Kathmandu to Salleri (Solu) via Bus or Jeep, video
Replies: 21 - Last Post: Aug 1, 2013 1:05 PM Last Post By: cyclingpaul1
Jul 29, 2013 8:47 AM
Kathmandu to Salleri (Solu) via Bus or Jeep, videoFriend of mine posted this video...chronicles the road trip from KTM to Salleri via lowland areas and across the Sun Kosi.
I took a jeep like the one depicted on the route in March, 2013. At that time there were no buses and few trucks. The road used at that time had many alternate routings allowing construction to continue and not holding us up....we came across 2 landslide areas that had the large earth movers working on them with only short delays...total time was 17hrs...lit appears there is far more traffic now, with lots of buses, trucks and whenever this video was taken, lots of construction along the road.
The first two thirds highlight the lowlands and along the river (note altitudes on the video) with a terrain different that higher up in the mtns where will you will be trekking. Looks more like Africa. You can see this difference from Okhaldhunga on up to Salleri, the district capital of SoluKhumbu as you get into higher elevations.
From Salleri it is a 3-4hr or so walk to Ringmo where you intersect the main trail from Jiri/Shiva Laya to Lukla and on up to Namche. Taking the jeep can save you 3-4 days. If you take a bus to Jiri or Shiva Laya, the normal way, you will also have to spend most of the day on a crowded bus and there is a good chance these days you will be hit for the 2000rupee Gorishankar park permit scam/ripoff in Shiva Lava. So the jeep seems like a great alternative to me. The jeep was reserved seating and comfortable with no stops to pick or drop off people. I paid 3000rupees, the same as Nepalis.
The video does give good insight into a typical bus/jeep journeys in the hills with views of villages, people etc.
Happy viewing, Roger
Jul 29, 2013 6:12 PM
Jul 29, 2013 7:49 PM
2Yes, RockSaw, you can go in reverse...Salleri back to KTM. Like I said it was about 16-17hrs for us back in mid Mar, 2013. And we used parallel or alternate roads nearby the road being worked on so that we were never held up by construction. The video seems to show a lot of construction, perhaps now delaying the time enroute. Also the last part, if at night, would be uphill from the river to Salleri going that way or at least on paved road coming into KTM.
I wouldn't call it a desperate route/choice unless the desperate was in reference to having to walk out in the first place. As far as walking out, if you must it would sure cut off a few days. Walking out you would arrive at Ringmo along the main trail then rather than walking several hrs to Junbesi it would be about the same time to Salleri. Find the jeeps and book a seat for the next morning. That night you are in KTM whereas it is probably 3 days at least via Shiva Laya or Jiri and the bus the next day.
For planning purposes while in KTM you might get the cell number of a few jeep owners plying that route and take it trekking. Check with a few trek agencies....or even trek shops. If needed you can use a cell phone enroute (every Nepali has one and you can borrow it and pay a nominal fee if they ask) and make a reservation to give a better chance for a seat.
As someone who has walked the route from Jiri and/or Shiva Laya up to Junbesi and back many times the idea of arriving by reserved seat via uncrowded jeep in Salleri is a great alternative. The cost may even be less considering the bus fee on the regular route and several days trekking---'fooding and lodging'---- and with the likelihood of getting stuck with the Gorishankar park fee of 2000rupees having to be paid, the jeep ride really sounds good. I know some Nepalis who live in Solu and they wouldn't think of walking now if the road is open (non-monsoon).
Jul 30, 2013 12:55 AM
Jul 30, 2013 2:17 AM
4Rock Saw - here is a post about an alternative if Lukla is closed to fixed wing planes, going via helicopter to Phaphlu and road to Ktm: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=2318946
Jul 30, 2013 2:23 AM
5Thanks for posting Roger,
The Gaurishankar park charge for passing through Shivalaya was stopped when I passed through last April.. Has it started again since?
There is a follow on video about Salleri too:
Jul 30, 2013 4:07 AM
Jul 30, 2013 4:36 AM
7Bad news and a total rip off. 2000 rupees to walk through a hundred meters or so of a conservation area. No conservation in Shivalaya that I saw, it's a typical road head village. The additional scam was if you stayed at the overpriced Paradise Lodge the fee could be avoided because the owner was a member of the conservation area management body. Was that still happening Paul?
There is similar situation on the Arun Valley trek which passes through a tiny section of the Makalu-Barun National Park at Bung; 3000 rupees for the privilege.
Jul 30, 2013 4:50 AM
8Scoodly, not sure about that. We just stopped there for lunch and pressed on up the hill. I did feel like I had been robbed as I was paying for 5 permits! I also paid the Everest park fee and only had 2 days in the park, only as far as Namche! If you add all that to the cost of the TIMs it's quite expensive.
All these permits/fees seem to be going up quite a lot with not a lot seemingly being given back.
Jul 30, 2013 5:11 AM
9Nepal does not seem to do itself any favours sometimes; these examples deter people from trekking in less visited areas and spreading the tourist dollar around.
Conservation and road building do not seem compatible to me and I would expect the ACAP fee to be raised soon. It wasn't when others were increased three-fold so a similar rise would be eye-watering. Talk of online TIMS applications has resurfaced and that could herald a price increase too.
Jul 30, 2013 9:40 AM
10Thank you Roger! Good information about Kathmandu to Saleri via bus or jeep.
Info regarding Everest National Park and Gaurishanker Conservation Area hiking permit fees.
If someone is starting hiking to Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek from Jiri, buy Sagarmatha/Everest National Park trekking permit in Kathmandu. If someone can show Everest National Park trekking permit at Gaurishanker Conservation Ticket counter in Jiri/Shivalaya, s/he do not need to buy Gaurishanker Conservation trekking permit. This rule is effective from a year. I guess that many people do not know about this rule.
Jul 30, 2013 9:53 AM
Jul 30, 2013 10:23 AM
12Regarding the park fees being talked about...I trekked from KTM to do the 3 passes in mid March, 2013 going in via jeep to Salleri as mentioned above; walked out to Jiri after the trek in mid Apr, 2013. But my routing going out purposely avoided Shiva Laya to preclude any potential hassles with the Gaurishankar park permit. There are a couple of monasteries just to the NW up a couple of valleys you can visit and they have trails that contour level to just above Jiri then drop very steeply into Jiri... I did this because I knew some people there and wanted to visit AND to not get in a situation regarding the Shiva Laya payment for the last day of a 30 day hike!....I wasn't sure if I would have to pay or not as I had received conflicting info just prior to the trek.
I was told by a couple of trek agency owners that I know personally as friends that the Gaurishankar park fee is in effect and was being collected in spring of 2013. That info plus saving a few days made the jeep to Salleri and obvious decision. Of course higher up like at the Sagarmatha check points the G park card was never asked about...The trek agency owners may have been just passing on info that they felt safe in saying for potential fees.
Somewhere while trekking, perhaps by park check point people, I can't remember, I was told that if you have the Sagarmatha park permit then you will not need the G park permit on walking out thru Shiva Laya, as in #10 above. But I didn't test that cause I took an alternate route.
The situation where woman who was offering to let you pass w/o paying if you stayed in her hotel I have heard is no in effect.
Regarding the Makalu Barun park fee just because you barely intersect it at Bung, this can be avoided by a slight detour around/within Bung that would be worthwhile of course. At least two yrs ago, not sure where the office is now. If I was walking in our out from the Lukla area or Solu to Tumlingtar I would def take a small detour in Bung to avoid the fee.
PS, I agree that the fees are effecting the hotel owners, tea shop owners etc on the Jiri to Lukla portion of the trek. When you consider the potential of the fee and other possible routings it can't help but to deter some trekkers who would otherwise take that route.
Edited by: roger_ray
Jul 30, 2013 10:35 AM
13If someone is starting EBC from Jiri, buy Everest National Park entry tickets in Kathmandu. That means no need to buy Gaurishanker Conservation trekking entry tickets in Jiri/Shivalaya. If someone is starting EBC trek from Jiri without buying Everest National Park entry tickets in Kathmandu, s/he have to pay for Gaurishanker Conservation trekking entry ticket in Jiri/Shivalaya and have to pay for Sagarmatha National Park trekking entry ticket at Monjo again.
I did not hear same apply for Makalu-Barun NP at Bung. I have no idea about that.
Jul 31, 2013 4:44 AM
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