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1. Anticlockwise. It is easier and more comfortable to acclimate using comfortable lodges on the way to Chukkhung, instead of sitting in the valley leading to Renjo La from Thame with only one lodge. You would have to stay there for 3-4 days to be safe going up, but Gokyo to Thame can be done in 1 day if in a hurry in the opposite direction.

2. Yes, if you are in good shape and nothing goes wrong.

3. At some time they tried to charge that permit because the trail from Shivalaya cuts through the conservation area for a few km, but if I have understood correctly this has been abandoned.

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When the locals see trekkers head up towards Renjo la they talk about the valley of death.much better to go the other way around

3

thanks for the information!! I will take the anti clock wise way!

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I have done the 3 high passes twice now, and would also strongly recommend doing it from east to west, or anti-clockwise. It makes acclimatisation much easier and safer. A doctor friend of the guide that I trek with said in a recent email to me that when he was last in Gokyo, the wife of a gynaecologist had died of HAPE only three days previously - they had come over from Lungden to Gokyo too fast.

Below is the actual itinerary for when I did the 3 high passes from Jiri. I had posted it up on the LPTT, but thanks to all the current nonsense, most of the archive is still unavailable. BTW I am now 50 and have been to Nepal 6 times.

My actual itinerary, as previously posted on the LPTT:

Below is my actual itinerary for the 3 High Passes in the Everest region, this time trekking in from Jiri, and leaving from Lukla. I trekked with my guide, but no porter as I carry my own pack which is 15-17 kilos. As it was mid-winter, there were very few people apart from in the Khumbu valley (which was not that busy). We did not see a single other person when crossing the actual 3 passes. I also did the 3 passes in January 2010, but from Luka. For info I am 48 years old, keep reasonably fit, and this is my 5th visit to Nepal. I have never trekked in an organised group - I engage my (excellent) guide directly, and I get on very well with him.

2010-11 Everest region trek itinerary, walking in from Jiri.

Some notes:

Different sources often show different altitudes and sometimes different names for the various villages, passes etc. Most of the figures below are from the National Geographic “Adventure Map”.

Weather: generally excellent and very clear apart from snow when at Tagnag, when we took a rest day.

Generally: very quiet – very low season, with many lodges shut. Very cold at night at altitude.

Day walk means a walk without back packs, only with water, food, camera and Gore-Tex top etc.

Itinerary:

13 Dec: “express” bus from Kathmandu (bus station near Ratna Park) to Jiri – left c. 8.30, arrived c. 5.30, delayed approx 1 hour 50 minutes by a head on accident with a tipper truck – no major damage or injuries.

14 Dec: 8.30 walk from Jiri (1995m) to Shivalaya (1770m) where had lunch, then on to Bhandar (2190m) arrive 5.30.

15 Dec: 8.55 walk from Bhandar (2190m) to Kenja arrive 11.15, then on to Sete (2580m) arrive 2.20.

16 Dec: 8.20 walk from Sete (2580m) to Junbesi (2670m) arrive 3.30.

17 Dec: 9.00 walk from Junbesi (2670m), lunch at Ringmo (2720m) then to Nhuntala (2230m) arrive 3.45.

18 Dec: 9.15 walk from Nhuntala (2230m), lunch at Khari Khola (2040m) then to Puiyan (2770m) arrive 5.40.

19 Dec: 9.05 walk from Puiyan (2770m) to Phakding (2610m) arrive 3.30.

20 Dec: 9.30 walk from Phakding (2610m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m) arrive 1.15.

21 Dec: day walk to Khumjung and Khunde (3840m). Also visit to museum in Namche Bazaar.

22 Dec: rest day at Namche – slight cold.

23 Dec: walk from Namche Bazaar (3440m), lunch and view monastery at Tengboche (3860m) to Orsho (c. 3900m), arrive 4.00.

24 Dec: walk from Orsho (c. 3900m) to Pheriche (4240m). Then day walk up valley in direction of (but not to) Dhugla.

25 Dec: day walk up a local peak, the name of which I can’t remember, which is at 5150m. Fantastic views.

26 Dec: following a 2nd night at Pheriche (4240m), walk to Chhukung (4730m) – approx 3 hours. Dry and dusty.

27 Dec: day walk via south side of Imja Lake (Tsho), to the foot (c. 5300m) of Amphu Lapcha pass. Did not attempt to ascend the actual pass – very steep, and ice covered from half way up.

28 Dec: day walk to top of Chhukung hill (5833m), not Chhukung Ri.

29 Dec: following 3rd night at Chhukung, over the Khongma La pass (5535m), and the Khumbu glacier to Lobuche (4910m). Left at 8.10, arrived 2.10. No snow on pass.

30 Dec: day walk to Gorak Shep (5140m), and up Kala Pattar (5545m) and back to Lobuche (4910m).

31 Dec: walk from Lobuche, via Dzongla (4830m), over the Cho La pass (5330m), to Tagnag (c. 4700m). Very strong winds at the top of the pass which obscured trail/footprints, due to this and the crevasses it took 90 minutes to work out route from east to west side of top, rather than usual 20-25 minutes.

1 Jan: due to heavy snow, took a rest day at Tagnag (c. 4700m).

2 Jan: walk from Tagnag (c. 4700m) via the Ngozumpa glacier to Gokyo (4800m). The old crossing point on the Ngozumpa glacier (and still shown on many maps) is no longer usable – current route is much longer and very different. After lunch, day walk up Gokyo Ri (5483m) – 3 hours to top and back.

3 Jan: day walk north of Gokyo to a prominent feature (approx 5200m) north west of the 4th lake – unable to reach top of feature, as surrounded by large boulders and no obvious path.

4 Jan: 9.30 walk from Gokyo, over the Renjo La pass (5340m), via Langden and Maralung to Thame (3820m) arrive 5.40. Some snow and ice on the pass approaches.

5 Jan: 9.30 day walk west from Thame (3820m) up the Thame Khola valley to within approx 50 minutes of top of Tashi Lapcha pass (5755m). Thame valley quite icy in places.

6 Jan: walk from Thame (3820m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m).

7 Jan: walk from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2840m).

8 Jan: fly out from Lukla back to Kathmandu.

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very lucky to see such beautiful places. I've done the same trip three years ago but would like to repeat it one day.

22 days is enough time if you're fit and won't have high altitude sickness

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3. The Gaurishankar Conservation Area does in fact include Shivalaya so strictly speaking the permit is required. However, as of spring 2012, the checkpoint in Shivalaya was closed so there is nobody to check.

There were accusations of corruption and the checkpoint was closed. A member of the GCA board owned a guesthouse and those who stayed there did not have to pay the fee; other business owners complained.

I passed through Shivalaya in April 2012; others might have more up to date info.

scoodly