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Odessa
Odessa rocks. Literally. This groovy boat, with indoor and outdoor eating decks and a 1970s-themed 'plush-porno' décor, is just the sort of place where Hugh Hefner would hold a debauched pyjama party - as if to emphasise that fact, DJs take over late at night. The menu changes frequently, and although opinions on food and service run the gamut from 'love it' to 'hate it', there's no denying it's a scene.
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Pancake Bakery
This basement restaurant in a restored warehouse features a dizzying 79 varieties of this Dutch speciality from sweet (chocolate) to savoury (the 'Egyptian', topped with lamb, sweet peppers, garlic sauce). There are also omelettes, soups, desserts and lots of tourists given its proximity to the Anne Frank Huis.
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Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs
Climb some of the steepest stairs in town to reach this small-as-a-stamp restaurant. The lure? Pancakes that are flavoursome, inexpensive and filling. We like the one with bacon, cheese and ginger. It's a one-man show, so service operates at its own pace.
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Pasta di Mamma
Casual, friendly Pasta di Mamma is supremely located for picking up a picnic to take to the Vondelpark. You can choose from dozens of antipasti, gorgeous salads and more substantial plates. The countrified-cafeteria space is also pleasant for eating in.
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Pasta e Basta
There may be better Italian food in town, but Pasta e Basta is popular with large groups year in, year out thanks to its singing waitstaff, who perform opera, standards and more. Regulars swear by the antipasto buffet and grilled meats. Reserve well in advance.
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Pastini
With a gezellig , rustic-renaissance interior and a can't-beat-it location facing two canals, Pastini wins praise for its looks, pastas and prices. Another speciality is the antipasto starter (around €12 for five choices), but save room for dessert.
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Ristorante d'Antica
Although d'Antica's three dining rooms get their share of celebrities, you'd be hard pressed to find a more welcoming restaurant in town. There's a familiar selection of pastas and meats, but cognoscenti order spaghetti al parmigiano (not on the menu) - and everyone may watch as waiters turn steaming pasta inside a wheel of cheese.
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Sabor de Maria
This catering shop sells tapas from around €2.50 per 100g, such as meatballs, stuffed grape leaves and garlic chicken wings, and main dishes like rib eye with pepper sauce, vegetable lasagne and Spanish chicken. Take it away, or settle at one of the few tables.
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Segugio
This fashionably minimalist storefront with two levels of seating is the sort of place other chefs go for a good dinner. It's known for risotto and high-quality ingredients combined with a sure hand. Book ahead - it's almost always busy.
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Sterk Staaltje
Squarely between the Amstel, the Red Light District and Nieuwmarkt is this handsome, rustique takeaway shop with lasagne, savoury pies, and lovely olives and cheeses. Lunch will set you back about €5 .
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Uliveto
In a capacious, spare atmosphere of understated luxury, this shop is lined with huge crocks of olive oil and splendid displays of Italian specialities. If you prefer to dine in, try the long white marble table when cooking demonstrations or classes are not being held there.
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Van Vlaanderen
One of our favourite French restaurants in town, with lovely canal views from the raised deck. Owner Bas Verstift will come out to chat and advise on your wine, and the fine nuances of dishes is always surprising - eg tuna carpacaccio with avocado, chicken with bacon mousse or langoustines done three ways.
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Voorbij Het Einde
It means 'beyond the end', and on your trek out here to Java Eiland you may begin to question your judgement. Don't. This place, with its super-mod architectural interior (frosted glass walls, lots of right angles), wins high praise for high French in high style - the menu changes every month or so.
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Waag Café
This former 15th-century weigh house (and later, gallows!) is now an impressive café-restaurant combining old-world accents (massive, circular wrought-iron candelabras) with new-world drinks and food, though it's rather expensive. It serves pretty good sandwiches (try the Club) and salads too, and there's so -not-medieval wireless Internet access.
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Werck
Finally, a café that is worthy of the high-profile location between the Anne Frank Huis and Westerkerk. You can choose from sandwiches and snacks or steaks and more involved mains; think chicken with smoked bacon or black tagliatelle with morel sauce. Most people come to see and be seen on the crushed white-stone terrace.
