Sierra Leone trip report (via Guinea)

Travelled in Sierra Leone in January

Came from Kindia (Guinea) to Pamelap (fthree hours - 50,000 Guinean Francs) and then changed to shared taxi to Freetown (approx 2 hour wait - paid about 30,000 Leones + luggage - journey took around 3 1/2 hours). No hassles on border although it was a little confusing - lots of in and out of the taxi. . Locals showed me where to go. The locals all paid a couple thousand in bribes (and the money changers made sure I had small money so I could do the same - but it wasn't necessary).

Initially stayed at Lakke Beach Resort ($60/night) - ok but seemed expensive for what you got. Then I just learnt that is what SL is like. Went travelling through the east (camping, hiking etc so prices not relevant). But they've hardly seen tourists so very rewarding. Highly recommend Tiwai. The river is beautiful and it is a nice change to the beach. Expect to see monkeys but not chimps or pygmy hippos (rare to see them).

Back to the Peninsula, stayed at Tribe Wanted at John Obey (great value for tents on the beach ($10 I think) or go for the bungalows for luxury ($50) - the adobe huts are not so great). Very friendly, great food, sure to meet some expats with some interesting perspectives or other travellers and there are always "western" volunteers here. Did hiking and snorkelling excursions and Bureh Beach (perhaps the most beautiful of the Peninsua beaches) is a walk or boat ride away. Learn about the sand mining. Note: Bureh Beach Boys don't exist any more because they make more money sand mining - although there are hotels here, they did not seem that authentic.

Then went to Black Johnson Beach, possible to walk here from John Obey in a few hours although I didn't (alternative was a 10 minute car ride, then 10 minute track ride, then 5 minute walk). Definitely felt the most isolated of the SL beaches I went to (in a good way). Jane (English women) and Tito (SL husband) run it. Tito is a local fisherman so you can arrange whatever local activities you like there. And they have a boat which can take you to Banana or Turtle Islands. Paid 250,000 Leones for a beach bungalow.

Caught shared taxi (1500 Leones) to Tokeh. Tokeh and River Number 2 are basically at the far ends of a huge beautiful beach. Tokeh is the local version at the southern end. I ate oysters with "The Oyster Man" - just ask - and then crossed River Number 1 with the school kids on their lunch break. There is accommodation here - 150,000 to 200,000 Leones and would recommend if you want a more local experience. I walked the beach from Tokeh to River Number Two (1 or 2 hours) - even at relatively low tide, the crossing can be a struggle. But River Number Two was extremely beautiful with a great view and one of the Atlantic's more Caribbean seas (blue green rather than grey). Stayed in a tent (theirs) for 150,000 Leones. Dinners were about 50,000 Leones. On a Tuesday it was relatively quiet but I met people who were there on a weekend and hated it (full of NGO workers and expats). I really enjoyed it.

Moto-taxi from River Number Two to Ogoo Farms (near Lumley) was 15,000 and then you can catch a poda-poda from Ogoo Farms to Lumley for 1000.

Shared taxis around Freetown were 1000-2000 Leones - Lumley - Aberdeen Junction - downtown - Hill Station. Mototaxis were 2000-5000 each.

I initially stayed at Jay's at Aberdeen Junction but had a bad room and found it dark and not that friendly (150,000). I then moved around the corner to Diana's GuestHouse at Mudgee Farm Road. Highly recommend. Friendly family run place, nice balcony etc, large bright rooms. Was trying to catch up on internet so spent a lot of time at Country Hill House (ifancy expat place and fast, free internet - just order coffee or so), Bliss (on road between Aberdeen Junction and Lumley (restaurant and fast internet cafe) and Oasis (at Murray Town Junction - walk from Diana's - although interenet wasn't always on). Oasis is also highly recommended as a mid-range place to stay.

Visited Tacaguama Chimp Sanctuary - well worthwhile - but Sat pm tours were VERY busy. Try to go in the week if you can. Looked lovely to stay and hike if you have time/budget. Had my wallet stolen in shared taxi from Aberdeen Junction to downtown (involved pretending that my door was not shut properly - FYI). Apparently you need to be careful in the taxis but I never felt unsafe anywhere in SL/Freetown.

Enjoy - SL is growing quickly and now is the time to see it - it will change in the future.

Jez