Thorn Tree travel forum

Fujian Haaka Roundhouses (Tulou) Info

Hopefully this will be of some use for any future travellers to this area.

Last week I took a trip out of Xiamen to see the Hakka roundhouses (tulou) in northern Fujian. I had a great time and wanted to leave some tips that I could have done with beforehand...

I took a train from Xiamen to Longyan, and then a bus to Hongkeng, a centre for visiting the local Hakka villages. Big mistake. Don't bother with the trains. The bus service is faster and more comprehensive than you may at first think. I was surpised that this small village had it's own direct bus service to Xiamen for around 60 yuan and just 4 hours (or thereabout, much less than the 5+2 train and bus combo). Too bad I already had my ticket. However, the bus ride from Longyan to Hongkeng was pretty scenic and comfortable. I lost count of how many roundhouses (and squarehouses) I saw, and that was after sleeping through the first hour. It was a two hour journey in total and is generally sold as a ticket to Hukeng. Many Hukeng buses actually do go onto Hongkeng, you just pay a few yuan extra on the bus after you set off. If you could arrange a private car to tour the area, which some Chinese tourists I met had done (200 yuan for the day - doubt I could negotiate as well as them..), then this trip would be a great (cheap) starting point. Longyan was 90km from Hongkeng but if Yongding is more convenient then it's just 50km from there to Hongkeng.

I was lucky and met a man on the bus who told me all about a hotel/guide service that his son, Li Jin Yang, and daughter-in-law, Jiang Qing, operate and where I stayed for my time in Hongkeng. This was the 'Country Hotel' (Tel: 0597-5532764, Email: bestop88@163.com, Website www.tlrj2000.cn) within spitting distance of where the bus drops you off. Whatever you do don't walk though the big stone gate - that's a 'scenic area' and you'll be charged 50 yuan. I could have had a decent twin with bathroom in this hotel for 80 yuan without much negotiation but opted instead for a room in a nearby roundhouse for 50 yuan a night. In hindsight not really worth the hardness of the bed. They did let me take a shower in their hotel before I went there though, which was very kind. I'm not much of a haggler and am certain this was too much, but they were extremely friendly people and I never felt pressured into paying too much. I ate with them (for 15 yuan) and drank their tea (for free) and had a very relaxing time. The only problem is that neither speak much English. Communication via email or a translator would be essential.

I had a motorbike tour of the area for 180 yuan that lasted almost 5 hours and was extremely flexible. Again, too much money, but I was happy. Try bargaining as you see fit. I had to pay a few supplemental charges, but not too much. Chengqi Lou (the biggest) was 30 yuan to get in. At the furthest point (30 km from Hongkeng) I paid 20 yuan to view the set-piece of 1 square and 4 round-houses at Tian Lou Keng (not sure of spelling) and then aother 10 yuan to get into one of the oldest buildings at Yi Chang Lou (again, spelling not certain) which was well worth it in my opinion. We passed though many other attractive villages where tulou were plentiful and even saw a few small tea factories.

This was just one route of many. Tulou are everywhere here. You can't go anywhere without seeing them. The scenery was beautiful and the pace relaxed. Well recommended.