Architecture sights in Amsterdam
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A
Begijnhof
This enclosed former convent dates from the early 14th century. It’s a surreal oasis of peace, with tiny houses and postage-stamp gardens around a well-kept courtyard. The Beguines were a Catholic order of unmarried or widowed women who cared for the elderly and lived a religious life without taking monastic vows. The last true Beguines died in the 1970s. Contained within the hof (courtyard) is the charming Begijnhof Kapel, a ‘clandestine’ chapel where the Beguines were forced to worship after their Gothic church was taken away by the Calvinists. Go through the dogleg entrance to find marble columns, wooden pews, paintings and stained-glass windows commemorating the Mir…
reviewed
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B
Westerkerk
The Westerkerk is the main gathering place for Amsterdam’s Dutch Reformed Church community. Rembrandt, who died bankrupt in 1669 at nearby Rozengracht, is buried somewhere in the church – perhaps near the grave of his son Titus, where there’s a commemorative plaque. A highlight is the bell tower, Amsterdam’s highest church tower at 85m. It’s topped by the imperial crown that Habsburg emperor Maximilian I bestowed to the city’s coat of arms in 1489. The climb (186 steps) during the 60-minute tour is steep and claustrophobic, but there are periodic landings where you can rest while the guide describes the bells and other workings of the massive carillon.
reviewed
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C
Mozes en Aäronkerk
This neoclassical Catholic church, built in 1841 on the northeastern corner of Waterlooplein, shows that this wasn’t exclusively a Jewish area. It replaced the ‘clandestine’ Catholic church that occupied two houses named Mozes and Aäron in what is now the rear of the church along Jodenbreestraat (note the wall tablet of Moses above the street corner). Despite its impressive organ, it is no longer used as a church, but rather by social, cultural and educational organisations, which often hold exhibitions. Otherwise, the church is generally closed to the public.
reviewed
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D
De Duif
In 1796, shortly after the French-installed government proclaimed freedom of religion, De Duif was the first Catholic church to be built with a public entrance for over two centuries. These days De Duif is no longer Catholic but Ecumenical, and it’s also a venue for concerts, opera and private events. If you’re able to peek inside, check out the clay friezes of the Stations of the Cross on the right-hand wall. The pulpit carvings are of St Willebrordus of Utrecht, and the organ is a sight in its own right, reaching clear to the vaulted ceiling.
reviewed
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E
Ronde Lutherse Kerk
This domed church, built from 1668 to 1671, has the curious distinction of being the only round Protestant church in the country. Falling attendances forced its closure in 1936, and it now serves as a conference centre for the nearby Renaissance Hotel. Ironically, the old church on the Spui that it was designed to replace is still in use. Next door along the east side of Singel, the house at No 7 appears to be no wider than its door – except that this is actually the rear entrance of a house of normal proportions.
reviewed
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F
Vondelkerk
Architect Pierre Cuypers’ favourite church (1870–80) suffered from a lack of funds during construction and a fire in 1904, and was marked for demolition in 1978 (a group of architecture enthusiasts saved it). It’s a charming steepled church featuring a fascinating series of shapes with an octagon at its base. People in the offices inside are happy to let you in for a peek.
reviewed
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G
Krijtberg
The soaring turrets of the Krijtberg rise in the Southern Canal Belt’s northwest corner. It’s one of the city’s most beautiful Gothic churches (built 1883), thanks largely to its colourful interior – a stark contrast to spartan Calvinist churches. A house here belonged to a chalk merchant, hence the name.
reviewed
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H
Noorderkerk
This was a Calvinist church for Jordaan’s ‘common’ people. It’s shaped like a Greek cross – four arms of equal length – around a central pulpit. A sculpture near the entrance commemorates the bloody Jordaan riots of July 1934, when five people died in protests over government austerity measures.
reviewed
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I
Papagaai
Also known as Petrus en Pauluskerk, this Catholic church from the 17th century was a clandestine house of worship. Note the parrot over the door that gave the church its funny name. The slogan you’ll see upon entering: ‘15 minutes for God’.
reviewed
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J
De Drie Hendricken
Built in a sober Renaissance style is the striking De Drie Hendricken. The gable stones above the ground floor depict a townsman, a farmer and a seafarer.
reviewed
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