Things to do in The Guianas
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Rupununi Savannas
These Africa-like plains are scattered with Amerindian villages and an exceptional diversity of wildlife. Rivers filled with huge caimans, the world's largest water lilies (the Victoria amazonica) and a mindboggling variety of colorful birds, cut through plains of golden grasses and termite mounds.
The heart of the savanna is at Annai, a crossroads of Amerindian peoples with a police station and an airstrip, although the biggest settlement is much further south at Lethem, a cowboy town on the Brazilian border. Although the savanna stretches over an area of 104,400 sq km (40309 sq mi), there's a distinct feel of a tight community down here and you'd be hard pressed to find…
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Stinasu
Most of Suriname's exemplary system of national parks and reserves is accessible via Parbo-based tour operators. Stinasu, the Foundation for Nature Conservation in Suriname, donates a percentage of all trip proceeds to nature conservation. It coordinates research and ecotourism expeditions, runs excellent guided trips to Brownsberg, Galibi, Raleighvallen/Voltzberg/Foengoe Island (four days) and Coppename (one day).
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Fort Zeelandia
The well-restored Fort Zeelandia has stood watch over this bend in the Suriname River for more than 300 years. Originally built by the French, it was expanded by the British before being completed by the Dutch in 1667 - the finished product is a pentagonal shape with a bastion at each corner. Set in an evocative spot offering great views along the river, it's a must for history buffs.
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Roman Catholic Kathedraal
One of the largest wooden structures in the world, Paramaribo's Petrus and Paulus Cathedral was built in 1885 to replace an earlier church destroyed by fire. It is an impressive, if slightly rickety, structure with a beautifully ornate carved wooden interior. Restoration work is ongoing so expect some scaffolding. Check out the views from the spires if you can.
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Museum of Guyana
The Museum of Guyana is a curious institution with some very old-fashioned exhibits documenting the nation's cultural, social, and political history.
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Sarinah
Sarinah is the place to go for upscale Indonesian. Get ravenous before trying a multicourse rijsttafel (literally 'rice table').
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Club Touché
Away from the Torarica Hotel area, try Club Touché where you can dance the night away with techno downstairs and salsa upstairs.
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Chi Min
A short taxi ride north of the center. Anyone will tell you this is the best Chinese in Parbo.
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Joosje Rotishop
Serving delicious roti since 1942, this is the locals' favorite for a sit-down, air-con meal.
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Iwokrama Rain Forest
Iwokrama, established in 1996, is a unique, living laboratory for tropical forest management and socio-economic development for Amerindians. Amidst 371,000 ha (916,760 acres) of virgin rainforest, this exceptional region is home to the highest recorded number of fish and bat species in the world.
Also calling this remarkable forest home are South America's largest cat (the jaguar), the world's largest scaled fresh water fish (the arapaima), and the world's largest otters, river turtles, anteaters, snakes, rodents, eagles and caimans.
Unlike a national park, Iwokrama is not funded by the government and must therefore take a very realistic approach of how to keep afloat…
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Kaieteur Falls
You may have been to Angel or Iguazú falls, seen Niagara or not even be particularly interested in waterfalls; it doesn't matter, go to Kaieteur Falls. Watching 30,000 gallons of water per second be shot out over a 250m (820ft) cliff in the middle of a misty, ancient jungle without another tourist in sight is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The brave (or crazy) can actually stand at the top of the falls and gaze over the precipice. Depending on the season, the falls are from 76m (250ft) to 122m (400ft) wide. Swifts nest under the falls' overhang and dart in and out of the waters around sunset each night. On the walk to the falls look for outrageously showy, scarlet…
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Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands)
the Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) are 15km (9mi) north of Kourou over choppy, shark-infested waters. Originally an escape for 18th-century colonists, the Îles then became prisons, home to over 2000 convicts, many of whom died from the inhumane condition in which they were kept.
The prison closed in 1946 and the islands have once again become a peaceful natural delight - with a dark past. Île Royale, once the administrative headquarters of the penal settlement, has several restored prison buildings, while the smaller Île St Joseph, with it's eerie solitary confinement cells, has been left to shrieking cicadas and an overgrowth of coconut palms. The infamous Île du…
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Palumeu
On the banks of the Tapanahoni River, Palumeu is a tranquil Amerindian village that has begun to welcome visitors in the hope of creating a sustainable future outside of the logging and hunting industries. It provides a rare chance for travelers to stay in a comfortable rainforest lodge deep in the heart of Suriname and get about in a dugout canoe.
Those with the urge to do it the hard way may want to brave the eight- to 12-day river journey to Palumeu from Albina. The less gung-ho will enjoy the one-hour flight from Paramaribo, taking in views of Mt Kasikasima rising dramatically out of the forest. Accommodation is in basic but comfortable Amerindian-style huts that are…
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Shell Beach Adventures
Although it's possible to visit the interior of Guyana independently, you won't scrape beyond the surface without a good guide. Look for tours that are sensitive to the environment and for programs co-run by Amerindians; investing in this type of tourism helps Guyana develop a path to a sustainable future. Annette at Shell Beach Adventures has infectious enthusiasm for sea turtles, Amerindian cultures and rain-forest preservation and runs some of the best tours in the country.
Arrange eco/socio-friendly three-day or more trips along the coast to observe the sea turtles during egg-laying season (March/April to August) or adventurous jaunts to the interior; this company…
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Rémire-Montjoly
Collectively known as Rémire-Montjoly (though actually two separate towns) this area of long sweeping beaches offers some of the best waterfront in the country; unfortunately it's often plagued by biting sand flies.
Plage Montjoly is the best of the beaches, accessible by bus or taxi, and its breezy waters are drawing increasing numbers of kitesurfers - there are no rentals or schools, but those with their own gear can ask around the beach for more information. The Montjoly area has historical ruins at Fort Diamant as well as hiking trails along the lakes at Le Rorota and to the top of Montagne du Mahury, which offer stunning views. It's a 5km (3mi) hike into Grand…
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Raleighvallen Nature Reserve
Raleighvallen Nature Reserve (Raleigh Falls) is situated on the upper Coppename River and is known for its rich birdlife, many monkey species and, of course, spectacular waterfalls. Part of the Central Suriname Nature Reserve, lucky visitors may catch sight of the all-orange, all-dancing Cock-of-the-Rock strutting about.
In the heart of this remote forest is Voltzberg, a 240m (790ft) granite dome accessible by a 2.5-hour jungle trail and then a steep ascent of its face. Climb it at sunrise when the views of the forest canopy are unbelievable. Stinasu, Suriname's Foundation for Nature Conservation, run guided tours and provide tourist lodges on Foengoe Island. It's a…
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Botanical Gardens
Georgetown's Botanical Gardens are worth visiting for plants but also for bird-watching. The garden's zoo is a depressing collection not recommended for animal lovers. The only highlight is the manatees that swim in the zoo canal, offering remarkably close glimpses of these shy creatures.
The garden's zoo is a depressing collection not recommended for animal lovers. The open court on the block south of the botanical gardens is the Square of the Revolution, which houses the monument to Cuffy, famous leader and hero of the 1763 rebellion on the Berbice sugar estate; the unusual statue which exaggerates the proportions of the human form, is characteristic of Western Africa.
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Director's House
The old director's house on Île Royale, administrative center of the former penal colony, contains an interesting English-language history display and temporary exhibits; two-hour guided tours of the island (usually in French) begin here. Surprisingly abundant local wildlife includes macaws, agoutis, capuchins and sea turtles.
Carry a swimsuit and towel to take advantage of the white-sand beach on St Joseph; it's a refreshing place for a shallow dip but be extremely careful of the dangerous currents. The Centre Spatial Guyanais has a huge infrared camera on Île Royale and the islands are evacuated when there is an eastward launch from the space center.
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Galibi Nature Reserve
Galibi's turtle-nesting area hosts hordes of sea turtles, including the giant leatherback, during egg-laying season (April through August). The leatherback is a massive reptile, which can grow to over 2.5m (8.2ft) and weigh over 900kg (2000lbs), and watching the females drag themselves up the beach to nest is an unforgettable sight.
The reserve is a 13km (8mi) strip of beach which is also an important hatchery for green, hawksbill and olive ridley turtles.
You can get there from Albina with permission from Carib Indians and a hired canoe, or, more easily, from Paramaribo with Stinasu. Find them at Cornelis Jongbawstraat 14, Paramaribo.
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Couleurs Amazone
French Guiana's pristine jungles are impenetrable and dangerous without a good guide. There are several respectable Cayenne-based tour agencies that run a few of their own tours, but more often they hire out guides throughout the country and take a commission on their services. The better of these include Couleurs Amazone, who offer a bit of everything as well as wilderness boot camps - a must if you're planning on trying out for Survivor.
A cheaper tour alternative is to go directly to local guides in the specific region you want to explore; you can easily find guides like these at places of lodging throughout French Guiana.
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JAL Voyages
French Guiana's pristine jungles are impenetrable and dangerous without a good guide. There are several respectable Cayenne-based tour agencies that run a few of their own tours, but more often they hire out guides throughout the country and take a commission on their services. The better of these include JAL Voyages, whose most popular jaunt is an overnight on a floating carbet in Kaw.
A cheaper tour alternative is to go directly to local guides in the specific region you want to explore; you can easily find guides like these at places of lodging throughout French Guiana.
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Central Market
Sprawling along the waterfront, the frenzied central market is just the place to get an earful, eyeful and gutful of all Parbo has to offer. It's really three markets in one. The nearly ominous Maroon market is full of bones, sticks, feathers, caged monkeys and various tonics and fruits for ceremonial and medicinal purposes.
The sprawling Asian and Indian market sells all the unnecessary plastic objects and beautiful foodstuffs you could ever hope to find. Closest to the river is the raucous, winding, outdoor fish market, where you can watch fishermen unload their boats.
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Cacao
A tiny slice of Laos in Guiana, Cacao is a village of sparkling clear rivers, vegetable plantations and no-nonsense wooden houses on stilts. The Hmong refugees, who left Laos in the 1970s, keep their town a safe, peaceful haven and it's now a favorite weekend trip for locals from Cayenne.
Sunday, market day, is the best time for a visit (go by 10:00, before the tour buses arrive) if you want to shop for Hmong embroidery and weaving, and to feast on a smorgasbord of Laotian treats. If you're looking for a quieter escape you'll be the only visitor in town mid-week.
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Nieuw Nickerie
Suriname's second city is a little sleepy and non-descript. At the heart of the country's rice production area, well-loved by mosquitoes, Nieuw Nickerie is a good stopover on your way to the beautifully named South Drain where the ferry to Guyana departs. Bird-watchers should hire a local fisherman to take them through the Bigi-Pan, a protected area.
This expanse of marshland and mangrove is home to a spectacular number of shorebirds, with red ibis and fish hawks among the highlights. The Residence Inn at Nieuw Nickerie should be able to organize a tour guide.
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Maison de la Reserve Natural l'Amana
Amerindian settlements and thick clouds of mosquitoes populate Awala-Yalimopo and Plage Les Hattes, one of the world's most spectacular nesting sites for giant leatherback turtles. The reserve has a small museum, offers information about turtle biology and has two nature trails leading from its premises.
Nesting occurs from April to July and the eggs hatch between July and September. The number of turtles that come ashore is so high that one biologist likened the scene to a tank battle. You simply must visit this place during turtle egg-laying season.
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