Perfect Holiday in North Pakistan

We returned last week from a quite wonderful two-week trip to Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. Longer would have been nice but vacation schedule didn’t allow for more. Hopefully we will return some day. We were traveling in a country where many friends thought we were crazy to be at this time but our confidence in our planner was well placed.

For those of you contemplating a visit to Pakistan, I can only say to do it now as seeing the wonders at this time of the year is unique and special. There were places where we found ourselves alone when normally there would have been more. Nowhere was crowded. Actually it is sad to see what has happened to tourism and what it is doing to the thousands of Pakistanis who work in the industry.
We chose to go to Gilgit Baltistan because of the unique and beautiful geography, the traditional cultures, and the opportunity to get off the beaten path. And it really exceeded our expectations. It was the kind of trip that changes one’s perspective, much like the trip we made to India some years ago. The scenery was amazingly beautiful and endlessly changing and fascinating. No matter how rugged and remote, there were always people in the scene. We had quite a bit of interaction with the people because we would stop and walk around villages as well as stopping at homes.

At no time did we feel in danger or that our safety was in jeopardy, even in the area around Gilgit. At least during our stay, demonstrations were very localized and did not seem to have impact on the day-to-day functioning of society. We were able to have some very interesting discussions with many Pakistanis while we were there. Their opinions were all over the place in terms of what they were supporting and whom they wanted to prevail but they were united in their hopes.

In our short time in Pakistan, we began with 3 days in Skardu, staying at the wonderful Shangrila in Skardu, where gazing out our window on the surrounding was totally surreal. It was a pinch yourself moment.

While in Skardu we had time to visit the Old Fort, the fascinating Shigar valley and hot springs—where I would like to have spent more time exploring.
From Skardu we drove to the magnificent, not to be missed, Hunza, stopping at Rakaposhi base camp and Chalat on the way. The Forts erected in Karimabad area by rulers of Skardu. These are the Forts cum Palaces. They along with other rescued houses and mosques would have been lost to the world if global efforts to save them had not been successful. Again we had a magical moment of being the only people inside these Forts as they opened in the morning. In my opinion, a trip to Pakistan would not be complete without going here.

From Hunza we drove to Attabad to begin our boat journey to Passu which was delightful.

The boat journey ended in Gulmit where we went to the Borit lake, Passu Glacier. we were able to do these places over two days whereas those in hurry did them in two sessions on one day.

We spent a night and day at the Duikar Hotel which was very beautiful, overlooking the Hunza valley—picture perfect.
From Hunza we drove back to scenic Naltar valley and on to Gilgit and then drove to Ghizer valley. The area did not feel at all “touristy”. In fact we only saw about 4 other westerners in our 2 days. In that way it is entirely unlike Skardu. There is also virtually nothing to buy and no one is selling anything to tourists (unlike Hunza). But that also means that tourist facilities are much more limited. We stayed at the PTDC Motel at Khalti lake which is situated at the beginning of the lake.
Our hotel in Khalti lake was quite new and very clean, but ultimately somewhat basic and no electricity at times.

What to say about Ghizer other than it is truly spectacular. In Ghizer we had a wonderful time including riding horses and camels. Great memories.
From Ghizer valley we drove the Highway to Phander. We enjoyed the landscape and getting a feel for tranquility which was quite different from the KKH section we saw the following day.

Our last day in Ghizer valley we had a tour of Gulagmoli for angling which we found totally fascinating, and retraced back our way to Gilgit. Having been to many fishing spots throughout the world, we were not expecting the extent and quality of trout fishing that is there. I am thankful that a friend encouraged us to include this in our itinerary and I encourage others to do so, too.
We spent a LOT of time driving. I knew this ahead of time, but I’m not sure I realized how much time it actually was and how difficult the roads would be. However, this was all endlessly interesting and we stopped every hour or two to take a walk.