1

Try Pousada de Margarida on R. Barao de Torre.
Otherwise, some of the hostels have private rooms. There is a whole alley of them off Barao de Torre (about #`70 or 180, iirc. Look on one of the hostel booking sites.)
Or try an apartment rental. aluguetemporada or airbnb or wimdu or gringomanagement
There's not much 'budget' in Rio any more, let alone 'with character'.

2

If you don't mind staying in a hostel, then that is probably your only "budget option." I don't suggest staying at Pousada de Margarida. Have a great trip!

LW

Edited by: lake_wobegon

3

Then we can agree to disagree. We love Margarida's (and the feisty elderly widow Margarida herself), once described by another poster as "like staying at grandma's house", and in a great safe location in Ipanema. Not plush (we are quite used to modest places all over the world and this one is not atypical of modest Brazilian pousadas across the country), but we found it very homey and welcoming, and were given free run of the place. Comfy beds, big airy room and large bathroom, scrupulously clean, fridge in room, internet access, good breakfast, quiet for sleeping, effective a.c., safe, very nice staff (two sisters and on weekends, the small daughter of one of them), and Margarida, who has gone waaay out of her way for us on several occasions, and now her family.

4

Four of us stayed at Margarida's last February. We actually stayed in an apartment across the street from the pousada (because there was no room left in the pousada) and had our breakfasts at the pousada. We found Margarida and her assistants very helpful and welcoming. The apartment was very spacious and the location is perfect.

5

You did say accommodation near Ipanema, so that means you can look for something in Leblon as well as, though less desirable, Copacabana. Nowadays, budget or cheap aren't words that apply in Rio so you may be surprised at prices for even the cheapest places.

6

Whether Copacabana is "less desirable" these days may depend more on one's comfort with working/middle class Brazilians than actual dodgy conditions. I find Copacabana quite interesting.

7

What's Copacabana like? I'm visiting Rio for my first time next week. Trying to decide what neighborhood to stay in..

8

Copacabana is a working/middle class residential neighborhood, with some ritzy places along the beach. The busy main shopping and eating street is Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, a couple of streets back from the beach, with lots of pedestrian, bus and car traffic, and its noise. You can find meals at any price, and the people watching is great. Some foreign tourists are a bit put off by the bustle and the somewhat rundown look in places, but I have found it safe and fun. The wide street lined with highrises that runs along the beach is Av. Atlantica, and also has some restaurants on the side toward the neighborhood, and there are kiosks on the beach side. The end of the beach closest to Arpoador and Ipanema has the historic fort with its pleasant cafe. In the early morning next to the fort is an interesting fishmarket where the fishermen come with their catch. There are also some interesting Art Deco buildings in an area called Bairro Peixoto. (The other end of the same stretch of beach is called Leme. Towards that end, in what is known as Lido, there are a couple of streets that I would suggest avoiding, with what are usually called gentlemen's clubs.) If you are considering staying in Copacabana, make sure you know the particular character of the street you intend to stay on.

9

I've stayed in Copacabana proper twice, the Leme/Copacabana area once (just returned yesterday) and in Catete once. As has already been said, each of the neighborhoods has its plusses and minuses. I enjoyed Catete the most. Copacabana/Leme the least. I think Copa is a good 'middle ground' for someone inexperienced with travel to Rio. It's a very international part of the city and public transportation is fantastic so that you can visit other parts of the city popular with tourists.

LW

10

was thinking about staying in Lapa or santa teresa. thoughts ?

11

Lapa--dodgy during the day
Santa Teresa-- inconveniently isolated without the bondinho trolley (some bus service, and taxis that often don't like going up the hill)

12

"was thinking about staying in Lapa or santa teresa. thoughts ?"

We don't know anything about you, but I'm thinking Lapa could be fine for you ... if you fit into a certain age group, lifestyle and are a truly independent traveler. I considered staying at Hotel Marajó in Lapa (http://www.hotelmarajorio.com/index.html) during my just-finished visit to Rio. Chose an apartment in Leme instead. But I did visit the hotel and it looked interesting enough and is in the heart of all of the activity there.

I've avoided Santa Teresa thus far ... no interest in visiting ... so comment on that possibility.

LW

13

Santa Teresa is a very charming hilltop neighborhood with lots of interesting Colonial architecture, some good restaurants and bars, a unique museum, a pleasant little park with great views, and some nice shops for high-quality handcrafted objects, but is still gentrifying (with all that implies), and, while there is an interesting collection of B&Bs (http://www.camaecafe.com.br/) up there, currently is without the popular bondinho trolley as an option for transportation up the hill. It makes a very nice day or half day trip if staying in one of the beach neighborhoods of Rio, IMO.