Southern Qinghai and NW Tibet in ... - Thorn Tree travel forum

Southern Qinghai and NW Tibet in DEC/JAN???

Replies: 6 - Last Post: 03-Dec-2007 05:07 Last Post By: Losang

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Posted
24-Nov-2007 01:51
by: Bantonia

Posts: 249
Registered: 03/08/06

Southern Qinghai and NW Tibet in DEC/JAN???

I'm looking to head from Lanzhou to Xining (via a bunch of places) then down to Yushu in late December / early January (cold, no doubt!), and have been told that I am unlikely to have trouble with closed passes (or roads) on that route. The issue is where to from there??? I don't want to backtrack to Xining. The NW of Sichuan (Dege, etc.) appeals to me the most but I've heard the passes around there are likely to be closed. Can anyone give some more detailed advice on which passes are the most likely to close, and for how long?

One suggestion I was given was to head into the TAR around Chamdo and make my way back into Sichuan further south, avoiding the nasty NW passes. Forgetting border issues for the moment, is this a viable route; open roads and transport wise?

Thanks!

Posted
24-Nov-2007 05:24
by: anaya

Posts: 2,463
Registered: 14/02/04

1

Your best option is to contact Losang or visit his homepage. he lives in Xining but want to move to Nangchen and therefor knows that area very well, also in winthertime.

Posted
24-Nov-2007 08:45
by: lhasaipso

Posts: 284
Registered: 09/09/07

2

you could go xiewu, garze, chengdu should be no problem its a main highway
and no visa trouble

chamdo is difficult as you not only need the TAR permit but a special permit for that town

Posted
25-Nov-2007 00:28
by: Bantonia

Posts: 249
Registered: 03/08/06

3

Thanks guys, I'll look into both those suggestions. Cheers!

Posted
25-Nov-2007 04:25
by: stoognik

Posts: 1,338
Registered: 09/03/07

4

been up thru there in feb and it was really really cold. not much snow tho. what makes it interesting is that theres no real escape from the cold a sits just little towns. dont expect hot showers or heated rooms to be waiting all the time. places like yushu and garze may have warmer options, but serxu and xiewu dont have much.
transport may be more of a problem due to scarcity rather than roads. things may have improved since i was there in 2003, but it was scarce then, and as yushu was still closed to foreigners then a bit paranoid.
been down to qamdo the year before, from garze, but yeah, its stressful. unless its relaxed a hell of a lot, reconsider. its not just the TAR thing, but also a big military presence and prisons to intimidate the khampas. i couldnt stay in hotels or go to the bus stations, and after a day or two just returned to garze. i went with a driver delivering packages i arranged in garze. that wasnt in winter, but the roads a bit dodgy any way. plenty of traffic to try your luck tho.
be aware that even getting west from xiahe can be problematic once things freeze and people stop moving about so much.
have a go tho.

Posted
27-Nov-2007 05:04
by: Bantonia

Posts: 249
Registered: 03/08/06

5

Sounds like things have relaxed a bit the last couple of years and with the recent road improvements (on part of the route at least) I think it'll be ok unless some serious snow comes in. No hot showers or warm rooms seems to be just part of the deal of travelling on the Plateau. Part of the fun? Yeah, in a weird way. Looks like I'll be coming back through NW Sichuan, not the corner of the TAR after all, so hopefully no PSB issues to deal with this time.

Posted
03-Dec-2007 05:06
by: Losang

Posts: 1,485
Registered: 04/09/04

6

The road from Xining to Jyekundo is closed due to heavy snow every winter. Sometimes it is only for a couple of days, other times it is for a week or more. The main places where the road could be closed are in Xinghai, Mado (Maduo) and Trindo (Chengduo) counties. All three of these counties sit well above 4000m and can be closed due to snow. In and around Jyekundo it can snow, but the roads are rarely closed. The pass going from Shewu (Xiewu) to Sershu (Shiqu) can also be closed due to snow as well as the pass between Manigango and Dege. When these roads are closed, you will have very few options but to wait it out.

Chamdo is a VERY difficult prefecture to travel in if you don't have the necessary permits and tour guide. If you are willing to pay the consequences of traveling solo, it is a great area to go to. The PSB in Chamdo are not friendly to illegal travelers.

Travel and Life in Tibet

Need more info about Tibet? Try these: Life on the Tibetan Plateau: Tibet Tours and Pictures and Land of Snows: Picture Tour of Tibet

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