Places of interest in Yogykarta
Replies: 8 - Last Post: Feb 18, 2012 9:18 PM Last Post By: ciptasari
jump to
1
Have you not been to Yogya before, Bruce?That's a pleasant area, but a bit far south of the action for my liking. But still you're in walking distance of the southern walls of the Kraton. I like to take an evening stroll along the ramparts - if you go straight up the main road from where you're staying you'll come to the southeast bastion, sort of like a chunk of off-white wedding cake. These walls were thrown up in the late 18th century during the later years of Mangkubumi's reign while his son Hamengkubuwono II, who got himself in all sorts of trouble with both Dutch and Brits, was on the rise as Crown Prince (he built the walls, but they didn't keep the British out when they attacked in 1812)...
Anyway, you can stroll along these walls to the South Gate, which was scene of some of the fiercest fighting when the Brits attacked. Just beyond here is the southern Alun Alun, which is much nicer than the main northern Alun Alun, and yet is visited by very few tourists. In the evening there are lots of little pavement food stalls - a good spot to stop for a bowl of ronde and a chat. Watch the local youths trying to walk blindfolded between the big sacred banyans in the middle of the alun alun - if you can manage it, you're due for success (and maybe a new Honda Vario ;-) )...
The residential streets in this southern part of the Greater Kraton are worth a wander too...
Otherwise, most things are a taxi or becak ride away.
If you've not been before I'd recommend a visit to the burial place of kings at Imogiri, 20 or so KMs south of town. Even the most sceptical of bules might find themselves coming over a bit Kejawen here - and still more so if you go and make an offering to Kanjeng Ratu Kidul at Parangkusomo at dusk...
If you're not mystically inclined, however, pop over the way from your homestay to Prawirotaman, and have a latte and a slice of millionaire shortbread in Ministry of Coffee, and have a look through their eclectic little library - always my Yogya treat...
2
Thanks Tim.I've been to Yogya three times before. The first two during my expense account days so I stayed in an expensive hotel on Jalan Malioboro. The last time was a few years ago when my eldest daughter was looking at schools; we stayed in a nice place but on the edges of the city. I was looking for a place this time that was quiet, relatively inexpensive and in an area where I could do some walking when not being a dad. Your advice sounds great for my plans to walk around. How far is Prawirotaman from where I'll be? It seems close on the map, but you know how deceiving those can be in Indonesia.
4
I used to rent a bicycle to get around Jogya on all of my 4 visits there.But Jl. Malioboro is one way going to the Kraton, and it is uphill coming back in the direction of the Sosro. I didn't like the uphill, but it was very manageable.
The best of best of Jogya are things to see that are out of town.
Several times in Jogya I was approached by Indonesian students wanting to practice their English. Most memorable was the student who said in English that I should go to ''the Fire''. I scratched my head, but having been to Gili Air I then realized how and why he was mispronouncing the word he intended -- he meant ''The Fair''. So I taught him about that just as Indonesians had taught me years before how to pronounce Indonesian words that include ''ai'' in the middle.
6
My personal favorites in Yogya are the museums associated or a part of the Kraton. The Kraton itself holds what is undeniably the best collection of kris in Indonesia, even trumping that of the National Gallery in Jakarta. Most of them aren’t on public view, but if you can warm up to one of the guards, explaining that you’re a visiting professor (which would be truthful) the chances are good you might get a special look at some of these.Although out of town a bit, the Affandi Museum is fantastic as well. Young folks especially seem to respond to his work with great enthusiasm as the energy in his work is explosive. There are a couple of self portraits there that rival the pathos of Van Gogh’s self portraits. He also painted a great deal on Bali’s east coast, and his views there with the jukung and fishermen are the favorites of many
Have a great time. As you know, Yogya has some great colleges, and if one or more of your kids end up there, they won’t be that far from home in Kampung Bugis.
7
Thanks for all the suggestions. Looks like I'll have more than enough to do over the short time that I'll be in Yogya. Daughter #1 is already in nursing school there. Daughter #2 is interested in going to school there. I just want to do a little scouting around myself and see the kos my eldest is living in.
