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NEPAL - travel advice and safety concerns

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Posted
12-Feb-2006 13:48
by: stilltrekkin

Posts:  1,011
Registered:  18/02/04

NEPAL - travel advice and safety concerns

SUMMARY OF POSTS:

Is it safe to go to Nepal ?



It was requested that someone try to make a concise summary of information given on the "Is Nepal Safe" thread, relative to safety issues and recommendations for travel in Nepal. The following points are a very dehydrated and sifted version of many, many helpful posts - minus the political comment and travelogue.

I hope someone will find it a helpful beginning in making their decision as to whether or not to visit Nepal. There is no simple answer to that question - but there are some simple things that you can do in determining the "rightness" of including Nepal in your travel plans.



Because of the amount of information in this forum, I couldn't include word for word quotes but tried instead to convey the condensed and most repeated messages that bear on personal safety. The situation in Nepal is constantly shifting. Crises come and crises go. At the moment, it is impossible to predict the final outcome. For our Nepali friends and family we continue to pray for a solution to the conflict - one that will ensure a return to peace in the countryside and happy lives.

As for me, I will continue to spend a good part of every year in Nepal and work with the people in our project villages who have become such an important part of my life.



General Comments:

1. You will find that movement of "Tourist Only" vehicles, buses, taxis, vans, hired cars/drivers etc. is usually not restricted during general strikes. They also are cleared through Security Check Points on a priority basis. Use of this form of transport is recommended.
2. With the exception of one day in February, 2005, Domestic flights have not been interrupted during Strikes. If your time is short, consider budgeting for flights where this option exists (e.g to Pokhara or to to Bharatpur when visiting Chitwan, etc.).
3. Be flexible with your travel plans. Make sure your itinerary is not too "tight". Have time to postpone/delay plans in the event of unexpected situations.

4. Expect delays due to Security checkpoints when traveling on the highway – be patient.
5. Cooperate with authorities – losing your cool will not help the situation. Derogatory remarks just make the situation worse.
6. In the past two years there have been several threats made by Maoists against three upscale Hotels and other businesses. After prior warnings, small explosive devices were detonated in the Garden of the Crown Soaltee Hotel, the kitchen of the Fishtail Lodge in Pokhara and at the gates of the Malla Hotel in Kathmandu . Deliberate effort was made to ensure no Tourists would be harmed by the action. There has been no similar action taken in recent months.

7. Numerous Trekkers have reported back that they found the main trekking routes in Everest, Annapurna , and Langtang, safe for travel.
8. Repeated comments have recommended carefully research the situation before considering trekking in more remote areas. Local conditions can change quickly. Travel in the company of local people, knowledgeable about the area, alternate routes and conditions, is wise.
9. During past Bundhas (Strikes) the Nepal Tourism Board has organized shuttle buses to and from the airport and main hotel areas. Every effort is made to reduce the disruption and inconvenience for Tourists to a minimum.

10. Unlike terroist attacks that have occured in places like Bali , Indonesia, Israel, London & New York, there have been no random attacks in Nepal - Tourists are not the focus of this conflict.
11. There have been 2 situations in the past two years - one involving Russian climbers travelling in an unmarked taxi on the route to the Tibet border during a highway closure - and another a European Tourist who placed himself in the midst of a political demonstrators being routed by Armed Police - when foreigners have been injured as a result of the political situation.



In addition, several reports have been made regarding solo trekkers who have been assaulted and robbed on the trail and at least two other men who have disappeared while trekking alone and who it appears have been victims of foul play. Last Fall (2005) two small groups of day walkers on two routes in the Pokhara area were robbed at knife point. These latter incidents have proven to be unrelated to the Maoist conflict - simply some local "bad apples" taking advantage of the situation. The disappearance from Thamel and murder of two women in the Nagarjun Forest area on the northern edge of Kathmandu in September and October, 2005, continues under investigation. So, yes, bad things do sometimes happen to Visitors in Nepal , just like every country in the World. These happenings are horrendous and devastating for the families of the victims. Put into perspective, however, these are not common, everyday occurances and not a reason to avoid travel in Nepal .

Remember..You cannot help everyone, everywhere, every time but you can always help someone somewhere, sometime! Have a look at: http://whagnepal.myphotoalbum.com

Posted
12-Feb-2006 13:53
by: stilltrekkin

Posts:  1,011
Registered:  18/02/04

1

b]The following comments comprise Part II of this Summary - it was too long to post as one new Topic:

b]_Specific Comments re. Maoist Encounters
_:

1. Annapurna area – most common locations
a. East side of Circuit between BesiSahar and Chame.
b. Between Dhampus, Pothana, Tolka, Landruk and Ghandruk.
c. Vicinity of Ghorepani/Poon Hill and Shikha.
d. The route between Baglung, Beni and Tatopani.
"Tourist Tax" collected in these areas varies between 1000 to 2000 rupees per person (approximately US$ 14 to $28) occasionally 100 rupees per day for each day for the duration of your ACAP permit.

2. Everest area
a. Trekkers starting at Jiri, most commonly encounter Maoists between Jumbesi, Ringmo and KhariKhola in the Solu region.
b. The route from Phaphlu north to Lukla, also passes through Ringmo and KhariKhola and there have been contacts in this area.
c. There have been no encounters above Lukla and into Sagarmatha National Park
Tax amounts reported vary from 1000 to 2000 rupees per person.

*3. Arun Valley , Makalu/Barun National Park and Kanchenjunga *
a. North and West of Tumlingtar – "donations" requested have been between US $ 50 and $100 per group member. There have been physical threats made on several occasions – there was a report of one trekker being injured when refusing to pay.
b. The route northwest from Tumlingtar to Kanchenjunga is not safe for solo trekkers or small unaccompanied groups.
c. The exit south of Kanchenjunga to Taplejung airport is also Maoist controlled territory.

4. Ganesh Himal – to Larkya Pass, Lower & Upper Dolpa, Simikot to Hilsa (Tibet Border)

All recommended for organized group travel only. Be prepared to budget for Maoist "donations" from US$75 to $120 per group member. Nepali Guides and Cooks have also been forced to make cash donations as high as 5000 to 7000 rupees in the area north of Simikot.

5. The vast majority of these reports mention the Maoists have been "non-threatening" and polite but they were made acutely aware that the request for funds was not negotiable.
6. "Official" receipts are issued for all fees collected. Be aware that this receipt is good only for the District in which it is issued. So, for example, if you are trekking the Annapurna Circuit starting at BesiSahar and make a donation to a Maoist group in say, Bahundanda, that receipt will likely not be honoured by another Maoist Group in Ghoripani which is in Kaski District on the west side of the Circuit.
7. It is recommended if you are trekking with an organized group, that you let the Guide do the talking with the Maoists – stay in the background and do not escalate the situation in any way. Do be aware that you are personally responsible for the payment – it is not an expense covered by your trek package.

General Recommendations and Advice:

1. Inform yourself prior to going to Nepal . Research, ask questions, seek answers from appropriate sources and carefully weigh the pros and cons. Consult Government Travel Advisories and recognize that they are the extreme right of the "conservative" scale. Read news items, but remember they are often #1 on the "Sensational" scale. Build a balanced view. Remember that ultimately the final decision has to be yours. No one can give you a guarantee of safety or predict events in the future. Only you can decide how you will cope with a given situation.
2. Adhere to local laws, curfews and other security measures that may be in force at any given time.
3. Avoid highway travel during strikes if possible. If you must travel, look for the safest option. Budget a little extra so you can fly, if necessary or hire a car and driver. Use Tourist Buses. Avoid local buses, and night buses.

4. Avoid solo travel.
5. Carefully consider the added safety factor gained when you organize your travel through a reputable agent/company vs a spontaneous, do-it-yourself program – especially if you want to be off the beaten track. The additional cost is often minimal.
6. It's a good idea to bring an extra padlock when you go trekking. Most Tea Houses do give you locks for your doors – but the quality varies. Lock your door when you leave your room, even for a short time.

7. Despite the current political situation, the greatest threat to your personal safety remains the human tendency to underestimate the quickly changing face of Mother Nature and the high altitude of the Himalaya. You must be prepared physically and be properly equipped before undertaking a trek in Nepal.
8. Avoid political demonstrations and street meetings. Don't be tempted to get that "special photograph" to show friends back home or to show your support of a local issue. As a foreign visitor in Nepal , you must remain non-political as hard as that may be.
9. Avoid travel on local, intercity buses if there are other choices available. They take longer. They are much less comfortable. You will encounter significant delays at Security Check-points. The few rupees that you save will not compensate for the aggravation in most cases. There are better ways to have close encounters with Nepali people.

10. Avoid giving voice to your frustrations over delays and making rude or loud comments at security check points. This helps no one – especially you – and will not be appreciated by your fellow travelers.
11. Avoid and/or decline invitations from unknown individuals, local or foreign, to accompany them to isolated destinations. There is safety in numbers. If you wouldn't do it at home, it's probably best to avoid the situation while traveling in a foreign country. This is good advice not only for women, but any solo travelers.

12. Check the details of your travel insurance policy well in advance. Some insurers will not pay out if your government has advised against travelling to Nepal. In general the political situation has no bearing, for insurance policies, on personal illness or accident related problems when it comes down to evacuation coverage. The explanation that was given is that the Government Travel Advisories do, however, negate any claim that could be related to injuries resulting from the political insurgency.



Remember..You cannot help everyone, everywhere, every time but you can always help someone somewhere, sometime! Have a look at: http://whagnepal.myphotoalbum.com

Posted
12-Feb-2006 17:42
by: mike_r

Posts:  31
Registered:  14/11/01

2

Good advice as usual ST. Thanks for the effort.

Posted
12-Feb-2006 18:12
by: rich007

Posts:  11
Registered:  14/04/05

3

Thank You stilltrekkin,

It is really appreciated. I should be in Nepal later this year, in Nov, for the third time. So, I'm following the Nepal developments closely. Thanks again.

Vagabonding on the Roof of the World
Dream It. Plant It. Do It!!!

Posted
12-Feb-2006 21:42
by: fred110

Posts:  231
Registered:  17/01/06

4

Thanks for the info, I will arrive Kat. March 8. During a general strike, are places like Chitwan affected? WIll elephant and boat rides into the park be allowed? In Kat and Pokhara during a strike, where can you eat, at the hotel?

Posted
12-Feb-2006 23:02
by: btburger

Posts:  144
Registered:  25/02/03

5

I believe the "tax" between Jiri and Lukla is usually 5000 Rp per person, not 1000-2000 Rp as you state. At least that's what several trekkers told us they were "taxed" in Oct/Nov 2005 (we trekked from Lukla and therefore encountered no Maoists). The only people who were asked for less were from developing countries.

Posted
12-Feb-2006 23:51
by: KatyinAsia

Posts:  13
Registered:  07/02/06

6

Wow, very comprehensive, thanks for that stilltrekkin. Much easier than the mamouthly long post we were using!

Old friends pass away, new friends appear. It is just like the days. An old day passes, a new day arrives. The important thing is to make it meaningful: a meaningful friend - or a meaningful day.
- The Dalai Lama

Posted
12-Feb-2006 23:57
by: KatyinAsia

Posts:  13
Registered:  07/02/06

7


Old friends pass away, new friends appear. It is just like the days. An old day passes, a new day arrives. The important thing is to make it meaningful: a meaningful friend - or a meaningful day.
- The Dalai Lama

Posted
13-Feb-2006 01:53
by: into-thin-air

Posts:  2,395
Registered:  05/01/03

8

The Best advice on Nepal yet -- I will be arriving on 23rd and as you said, had to change my travel insurance to a different company as my annual multi-trip no longer covered Nepal because of the government advice to travellers.
I will be looking to hook up with someone to go trekking towards the end of the month and am open to ideas so IF anyone is interested then pleased drop me a line Here
Thanks again. Rob

The Best People you meet, You meet on the Road !!!

Posted
13-Feb-2006 03:17
by: neros_12

Posts:  1
Registered:  13/02/06

9

I'm arriving in Nepal in the beginning of March and hope things will have calmed down a bit by that time. I'm just wondering about the smal(ler) number of tourist coming to Nepal. It's not that I like to see the streets overcrowed with tourist but I some fellow travellers in Kathmandu or the ABC trek would be nice. So, if anybody who's there right now or just has been can tell me the current situation that would be greatly appriciated.

Posted
13-Feb-2006 03:50
by: mieke_nl

Posts:  1,521
Registered:  17/12/02

10

Link to Regine's new, long post " Back from Nepal ".

Posted
13-Feb-2006 04:03
by: __

Posts:  346
Registered:  11/03/05

11

Good to see this post finally up.

"Those who desire to give up freedom in order to gain security, will not have, nor do they deserve, either one."

Posted
13-Feb-2006 04:41
by: __

Posts:  346
Registered:  11/03/05

12

Oh yeah, here's a link to the original "Is Nepal Safe?" thread

"Those who desire to give up freedom in order to gain security, will not have, nor do they deserve, either one."

Posted
13-Feb-2006 04:42
by: __

Posts:  346
Registered:  11/03/05

13

And you can click on the >> just below the 'Return to Branch' text in the top right corner to view the latest messages.

"Those who desire to give up freedom in order to gain security, will not have, nor do they deserve, either one."

Posted
13-Feb-2006 05:07
by: mieke_nl

Posts:  1,521
Registered:  17/12/02

14

A remark about traveldiaries.
I went through the circumstances surrounding the disappearances in September and October of two female tourists in Nagarjun Forest (just outside Kathmandu) again. And I'd also like to remind trekkers of the initiative (in the Khumbu so far) with the Trekker Intention Books, to keep track of where someone was heading in case s/he would later get in trouble and become "lost".
The first woman who disappeared Sept. 3 in Nagarjun Forest, had clearly written in her diary (left at her Guesthouse) where she would go that day. Certain authorities are to blame for not looking into her diary soon after, when they had every opportunity to do so, I was informed. Several (experienced) Nepal trekkers have over time expressed their admiration and support for the use of "Trekker Intention Books" that are left with lodges in the Khumbu, in addition to the old 'mealorderbooks' and what they could provide in terms of information (name and nationality of a trekker who had stayed there).

So what I want to emphasise is that it's probably not a bad idea, especially if you'll travel alone, to use registration-facilities in lodges and to keep a diary. And - in contacts with relatives and friends - keep them aware, when you can, of what your plans are for the next few days.

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