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Info on Northern Laos ...

Replies: 7 - Last Post: 10-Jul-2008 13:07 Last Post By: dominic77

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Posted
10-Jul-2008 01:09
by: mzungu70

Posts:  37
Registered:  17/03/01

Info on Northern Laos ...

Hi,

Just thought I'd share some up to date information on Northern Laos. As things have changed since last update.

There is a Sawngthaew at 9am leaving from the Northern Bus Terminal to Nong Khiaw for 40,000 Kip. It is a painful 4 hours. There is a boat that goes to Muang Ngoi Neua (20,000 kip) at 2pm. I was told there is only 1 boat in either direction per day. But I believe there are more

We stayed at the first bungalows on the left before the Lao Student Travel Office. Good. 40,000 kip per nite. But you really do get what you pay for here.

Really great place to sit back and chill. The local baker makes some really nice baguettes. (4,000 kip).

Most of the trekking routes out of Muang Ngoi Neua were closed at present as it is the rainy season, but the caves are easily visited by a muddy path. Now costs 10,000 kip. Bring a torch, it isn't worth it without one.

Boats back to Nong Khiaw leaves at 9.30am.

We stayed across the bridge. All cabins seemed the same and all cost 40,000 kip. We met a lot of people who didn't want to goto Muang Ngoi Neua, as they had heard it wasn't that spectacular and nothing happened there. There were missing the point. It's Laos, nothing happens, but it's nicer there than in Nong Khiaw.

Good walk to the Pathet Lao Caves, about 2 km's. 5000 kip. Have to walk through paddy fields to get to them at the end.

There are Sawngthaew and minibuses that leave for Luang Prabang at 1 & 3 pm.

There is one minibus to Udomxai at 11am. Cost 45,000 kip. But as we were the only 2 going on it, the driver wanted 150,000 kip each. Somehow we persuaded him to take us to Pak Mong (20,000 kip), and we would try on from there. As luck would have it, we picked up more people to Udomxai on the way, and filled up at Pak Mong. Then we had to buy a ticket to Udomxai (30,000 kip). So only 5,000 kip more. Not bad.

Stayed at the Vivanh Guest House (50,000 kip) So clean, you could eat your dinner off the floor. Free water also. Really nice place.

Had some really bad Chinese food in town, made me want to be sick it was so awful. We heard there is a really good Lao restaurant in town but could not find it.

Bus to Luang Nam Tha 40,000 kip. About 4 hours. It does stop at the new bus station which is 9km from town. 10,000 kip each in a jumbo. No idea why they moved it there as it is the same as the old one in town.

Buses to Muang Sing leave from the old one (22,000 kip) 1 - 2 hours.

Bike hire in Muang Sing is on average now about 20,000 kip. Ride to the Chinese Border is ok until you get to the border, which we can not cross. But there is a place full of the Immigration guards drinking cold Lao Beer to rest and share a beer with them.
On the way back we turned into one of the villages and went off road (big time) till we hit Muang Sing. Very hilly, very muddy but great fun. Some of the villages have shops, so you can freshen up. Did not see any peoples in traditional clothes, but there are places to buy handicrafts direct from the source. Overall it took us about 4 or 5 hours. Great day. There are plenty of treks to do either 1 to 4 days, but we were lucky that day with the rain.
Tribal Museum, good, 5000 kip, when it is open.

To go back to Luang Nam Tha, there is supposed to be one at 8am, 9.30, 11am, 1pm and 3pm. We got there at 9am and the 9.30 one had gone, and even though the 11am was full, the driver refused to go until 11am. No idea why.

Luang Nam Tha, stayed at Zuela Guest House, 60,000 kip. Good. Was recommended by a guy we met at Udomxai. Good recommendation.

Buses to Huay Xai leave at 9am and 1.30pm. Cost is 58,000 kip. Takes 3 odd hours. You are now dropped off about 7 - 8 km's from border crossing ..... 15,000 kip .....

Why are all bus stations being positioned out of towns ..... None are that busy ......

Also Border boat cross at Huay Xai is now 30 Bhat and a 10 Bhat Bag Fee. Rip off ....

If you are intending to travel by Sawngthaew from a bus station. Get there early. They go when full. That could be on time, or later, or even as we found with one an hour early. If you want a good seat even on a bus, get there before and pop a bottle of water or a bag on your seat or like us you could be seating on top of the engine cover for 4 hours. You really do get a toasty arse after that. We learnt our lesson.....

I have found that the cost of transport in Laos has risen somewhat recently. But as they import all their fuel, and currently a barrel of crude oil is $145 and likely to rise, I can see bus tickets etc. getting higher. How this will effect the local population is anyones guess. As now it is becoming more expensive for a family to go to other cities. So do not take the bus prices in the guides as correct. They are not.

From Streams of Caring come Rivers of Love......

Posted
10-Jul-2008 02:43
by: wanderingstraycat

Posts:  1,406
Registered:  09/05/07

1

Thank you for updating :)

there are places to buy handicrafts direct from the source
good point.

But as they import all their fuel, and currently a barrel of crude oil is $145 and likely to rise, I can see bus tickets etc. getting higher. How this will effect the local population is anyones guess. As now it is becoming more expensive for a family to go to other cities.

nice that tourists can see this aspect instead of ranting about higher fares. families also have to borrow more for journey to district/province hospital & spend more to keep tractors running. heard of microcredit projs that fizzled out cos the journey to the nearest bank was too expensive.

Laos transport timetables

Posted
10-Jul-2008 02:52
by: ribblerat

Posts:  2,814
Registered:  16/08/01

2

Nice informative post Op and yes staycat it's really nice to hear people not moaning about the cost of higher fares etc ..

Travel lightly........

Posted
10-Jul-2008 04:32
by: StillWithUs

Posts:  1,123
Registered:  24/08/05

3

Thanks for the detailed pst. I look forward to following some of your footsteps in 3 weeks!

Posted
10-Jul-2008 09:46
by: Yukon_Jack

Posts:  67
Registered:  28/03/02

4

I echo thanks also, Mzungu, for providing the helpful info. Quick question: is it difficult to determine the destinations of the buses/minibuses/sawngthaew? Are there signs that indicate the destinations or is it necessary to verbally communicate with the drivers? My language skills are limited, and I had a difficult time with some unmarked buses in China. Also, are the fares constant or is there a need to negotiate the fare each time a vehicle is boarded?

Safe travels.

Posted
10-Jul-2008 11:46
by: StillWithUs

Posts:  1,123
Registered:  24/08/05

5

Fares are clearly posted at all bus station, in English lettering.

If you know the name of your destination, just saying it will get you what you need. I speak no Lao and never had a problem getting to the right vehicle. Usually someone with decent English skills is around anyway.

A sawngtheux fare can be a bit more "flexible." Agree on a price before hopping aboard. People very rarely try to rip you off in Laos, but better to be safe. Sometimes I think we paid just a bt more on the sawngtheuxs than the locals, but I have a hard time getting too riled over the extra 50 cents on a 4 hour drive...

We carry a cheap calculator to show amounts when our language deficit hinders cmmunication altogether.

You will have no problem.

Posted
10-Jul-2008 13:04
by: mzungu70

Posts:  37
Registered:  17/03/01

6

Hi,

Normally the lettering on buses is in Lao, sometimes they have an English sign also, but just ask. The driver is the one who puts yer bags on top.

Lao people in general I found to be really honest and trustworthy, like most Asians. In stations the prices are always listed and are correct. Only jumbo and tuk tuk drivers do you need to negotiate beforehand.

Calculator is a good idea. But its easy to pick up the words for numbers,

Enjoy Laos

From Streams of Caring come Rivers of Love......

Posted
10-Jul-2008 13:07
by: dominic77

Posts:  4,669
Registered:  11/09/06

7

Why are all bus stations being positioned out of towns

To keep the drivers of sawngthaews/jumbos/tuk-tuks in business?

I may be wrong but I seem to remember the southern bus terminal in Pakse being about 7km out of town to the south, and the northern one about 8km to the north of the town centre ... so a tuk-tuk ride of c.15km to get from one to the other!

NW Thailand Motorcycle Trips, June 2008 and January 2009

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