Nouadhibou, Cap Blanc and Mediteranian Monk Seals
Replies: 2 - Last Post: Jul 9, 2012 10:56 AM Last Post By: Kira
Jul 9, 2012 9:32 AM
Nouadhibou, Cap Blanc and Mediteranian Monk SealsTo start with, Nouadhibou is the first major city coming into Mauritania, but it isn't impressive in and of itself. I tried to find points of interest in the actual city and I couldn't. But, if you are into shipwrecks, there are many to see that are quite impressive just south of the city and a spectacular one at Cap Blanc. But, this info is only good for a few months as there is a team of wreck removers working hard to clear them out of the area.
I stayed in the Auberge du Sahara based on the Rough Guide recommendations. Although the staff seemed friendly, none of the locks on the rooms worked and they had to break into my room so I could get my gear. When I was leaving, the manager and two others were indirectly than directly asking for some money to help tide them over. In front of the police station near the Auberge Camping Abba,around the corner from Sahara, is a hotel called the Baie du Levriere, recommended by the place I'm staying now in Atar (Bab Sahara - which is peaceful and the Dutch proprietor is very helpful).
If you want to go to Cap Blanc and see the rare Med. monk seals, a taxi is the best way of getting there and back if hired for a time period. But I would recommend you price around if you have the time. I asked for assistance from the hotel and think I was taken. I finally paid about $60US for the morning by a guy recommended by hotel staff. This was the second guy who quoted a similar price, but 5 other sources, both expats and locals, said I paid far too much.
If you have the time, you could easily do it on your own. There are collective taxis that go to Cansado (I don't know the price). Before turning into Cansado, you will see a crossroads with big anchors. Get out there and go straight passed them for until on the left is a sign for Nouahdibou X (I think it's refineries) by a paved road. Take that road until you go over the railroad tracks. The first UNMARKED DIRT ROAD on the lef that you come to, take that. You should see in the distance some huge chemical tanks. Use them as a landmark. Whenever there are 2 roads, take the one to the left and always head toward the tanks. For a while, you will be taking a road parallel to the fence. The dirt road is marked by stones and it is an easy walk but a bit hard on cars. I don't think the distance is more than 5K or 6K
Now, I have to say the views are beautiful and the lighthouse is okay. But if your main reason to go there is to see the seals, be prepared for disappointment. I bumped into a Japanese oceanographer who told me I was very lucky to see ONE my first time going there. There are supposedly two hundred and I was expecting to see at least a few lounging on the rocks/beach as I have seen in other places. But unfortunately they stay in other areas. So if you go knowing that you won't see them, than it will be exciting if you do. I did see many sea birds and crabs and was swarmed by hundreds or maybe more of flies - not what I was hoping for.
Jul 9, 2012 10:08 AM
Jul 9, 2012 10:56 AM
2You OVERPAID ... but Kosando is worth seeing!
Is the little Senegalese restaurant 'Les Trois Etoiles' still going? If you go back that way ask about it, fantastic food!
But I love NBD ... Baie du Levrier is run by Ali, as a male you should be ok, as a single female - you need to keep your distance to an extent but he was helpful when I was sick (thankfully I was or else I would have been pushing harder!)
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