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Nature and Environmental Concerns in Central Asia:

For those interested in Central Asian nature and environment, below is a small collection of links to stories and maps highlighting the matter. For the more undertaking/intrepid traveler, they contain some ideas and background on places to visit.

UNEP map of protected areas and ecological values of Central Asia and surrounding region (click here)

Kazakhstan: government expands protection of steppes

The work of conservation groups and state agencies have resulted in the establishment of a new nature reserve in the steppes of northwestern Kazakhstan. The Irgiz-Turgay project safeguards habitat for the rare saiga antelope and endangered bird species. But environmentalists say it is part of a much larger initiative to create a system of protected areas of more than 6 million hectares in Kazakhstan's steppes. The Kazakh government established the Irgiz-Turgay nature reserve earlier this year over more than 760,000 hectares in the steppes of northwestern Kazakhstan.

click here

Central Asia: conservationists reintroduce deer to former habitat

In Kazakhstan, a small group of Bukhara deer (Cervus elaphus bactrianus) has been relocated to a former habitat in the Altyn Emel National Park. The species is endemic to Central Asia, and previous reintroductions and other conservation efforts in the region have proven successful, paving the way for this latest move. But environmentalists are still warning that the Bukhara deer's habitat -- which includes Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan -- needs better protection.

click here

Reversing disaster: dam project aims to save Aral Sea

As the sun rises above the Aral Sea, Alek, a local fisherman, steers the boat, leans forward and pulls the net out of the glittering water.
It is full of carp, sturgeon and flounder - just two years ago he could not have even dreamt of this catch.
"All thanks to the dam," Alek grins as he throws the fish into a growing pile on the bottom of his rowing boat.
The dam is part of a $68m project, initiated by the Kazakh government and financed by loans from the World Bank.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/6538219.stm

Edited by: Irene_Adler

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Information on Vakhsh Valley in Tajikistan

Just wanted to share some information about the Kolab (Kulyab) area in the Vakhsh Valley. This is a nice-ish place to kill some time. The town of Kolab is pretty small, but there is an interesting Mausoleum of Mir Said Ali Hamadoni a 19th century persian historian/writer who died there and also some interesting things to see in the area.

There are 3 hotels - Hotel Khotlan across from the market is a big modern place with excellent rooms with tv / fridge / en suite, but no water when I was there. I managed to negotiate 50 tjs per night. They are installing an ATM in the lobby. There is another hotel above the Orima supermarket farther north along the main street - it supposedly charges $25 for a room. The third place is called Motel Sana (caha) and is behind the Khotlan - I didnt check the prices there.

The market is pretty interesting and there are choikhona / oshkhona on the 2nd floor, but the seem to close when the market does at around 6pm. There are several other eateries around as well, the nicest one supposedly being the one to the east of the park and behind the mausoleum

The Mausoleum is about 600m north of the market on the main street - there is a small museum that the caretaker will show you that has some history of the man in russian. The shrine itself appears very modern due to the recent restoration funded by Iran, but it is actually much older.

About 30 minutes away by mashrutkoe (take one to Voce from the market and then take another to Kulbuk) is the ruined citadel of Kulbuk or Qulbuk worth a look. One face has been completly rebuilt, looking a bit incongruous, but you may meet some archeologists working there. There is a museum across the road, but it was closed when I was there.

About halfway between Voce and Kolab is a small village of Guliston which has a livestock market just outside of town on Saturday mornings. Also nearby (and around every village) is an interesting muslim cemetary. They use the horns of sheep or deer to adorn some of the graves. I happened to meet some grave diggers who had recently finished digging a grave and who invited me to stay and watch the funeral procession which was very interesting.

To get to Kolab from Dushanbe, go to the Avtovoksal and ask for Kolab. The route - about 4 hours passes lake Nerut and the scenery is quite nice. You also pass through Kulbuk and Voce and Guliston en route to Kolab, so you could stop if you like.

Just make sure you have an OVIR registration before you go because they definitely check them here.

Edited by: Irene_Adler

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Tajik / Kyrgyz Border @ Karamik closed to foreigners

Just wanted to share this with any one planning this route. This is the Garm (Rasht) Valley crossing from Jirgital to Daroot Korgon. Maybe this is only a temporary closing as it seems has happened in the past, but if you plan to go make sure you get reliable information first - probably a tourist agency would be the best source. I relied on the word of the Kyrgyz consel in Dushanbe that it was open. It is in fact open to Tajik and Kyrgyz travellers, so this creates the confusion. Everyone I asked naturally said it was open.

I almost thought I would get through since the chief of the border guard asked me for some money to let me pass. I wouldnt normally do this, but since my Tajik visa and Kyrgyz transit visa and my Chinese visa were all due to expire in a few days, I desperately wanted through. I gave him $50 and passed on to the next stage where they stamp the passports and here, they wouldn't let me pass. One of the soldiers tried to convince the others to take $100, but in the end, they said it wouldnt matter since the Kyrgyz side wouldnt let me through.

I went back to the chief who actually gave me my money back and then invited me to tea/dinner and gave me some space on the floor to sleep. He told me he could act as an "agent" and take me through both sides of the border in the morning. We negotiated a price of $105, but in the morning he changed his mind and instead put me on a vehicle heading back to Jirgital.

In the end, I managed to get a visa extension for Tajikistan (through Sayoh - Ikbal is great!) on a Sat and the last day of my existing visa - it cost $60 for 2 weeks. I naturally lost my kyrgyz and chinese visas. Oh well...

The Rasht Valley is quite beautiful and the people there (mostly Kyrgyz) were very friendly. I ended up having to spend a night in Jirgital at the gastinitsa (the only place in town) which is very nice if a bit pricey (50 somani for a dorm bed and a 15 tjs facilities charge for the billiards/tv and 5 tjs for a shower). I learned how to play russian billiards and sing some folk songs.

Be aware that transport from there to Dushanbe is a bit hit or miss - there seems to be only shared taxis and if there are no passengers you either have to wait till the next day or buy out the extra seats.

Edited by: Irene_Adler

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OVIR registration in Tajikistan no joke

If you are in Tajikistan and not planning to go to GBAO (for which you need to register with OVIR before getting the GBAO permit), you may think you can save some money by not registering with OVIR. Afterall, the LP states that it is never checked, right? Well maybe, if you are lucky. I took that gamble and lost big time. Probably if you stay in the main cities you wouldnt have a problem, though.

I was in Kolab in the Vakhsh valley in southern Taj and got stopped by some police to check my passport. They quickly noticed the lack of registration and to make a long story short, 3 days later and $300 poorer, I managed to leave. Ok normally it wouldnt take 3 days, but I got stopped on a Sat after banks were closed, so I had to wait until Monday to pay the fine in the bank. I had to wait an additional day since on Monday, the OVIR officer got called to Dushanbe for an emergency. Normally the fine is 1200 TJS which is around $350, but since I didnt have quite that much with me they let me get by with less.

This was one circumstance where I wish the cops HAD been corrupt and maybe I could have gotten away with a much smaller fee and much less time.

Edited by: Irene_Adler

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Permit for Altai Mountains and Lake Marakol, Kazakhstan

Despite speculation above that the aforementioned permit may no longer be required, it is possible to organise a permit in advance, which is especially useful if you're on a schedule.

The permit costs US$25, which you can wire to Ust Kamenogorsk weeks ahead to arrange the permit.

Please PM me for the email address of the person who issues them.

The permit is apparantly necessary to pass Qotanqaraghay (to Rahmanov's Springs and Mt Belukha) and Lake Marakol Reserve.

Costs to enter the National Park are US$4.20 per person per day, plas US$0.80 per vehicle. These prices however I have not checked.

This said, I've never heard of anyone getting up into the Kazakh Altay Mountains, and never managed to find any posts from people who have got righ up into the north-east.

Daniel

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Registration in Tajikistan.

We entered by cycle from Samarkand. In Penjikent we asked to the militia yo be registered. It must be possible there (15 dollar + 20 somoni) but they told us to go to Dushanbe. It would take us 6 days to get there and you must be registered within 3 days. It was, according to the militiaofficer no problem.
In Dushanbe there are at least 3 OVIR offices. We were told wich one to go to (the one behind the park of Ayni opera). The lady there (no English) told us the 20 somani registrationslip wich we got in Hotel Vaksh, was enough registration. When we explained we were already 6 days in Tajikistan, there was a problem: we had to pay a 1000 somoni tax (350 $). Nobody made any move to collect this fine. We were then told to go to Khorog and register there!!!
To get rid of all the problems, we went to the Tjik Intours office of Mr. Safar, 3 doors down from the Afghan embassy and explained our situation. They speak English. A lady who works there, works also on the OVIR. We paid 35 dollar per person to get our registration fixed and 35 dollar for our GBOApermit. 2 days later everything was OK.

It seems you HAVE to register but the officials themselves don't know the rules.

Happy travels, TOON.

Edited by: Irene_Adler

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Crossing from Baku to Aktau

We tried to get on the ferry from Baku to Aktau. We waited a week end then the ferry left without us altough we went everyday at least 3 times to check departures. No places left they told us. Even an "extra fee" could not get us a ticket. Strange because the ferry takes tarins and trucks, why not 2 cyclists?
So we booked a flight from Baku to Aktau with SCAT airways. 150 manat oneway. Goes at least 5 times a week in the mornig. Same price for locals as for tourists. Old shaky plane but it got us across the Caspian the next day. Even ou bicycles went in the plane (2 $ per kg above the 20 kg free luggage).
If you have to wait: Baku is a nice city to walk around (area around the old town) but expensive to stay and eat.

Good luck.
TOON.

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Don't know if this has been posted before but:
Almaty, Chinese Embassy has moved to Astana. However you can still get visas at the consulate located at Baitsova 12. The consulate is open Mon, Wed and Fri from 9-12 only

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few info about visa in central asia, I am travelling east to west, I am holding NZ passport

Kyrgyz and Kazakh visa at Urumqi

Kazakh visa, 174RMB, or 25 USD, 4 days processing
Kyrgyz visa, 735RMB for 3 days, or 450 RMB for 7 days processing

Uzbek visa at Bishkek
102 USD, need a translator, about 25USD, got the visa on the spot, I guess they were not too busy in the autumn season, plus I had all the right document, LOI, copy of passport, photo.

Iranian visa at Tashkent
60 Euro, no need for translator, 2 photos, copy of passport, fill out a form, a brief interview, collect visa the next day, got my code from Iranianvisa.com

Turkmen transit visa at Tashkent
55USD, no need for translator, 1 photo, 2 copy of passport, fill out a form, no interview, collect visa within 5 days. rule has changed now, they wil issue the transit visa within maximum of 5 days.

Edited by: flower_2008

Edited by: flower_2008

Edited by: flower_2008

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Some info that may be interesting to some people:

As a British citizen I was able to get all my Central Asia visas (bar Turkmenistan) without any sort of invitation at the Moscow Embassies. Here's some details:

Kazakhstan 5-day single-entry transit visa: US$20 for 5-working day service. I think there was a faster, more expensive option too.

Kyrgyzstan 1-month single-entry tourist visa: US$60 for 4-working day service or about double this for an on-the-spot visa.

Tajikistan: US$60 for a 1-month single-entry tourist visa issued on the spot or US$100 for a 2-month single entry tourist visa issued on the spot. I came back a week later to change it to a double entry visa and had to pay US$30. I got the impression that for more money you could easily get more months and more entries on your visa. They refuse to issue GBAO permits. The place is so chaotic it's not an experience for the faint-hearted. Also I'm not sure whether anyone there speaks English or whether they have any application forms in English.

Uzbekistan: 1-month multiple entry tourist visa for US$75. 2 working days.

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A note on Tajikistan visas: Tajikistan now has an embassy in the US. They're website has visa information: http://www.tjus.org/ Most travelers need some kind of LOI, but if you request a visa through an educational institution you can get by without one.

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good

Hotel

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Hi all.
Can the forum advise if there is still a Monday bus from Kashgar to Osh?
If not what are our alternatives?
We will travel in late April.
Grateful for any advice.

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Where has the thread on books and reading links specifically about THE (ancient) SILK ROAD disappeared to?
You could whiz in there for info on books to read and it was a good way of collecting reading on the subject. Now it's gone - why?
I have been searching for it in order to post a new, very readable book about the ancient Silk Road and its archaeology .... with no success.