to Aného. This German-owned joint, popular with overlanders, hosts barbecues or fondue feasts with traditional music and dancing on Wednesday from 20:00. Meals are available.

    reviewed

  14. I

    Grand Marché

    This is the place to pick up everything from Togolese football tops to wax cloth (sold by the 2m pagne - the amount needed for a complete outfit - traders sometimes refuse to sell less than this as it's not always easy to shift the rest).

    reviewed

  15. J

    Keur Rama

    This restaurant, on the eastern side of town near the Nigerian embassy, offers Senegalese and Togolese cuisine. Try the delicious chep boudjen (fish cooked with cabbage, eggplant and carrots).

    reviewed

  16. K

    Restaurant la Pirogue

    In the words of the head waiter at this friendly restaurant near the ocean, the food comes from Togo, from Vietnam, and from the sea. Try the agouti - a rodent called 'grasscutter' in English.

    reviewed

  17. L

    L'Okavango

    Opposite UTB bank, not far from the beach, L'Okavango is a regular pleasure garden, with animals frolicking among the bushes and a good selection of dishes and obscure beers.

    reviewed

  18. Henry Loí'c

    French biologist and lover of the piste(rough trails) Henry Loí'c offers 4WD tours to secluded local sights such as turtle beaches, and further afield.

    reviewed

  19. Club Hippique

    There are tennis courts at the large hotels and horse riding can be organised through Club Hippique, located near the airport, or through Hôtel Mecure-Sarakawa.

    reviewed

  20. M

    L'Abeille d'Or

    This air-conditioned patisserie and restaurant, on the 1st floor of the Immeuble Taba, behind Hôtel Palm Beach, is popular with the Lebanese community.

    reviewed

  21. N

    Ristorante Da-Claudio

    This restaurant, owned by an Italian-Togolese couple, is a great place to sample traditional Italian fare, with both air-con dining and a relaxing terrace.

    reviewed

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  23. O

    Marox Supermarché

    Local vendors sell a wide array of fresh fruit and vegetables outside the small Marox Supermarché, which itself is your best bet for meat products.

    reviewed

  24. P

    Le Palmiers

    The food here is nothing special, but it's a great place to have a beer in view of the taxi-motos swarming down the boulevard like angry wasps.

    reviewed

  25. Q

    Cristal Palace

    Part of the popular Sunset Bar and Millennium nightclub complex, this beer garden is a good spot for a game of pool to a soundtrack of Togolese hip-hop.

    reviewed

  26. R

    Bar Agou

    Appropriately named after Togo's highest mountain, this hotel bar has an unequalled view of Place de l'Indépendence and the city. Meals available.

    reviewed

  27. S

    Bric à Brac

    Your best bet for high-quality art. The friendly owner has a showroom of good-quality West African pieces, and her fixed prices are very reasonable.

    reviewed