Although it's possible to visit the interior of Guyana independently, you won't scrape beyond the surface without a good guide. Look for tours that are sensitive to the environment and for programs co-run by Amerindians; investing in this type of tourism helps Guyana develop a path to a sustainable future. Annette at Shell Beach Adventures has infectious enthusiasm for sea turtles, Amerindian cultures and rain-forest preservation and runs some of the best tours in the country.

Arrange eco/socio-friendly three-day or more trips along the coast to observe the sea turtles during egg-laying season (March/April to August) or adventurous jaunts to the interior; this company works to integrate sustainable tourism programs involving Amerindian peoples living in these areas.