The interior is dominated by Kaieteur National Park. You may have been to Angel or Iguazú Falls, seen Niagara or not even be particularly interested in waterfalls; it doesn’t matter, go to Kaieteur Falls (www.kaieteurpark.gov.gy). Watching 30, 000 gallons of water per second be shot out over a 250m cliff (allegedly making this the highest single-drop falls in the world) in the middle of a misty, ancient jungle without another tourist in sight is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The brave (or crazy) can actually stand at the top of the falls and gaze over the precipice. Depending on the season, the falls are from 76m to 122m wide. Swifts nest under the falls’ overhang and dart in and out of the waters around sunset each night. On the walk to the falls look for scarlet red cock-of-the-rock birds and miniscule golden frogs, an incredible, rare critter that can be used to produce a voodoo poison 160, 000 times more potent than cocaine.
Many people just go for the day by air from Georgetown and you can often arrange to see Orinduik Falls in the same day. Orinduik is a 15-minute flight south of Kaieteur, drops 80ft and is a good place to swim (a dip at Kaieteur would surely be your last). Several operators offer day trips in small planes (about US$210); make early inquiries and be flexible, since the flights go only when a full load of five to eight passengers can be arranged (usually on weekends).
It’s possible to stay in a rustic lodge (per person US$12) at Kaieteur – book through Air Services Ltd (222-4357; www.airservicesltd.com; Ogle Aerodrome, Georgetown) for a bed, a flight and help with organizing food (weight limits make it difficult to bring your own). If you have the time, take the challenging but spectacular overland route to Kaieteur that takes around five days.