General Info

This time I'll write down my travel reminiscences, because these from Uganda and Rwanda may prove particularly useful to the backpackers. This trip was unlike the ones I have gone on so far and I definitely wouldn't recommend it to those, who are just starting their backpacking experience. Below, you will find a collection of miscellaneous thoughts, which I'm writing down sitting at a station, in the middle of God knows what, covered in red dust and feeling that my today's plans came to nothing.
1. The offer aimed at tourists is poor, which translates into horrendous prices.
2. The ratio of price to quality is less favourable here than in any other country I've ever been to. In practice, this means that you should buy whatever is cheaper, since there's not much of a difference anyway and at least you don't end up feeling that you've been taken for a ride.
3. Because of the high prices, there's very little whites (wazungu in the locals' language) which in itself isn't so bad (from time to time, you can see them passing in a jeep somewhere in the distance), but makes travelling solo unpleasant and dangerous, which is also sometimes true about voyages with a companion.
4. The ratio of actual sightseeing to travelling from one place to another, if you know what I mean, is also unfavourable. The situation is made worse, because of the following:
the lack of long-distance coaches that would allow you to travel at night, hence no real possibility of night travelling, since minibuses are overcrowded, the roads are awful and you're likely to be mugged. What's more, there's no timetables and the minibuses don't leave until they are filled with passengers, which can last from three minutes to three hours.
5. The best thing to do is to buy a trip around Rwanda and Uganda in Poland for about 5000 $ and optionally buy a few two- or three-day trips to various national parks already in Kampala (the capital city). In such case, the ratio of sightseeing to transport is the most favourable, while the ratio of price to quality remains as in point 2. If it suits you, carry on reading, however, the prices of a one-day trip begin at 250 $ per person. In practice, a two- or three day organized trip costs from 380 $ (an actual price they offer in Red Chilli Hostel in Kampala for a trip to Murchinson Falls, the cheapest I came across) up to 2000 $. In contrast, the cost of a three-day cruise in Ha Long Bay in Vietnam was so low that I would spend more or less the same, had I stayed the three days in Hanoi. I'll also add that you can eat to your fill at street stalls in Uganda and get a good rest for the equivalent of 5 $. I'll discuss it in greater detail in the parts devoted to each country.
6. Well, when you come to Africa for a month, you have to put on your thinking cap, and that is when Lonely Planet East Africa travel guide proves invaluable. Although it is not always entirely reliable, which I will discuss later.
7. If you prepare a precise plan of the expedition, book hotels or trips online, I suggest you give up your plans, maybe read some Kapuściński and then cancel the reservations or even the whole trip.
8. In the majority of cases Ugandans and Rwandans are very kind and helpful, however, there is no end of thieves. Nowhere have I felt that my life or virtue were in danger, but here a moment's inattention can result in you exploring Africa in nothing but your socks. Kampala and the southern part of Uganda down to the Rwandan border are especially dangerous. We didn't go there, but I was told that the northern part is the worst in this respect. I'm very sensitive to theft and I register most attempts made at my own living organism, therefore I can state that in Kampala it happens approximately once an hour, including once every five minutes at the station. Adam is more carefree and gullible, therefore he had to kiss his mobile and a few notes he had in his pocket goodbye in special taxi. If they don't want to steal from you, they will at least swindle you out of your money in a business transaction; in other words, if you don't demand your change explicitly, you won't get it. The prices are obviously higher for whites than for locals, but in this respect, the place is no exception.
9. Rwanda and Uganda are as different as Poland and Belarus – in that particular order. Rwanda is more beautiful, wealthier and safer, however strange might it sound given the country's history. Kigali was also the only place I had the chance to drink some good coffee and connect to the internet at the same time :). I recommend Bourbon Café. However, in the same shopping center, I ordered a vegeburger with chips and cola, and what did I get? A burger with tomato and lettuce, but without the vegetable cutlet and without the cola. I ordered to take away, so I was saved by my acquired mistrust, which made me look into the box. When on top of that I was demanded 3500 USh from, outraged, I snatched the menu and pointed at the image picturing a cutlet and cola for 2500 USh. Ultimately, I paid 1500, because I gave up the cutlet, which they didn't have anyway, and the cola, which I didn't want.
10. The biggest backpackers' centers in Uganda and Rwanda and places where the tourist offers are reasonably priced are: Red Chilli Hostel in Kampala, its branch in Murchinson Falls and Entebbe Backpackers Hostel – in Entebbe, naturally (the only international airport in Uganda and a health resort at the same time).