random info on summer 2012 Mauritania trip

I've just spent a week in Mauritania, and thought I'd throw out some random info about the trip. I found these sort of posts really helpful in my own trip planning, even if they are just anecdotes. Note these aren't meant to be comprehensive or eternally valid. In no particular order:

1. Security. I was in Nouakchott, Atar, Chinguetti, some oases near Chinguetti, Choum, and Nouadibouh. Apparently there's a small trickle of tourists all the time, and the unrest in northern Mali hasn't really had an impact here. I felt safe all the time. Many locals assured me that it would be hard for bad guys to make it across the desert, and that the Mauritanian army had a strong eastern border presence. I didn't get the sense that these opinions were based on knowledge of up to date current events, but it was clear that whenever a stranger shows up in Chinguetti, everyone in the town finds out about it. So I'm confident that as of yesterday, there's no al-Qaida sleeper cell in Chinguetti. And, yes, all the police checkpoints are reassuring. I have noticed no other tourists during my time in Mauritania, sadly.

2. Ramadan. Traveling during Ramadan was neat, and I didn't get the impression that things were running any differently. Same waiting for taxis to fill before leaving. Same stopping the bus to pray. Even on the last day, a holiday, I took a 5 hour bus ride no problem. There were always spots to grab some bread. I guess I've been surviving mostly on bread and fake nutella for the last three weeks, but that's okay.

3. Summer. Sure, it was hot in the desert, but dry heat and nothing a mid-day siesta couldn't remedy. It was wonderfully relaxing, actually. And seeing all the dates being harvested and shipped was neat. The humidity near the coast was a little unpleasant.

4. Visa. Got it in Dakar easily. Showed up at 11am to fill out the form, picked it up at 4:30 same day. (I'm a US citizen.)

5. Overland route. I went north from Conakry, to Dakar, to Nouakchott, Atar, Choum, Noadibouh... and tomorrow I'm heading up to Dakhla and Casablanca. Very straightforward public transportation all along. One AC bus from Nouak to Atar. Only two flats and two engine overheats.

6. Train from Choum to Nouadibouh. fun. Was supposed to arrive in Choum at 6pm, but didn't arrive until 11pm. Got to Nouadibouh at 11:30am next morning. There were two nice looking cars, and then the one I went in (UM1000=US3). Not sure if there was a way to reserve in the nice cars, but they wouldn't let me in. The commander of the train station drove me and a few folks to the spot where the passenger cars end up, then I bought the ticket from a man there. Not the best night of my life... everyone just sort of sprawls out in one big sweaty, dirty, sticky slumber party in stagnant hot air on the floor of the car and a few benches. Yes, there are big jerks throughout the night. I didn't ride with the iron ore, because I was recovering from a head cold and consider the lungs one of the most important body parts. If riding on top of iron ore is hardcore, then what I went through inside was pretty B.A. too.

7. Camel trip. in Chinguetti, arranged by Cheikh at Auberge La Rose des Sables. UM8000 for one day. really neat.

Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions. I really enjoyed this country.