Thorn Tree travel forum

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Hi Eneid,
The advice is great and I'm looking forward to the rest. Some questions if you don't mind:
we are driving from Kosova to Tirana in a Croatian reg hire car, do you think there will be any difficulty at the border or on the journey?
Could you recommend a reasonably price hotel in Tirana for a couple?
How long would it take on average to drive from Tirana to Dubrovnik?
Tomas

2

Tomas, glad you found the tips informative. I will put up some more later on.

As for your questions, I do not see any problems during your travel from Kosova to Tirana. However, since you will be entering Albania from the North-East I would suggest you time your journey to travel to Tirana during the day. Nothing to worry, it is just that the journey would be safer.

If you have all the papers, especially the car insurance, you will have no problems at the border. Most probably you will be asked to pay an entrance fee of 10 euros per person, but I am not sure. Furthermore, there might be an attempt by the border guards to delay your entry so that you can pay them some extra money. IF this happens, do not worry but claim to be e journalist or something (cops everywhere fear journalists) lol. Tomas, I do not foresee any problems in your trip.

As for Hotels in Tirana there are a few but it depends on yor budget. They vary from 10 euros a night up to 255. However I would suggest you consult this site cus it might be useful: Hotels in Tirana

Driving from Tirana to Dubrovnik I would have no clue. Never travelled the distance. However, I know that it takes up to 1:45 minutes to travel from Tirana to the border point with Montenegro. So, you'll have to ask somebody how long it would take you from Montenegro to Dubrovnik.

Hope to have been useful!
Eneid

3

Ok peeps, let's continue with the rest of the practical tips I would like to share with you:

- If you drive a Mercedes Benz then I would suggest you pay extra attention to this tip: NEVER park your car in ill-lighted areas, or in less crowded areas. You are ADVISED to park your car in a parking lot, which most of the time will be one guy carrying a GUN and guarding the cars with his life. Usually you'd ahve to pay 500 old leks a night up to 1000 old leks (from 30 cent to 70 cent a night). Since the Mercedez is the most popular car in Albania, it is also more prone stealing than any other brandname. As for the other cars, you can park them by the side of the road and nobody would touch them. This is a more likely situation in Tirana and other big cities like Durres, Fier, Vlora & Saranda.

- Rememeber, ALWAYS take your car CD player with you when parking, and leave the glove compartment open so as to show that nothing of value is inside!

- When in Tirana and looking for a lovely night out then roam the 'Blloku' area (The Block Area). It is close to the city centre of Tirana and has a lot of cafes, clubs and pubs frequented mostly by the Albanian youth. Also, the cafes of Sheraton Hotel & Towers close to the 'Qemal Stafa' stadium are very popular with good coffee and a large variety of traditional and foreign spirits.

- When in Tirana, buy the Tirana City Guide 2005 (maybe 2006 edition is out). This is a useful source of information on major business and establishments in Tirana. I think it costs something like 2000 old leks (but the price could have changed). Also if you're looking for apartments to rent, or cars, laptops, etc to buy then by the CELSI (the KEY) newspaper. It is quite useful.

- The majority of the foreign Embassies in Albania are located in the capital. They are located in the so-called "Rruga e Ambasadave" (literally meaning the "Street of Embassies") which can be accessed throug the Kavaja or Durres streets. The Wolks Vagen car shop which is very close to the street serves as a major point of orientation. However the US, Dutch & Italian embassies are located close to the 'Qemal Stafa' stadium (or close the RTSH - Albanian Radio Television building).

- Remember that most roads in Albania and consenquently in Tirana are under construction. Careful driving is ADVISED. The speed limit in the city is 40 km/hr and the seat belt must be fastened. Although you will see most Albanians do not bother to fasten their seat belts, this does not mean that they cannot get fined. The road police usually pull over most foreign number plates for doc check-up. Fines in Albania are very severe although you may sweet-talk the Albanian police playing the 'I am a foreigner card' to get off the hook once or twice. lol

- During the night you might notice roadblocks set up by armed police in most Albanian cities. DO NOT fear. This is very usual. When approacing a police roadblock, reduce speed to 5km/hr and switch on the cabin headlight. This is normal procedure so that the cops can see your face. If you get asked to pull over, then do so!

- IF you need a mobile SIM card, then you can by an AMC (Albanian Mobile Communications) card or a Vodafone card. I am not sure on the price though. However, you can by the individual nr. either on contract or prepaid. Vodafone prepaid top-up cards cost 10,500 old leks (9 euros), those of AMC are 10,000 old leks. REMEMBER: Cards get also sold on the street by little boys who also sell tobacco. If you decide to by a vodafone card from these guys, TOP UP right there and then BEFORE paying for the card. They will not protest as this is a known procedure. Once the balance has been credited then you pay up the money.

- IF you will need to go grocery shopping, remember that Albania does not have major supermarket chains. Usually you have the so-called fruta-perime (fruit-vegetable) shops or you can go to the villager's market (where you'll find fresh vegetables and fruits). If you want nice Albanian bread than look for shops with the name BUKE (which means bread). However, there is a shopping centre which was recently built on the side of the highway to Durres:

Universal Shopping Centre - Albania

Here you'll find a very complete supermarket - EUROMAX- and other shops ranging from electronics to clothes. There is an ATM inside if you'd need more money. The prices are reasonable, and the distance from Tirana city centre is only 15 minutes by car. There is also a free of charge bus that takes you there and back.

OK.... more tips later on....

Take care
Eneid

4

Here I am, back for more tips. Hope you're finding them useful or at least informative:

- If you are in Tirana and you'd like to eat outside, then you are in the right place. Just out of curiosity, the 2 most rapidly growing type of businesses in Albania are: Clubs & Restaurants. Tirana has tons of good restaurants, and new ones get built every 2-3 months. I am going to name but a few:

1- 'ERA' Restaurant- this can be found in the 'Blloku' area. Just ask any Albanian where it is and he/she'll tell you straight away.
ERA (which in Albanian means 'THE WIND') has a very wide variety of traditional and foreign (mostly Italian) dishes. The prices are
relatively cheap. With 20 Euros (together) two persons can have a first, second & third dish with drinks included. The waiters speak
English & Italian and the menus are both in English & Albanian.

2- 'SERENDIPITY' Restaurant - this restaurant can be found on the street behind the 'Presidency Building', which is close to Tirana
University Building (you cannot miss this building). This restaurant is slightly more expensive than ERA, but it also features 2 - 3
traditional Mexican dishes, alongside other Albanian traditional dishes. If you go there, ask for a 'Ceaser's Salad' which is very nice.

3- Another good restaurant, and relatively cheap, is the one in the 'Qendra Tajvan' (Taiwan Centre). This is a complex building in
the 'Rinia Park' where you can find bowling, a big casino (the first of its size in Albania), cafes, and lastly the restaurant I am going
to talk about. The Italian dishes prevail here and they are veryyyy delicious. You have a great collection of white/red wines which
range from 5 euros to 400 euros.

4- If you are into posh restaurants then I would suggest the 'Piazza Restaurant'. This by the side of the Albanian National Museum at
Scanderbeg Square (the main square of Tirana). The prices are expensive, but the food is excellent as is the red wine.

There other restaurants which mostly you will find in the Blloku Area. This is the main point of reference for most Albanians becuase the majority of pubs, restauranst, clubs are there. If you have special tastes then email me and I will try and orientate you to the appropriate restaurant.

- The Albanian traditional drink i 'RAKI'. This is made out of grapes (mostly) but other fruits are used also. Nevertheless, Rakija can be found as traditional drink also among Bulgarians, Macedonians and probably Serbs. Albanians have traditionally used Raki as a drink 'for every need'. If you had a tooth ache, drink a bit of Rakia and the pain would go away; if you feeling a bit dizzy you smell a bit of rakia and you'd feel great again; if you had a light wound on your body, you could spray a bit of rakia on it and the wound would clean out. This, my friends, is ALL TRUE! However, Albanians also drink rakia with almost everything. You have it before lunch, during lunch, after lunch (accompanied with fruits or cheese or a bit of salami). So if you get invited in an Albanian house, where you will most probably get offered a glass of raki, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT reject it as it is very offensive to the Albanian host. You can take a few sips and then leave it on the table, but by NO MEANS are you to refuse a glass of it.

- Jumping to religion, statistics speak of 70% of the population in Albania being Muslims and the rest Roman & Orthodox Christians. Although, I doubt the figures are right, I wouldn't want to go against it, since I don't have solid grounds. Nevertheless, as a foreigner you should understand that Albanians have had religious harmony for hundreds of years, and they respect each other's religions. Most probably in every family you'd find different members from different religions. So I would ADVISE you to be careful when expressing your views on one or the other religion; you might offend somebody unintentionally!

- When having a friendly discussion with an Albanian, it will most probably drift towards POLITICS. This is one topic that Albanians spend probably 40 - 50% of their time talking about. My advice to you is DO NOT get involved in such discussions. Albanians can become very passionatly involved in such conversations, and it is no news that friendships have gone sour because political views did not match! Listen, but do not volunteer any ideas which might upset your host. Instead, talk about something else! REMEMBER, Albanians are great company and can sit down and talk for hours with you!

- Weekdays in Tirana, and most of Albania, are normal with people going to work as early as 08:00 in the morning until 16:00 or 17:00. After that, Albanians populate the numerous cafes until probably 22:00 in the evening. However, Fridays and Saturdays are the nights to go out in Tirana. Usually Albanians sit in cafes until 21:00, or maybe a bit later, then go to nightclubs and pubs until early in the morning. The most frequented club is 'The Living Room' which is opposite the Parliament Building in 'Elbasani Street'. The music is loud so you won't be able to converse, but the drinks are of great variety and the music is nice (as are the girls), so you can dance your night away. Here check out this link for the Cafes & Pubs in Tirana:

Clubs, Pubs, Albanian Youth

REMEMBER, if you smell trouble get out of the club or pub. Albanians love a bit of a fight and, from my experience, they can get nasty! ;-)

- In Albania, credit cards or debit cards, are rarly used. CASH can get you through any transaction of your choice. However, my advice is put your money in a bank account, and draw cash when you need it. DO NOT walk around with great amounts of cash.

- Usually, the language which will be most helpful in Albania is ITALIAN! That's because most tv channels in Tirana used to be Italian ones. However, English is also spoken by the Albanian youth so I do not think you will have much trouble. In the south Greek is the language of the day, since that's where the Greek minority is. Also if you have knowledge of Russian, it can help with the older generations.

Well, I have run out of ides on what to advice you about. If you have questions just ask!

Best Regards
Eneid

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Eneid,

Your practical tips on Albania is fantasic. I have been toying around the idea of visiting Albania for sometime while I am backpacking around Europe next year. I think I will definatley put it on my list of countries to visit while I'm there!

Cheers.

~*~*~**
Constantly amazed by the unbelievable things people believe!

6

#5

Glad you find them useful.

Well peeps, how could I forget to advise you on the most debated issue of all: SECURITY IN ALBANIA!!!!! Getting old I guess! lol However this topic needs a wider space since it is sorrounded by very contradictive comments:

OVERVIEW
Albania was a communist country for 50 years, thus law enforcement was one of the pillars on which our late dictator Enver Hoxha (pronounced Hodga) built his ruthless 'empire'. During his regime crime was a rare thing. You could get jailed for shouting profanity to women, let alone bit them or rape them; drugs were non-existent, bloodfeud which was so common in the north, was abolished by LAW and fanatically enforced for that mater. However, in 1991 with the collapse of the regime, Albania threw its borders open to the world and thus become prone to the 'forbiden apple' of the advanced society. Drugs, corruption, physical abuse, human trafficing started to flourish in Albania. The Italian mafia started extending its tentacles towards Albania seeing that Albanian gangs were very keen to learn from their "godfathers" across the Adriatic. So, you can imagine what the first years of democracy were like in Albania. From a very isolated country, Albania was free to all the goodness & badness of the world. Then the so-called pyramid schemes started to set up in Albania. People would put money in and get 50% - 100% return on it after only a couple of weeks. In 1997 the schemes collapsed, and that's when all hell broke loose. Sources say that an estimated 1.3 billion dollars of savings were lost in those schemes and Albanians become poorer than before. So the next thing they did was to loot the army bases and 1.3 million rifles dropped in the hands of the civil society.

NOW....
Since 1998, when the new government took power, security situation in Albania started to improve. Most of the weapons were collected from the people using incentives like "Get paid 500 euros for handing in your gun" (Felt like Wild Wild West during that time, lol). Now Albania is as safe as any country in the region can be. But just like anywhere, you can hardly keep up with a criminal mind, so being cautios when visiting Albania will help. This is the reason why in most cities you will feel a heavy police presence, but honestly speaking foreigners have nothing to worry about. In Tirana and the southern cities security situation is very good. The north does not fall behind, although it is advisable to be careful in these areas since the Serb army mined the area during the Kosovo Conflict. However, the view in the norhtern highlands is breathtaking.

Although Albanians have been depicted in the foreign media as ruthless criminals, drug lords, human trafficants etc, the reality is that this is the worst part of our society. Just like the Americans have the Cosa Nostra, the Italians have the Sacra Corona, the Russians have their Mafia, the Greeks have their November 17 etc. What these criminals are and do does not in anyway depict the whole society. I feel the foreign media has been very misleading in portraying Albania, thus many people still think that there is war in Albania, or that you get kidnapped in the middle of the day and held for ransom. Fariytails ....

Nevertheless, as a foreigner you should be careful not to force yourself in harm's way. Most Albanians still carry guns around with them although this is illegal, but most of the time they have it just to show off. Afterall, what can we say about the Americans that are LEGALLY allowed to have weapons?!!!

BLOODFEUD
You may have heard of the so-called "Gjakmarrje" (Bloodfeud) which is still present in northern Albania. Traditionally bloodfeuds date back to the 1300's and only become 'regulated' by the Code of Lek Dukagjini in 1400's (Kanuni i Lek Dukagjinit). This is a book containing rules that have goverened northern Albania for over 500 years. They are still applicable in the north although not as fanatically followed as before. The rules touch upon most aspects of life like marriage, family, religion, death etc. The rules also legitimate bloodfeud, although it needs to be conform ancient rules: children and women are not to be touched! Thus if there is a quarrel about land and a male from a family gets killed than the victim's family has the RIGHT to kill another male member of the murderer's family (or the murderer himself). However, they are not allowed to attack the house in which the males will be confined (probably for the rest of their lives unless the 'blood is forgiven').

However, my dear friends, bloodfeuds in NO WAY affect foreigners. First of all it is unlawful by the Code's rules; second of all you'd have no reason to get involved. Albanians, be they in the north or south, are very friendly and will go out of their way to help you. This is a characteristic which has distinguished Albanians for generations.

So, peeps, hope to have given you a clear picture of how things are over in Albania.

Best regards
Eneid

7

This old and new bank note thing is confusing...So when you are paying for something do they ask for old or new lekes? for example in a bus if they ask for 10,000 lekes do you had them a note for 1,000?

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Ok Emily,

Let me explain it in more detail. In Albania people will only QUOTE a price in leks, but will not say if its new or old, since it is easily distinguishable among Albanians. So you will need to ask.

Generally in Albania institutions, banks, exchanges always show the amount that is printed on the banknote or the coin:

For example, if you go to an exchange you will see: Lek/Euro BID: 104 ASK: 110. This means that if you have 1 euro you'll get 104 (new leks which is equal to 1040 Leks).

But if you go to a a bread store and ask to by some bread, the seller will ask you to pay 300 leks. In this case, for a foreigner who is not familiar with prices, you'd probably give to the seller three 100 banknotes which in fact total up to approximatly 2.80 euros. But in fact the bread only costs 300 old leks, which is more like .20 cents.

So, my advice to you is: ALWAYS ASK whether the price is expressed in old leks or new leks. So, if they tell you a pair of shoes cost 20,000 leks. ASK if these are new or old?! If they say old then you give 2 x 1000 banknotes (since the number written on banknotes/coins is always the number in old leks PLUS 1 zero. So 1000 bank notes is 10,000 leks, 5000 banknote is equal to 50,000 leks, and so on). If the seller says that 20,000 is in NEW leks (meaning that the actual price is 200,000 old leks) then you'll give either 20 x 1000 banknotes or 4 x 5000 banknotes.

I know it sounds confusing, but once you get used to it it is very easy.

Remember (2 examples):

ON BUSES: Tickets range from 150 old leks to 250 old leks (10 - 20 euro cents).

VODAFONE TOP-UP CARDS: Cost 10,000 old leks each (so 1 x 1000 banknote, 2 x 500 banknote, and so on)

For more, consult this page of the Albanian National Bank and familiarise yourself with the Albanian money:

National Bank of Albania

and click on the CURRENCY!

Hope to have been of help
Eneid

9

Eneid
This is so amazingly helpful, eneid, that you should ask the moderators to ensure that it is permanently archived. Here's a link to another similar old thread that dealt with Albania in general, which was similarly archived: old thread on Albania. Nowadays that one is mainly only of historical interest, and its value dwarfed by your excellent contribution.
Nicky
www.hiddeneurope.co.uk

10

Thank you so much for these tips, a very good effort.

Any thoughts about traveling in an RV/Camping Car etc. Other than the roads being an adventure.

Tom in Virginia Beach

Tom in Vero Beach

11

Nicky (and anyone else is interested), I agree that this thread should remain in the TT archive. But just in case it ever disappears, with Eneid's agreement I have added a page to my site with all these tips HERE.

Balkanology :: Explore Southeast Europe
Travel Photos

12

alan / eneid
Miremengjes
i mahnit'shme.. shkelqy'er (tho' here I have to look to Eneid to correct my awful Albanian renderings).
very good, Alan, that you're happy to use Balkanology for such gems.
Nicky

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Guys, I am glad you all find these tips useful. I have no idea though how to make a request that this site be archived, but if any of you does know then please do ask the administrators to archive it. I think it will be very useful for those who travel to Albania. However, being from Tirana my tips are mainly limited to this city, although I can go to some lengths to get you the needed information if it is of great importance to you.

What annoys me so much is the fact that there is no organised online campaign from our government to raise awarness about Albania. Once at Schipol Airport in Amsterdam, I was asked by an American traveller what was the wheather like in Albania being in Latin America and all!!!! And to top that up, on the same day a Swedish co-passenger asked whether life was difficult under Sovjet rule, and that Albanians must get along with "our Georgian neighbours" since we both had the same enemy!!!!! Funny thing was that this guy was travelling to Greece for holidays and his the plane would fly OVER Albania! ----------> NO COMMENT!! lol

#10...

Well, aside the fact that you'd have to ask for directions once in a while (although I highly recommend you buy a Road Map of Albania, thank God road directions haven't changed!), travelling can be quite pleasant, naturally depending on your internary. Nevertheless, on national roads:

- Do not exceed 90 km/hr on highways, and 65 km/hr on narrower national roads.

- NEVER take on hitchhikers, however desperate they may seem to need a ride.

- Be VEERYY careful and keep your distance from other cars (at least 40 m). You'll notice that Albanians drive very close to each other (it's beyond me why! lol)

- When overtaking cars, be careful as Albanians hardly respect any street lines or driving rules, and it's not surprising if the car being overtaken speeds up so as to stay ahead of you (the reason? -----> no reason at all!)

- Remember that Albanians usually hate cops (I guess just like everybody else anywhere lol) so if they signal you by flicking headlights twice in rapid succession, then they are warning you that there is a police patrol up ahead and that you should reduce your speed.

- If you get pulled over by steet cops (usually these are dressed in black leather with phosphorescent yellow vests on), they do so for routine doc. checkup. They might delay you just to get a tip or something, but my advice is do not tip them for any reason. If your docs. are in order then they have no reason to keep you. ALWAYS ask for their name and rank. By LAW they should provide it to you on request.

- If you get pulled over by the other cops (usually dressed in black fatigues, with their face covered, and wapons drawn) do not sweat. These are the rapid internvention police and they do routine check-ups for fugitives or wanted persons. You can recongnise them since a uniformed cop could be with them, and a van with POLICIA written on it. They'll ask you where you going, why you going there, bla bla bla. They will not cause you trouble as long as you do not become ANNOYING by refusing to comply with their demands.

- If you have tire problems than you can see a GOMIST (dunno what you call these people in English. the place where you change your tire). Whatever problem you have if they charge you more than 500 new leks, then you're being ripped off.

- ELEKTROAUT ---> these are the guys who can repair any electrical faults with your car.

Well, I have run out of ideas on what to tell you man. Please ask more specific questions and I will be more than glad to answer you.

Take care
Eneid

14

Nicky, your Albanian is close to perfect so ain't gonna suggest anything. However here's a useful online English-Albanian dictionary, if you're interested:

ALBANIAN - ENGLISH - ALBANIAN Online Dictionary

All the best
Eneid