Sights in French Guiana
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Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands)
the Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) are 15km (9mi) north of Kourou over choppy, shark-infested waters. Originally an escape for 18th-century colonists, the Îles then became prisons, home to over 2000 convicts, many of whom died from the inhumane condition in which they were kept.
The prison closed in 1946 and the islands have once again become a peaceful natural delight - with a dark past. Île Royale, once the administrative headquarters of the penal settlement, has several restored prison buildings, while the smaller Île St Joseph, with it's eerie solitary confinement cells, has been left to shrieking cicadas and an overgrowth of coconut palms. The infamous Île du Di…
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Rémire-Montjoly
Collectively known as Rémire-Montjoly (though actually two separate towns) this area of long sweeping beaches offers some of the best waterfront in the country; unfortunately it's often plagued by biting sand flies.
Plage Montjoly is the best of the beaches, accessible by bus or taxi, and its breezy waters are drawing increasing numbers of kitesurfers - there are no rentals or schools, but those with their own gear can ask around the beach for more information. The Montjoly area has historical ruins at Fort Diamant as well as hiking trails along the lakes at Le Rorota and to the top of Montagne du Mahury, which offer stunning views. It's a 5km (3mi) hike into Grand Matou…
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Director's House
The old director's house on Île Royale, administrative center of the former penal colony, contains an interesting English-language history display and temporary exhibits; two-hour guided tours of the island (usually in French) begin here. Surprisingly abundant local wildlife includes macaws, agoutis, capuchins and sea turtles.
Carry a swimsuit and towel to take advantage of the white-sand beach on St Joseph; it's a refreshing place for a shallow dip but be extremely careful of the dangerous currents. The Centre Spatial Guyanais has a huge infrared camera on Île Royale and the islands are evacuated when there is an eastward launch from the space center.
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Cacao
A tiny slice of Laos in Guiana, Cacao is a village of sparkling clear rivers, vegetable plantations and no-nonsense wooden houses on stilts. The Hmong refugees, who left Laos in the 1970s, keep their town a safe, peaceful haven and it's now a favorite weekend trip for locals from Cayenne.
Sunday, market day, is the best time for a visit (go by 10:00, before the tour buses arrive) if you want to shop for Hmong embroidery and weaving, and to feast on a smorgasbord of Laotian treats. If you're looking for a quieter escape you'll be the only visitor in town mid-week.
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Maison de la Reserve Natural l'Amana
Amerindian settlements and thick clouds of mosquitoes populate Awala-Yalimopo and Plage Les Hattes, one of the world's most spectacular nesting sites for giant leatherback turtles. The reserve has a small museum, offers information about turtle biology and has two nature trails leading from its premises.
Nesting occurs from April to July and the eggs hatch between July and September. The number of turtles that come ashore is so high that one biologist likened the scene to a tank battle. You simply must visit this place during turtle egg-laying season.
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Camp de la Transportation
See the creepy Camp de la Transportation, which includes tiny cells, leg shackles and dorm-style toilets (known to prisoners as the 'love room'). You can visit public execution areas that have been restored just enough to keep them dark and eerie.
One cell has Papillon's name engraved near the bed but whether this was really his cell is up for debate. Convicts arrived in boatloads of 500-600 men after a 20-day crossing of the Atlantic. Most of the camp can only be seen on a guided tour. Pay at the tourist office.
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Îles du Salut
The Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) are best known for the notorious prison. Île Royale, once the administrative headquarters, now has the best restored prison buildings including the restaurant/auberge. Île St Joseph, with its creepy solitary-confinement cells, has been left to be eaten up by the jungle, which only makes its ghosts feel more alive.
Île du Diable was home to political prisoners, including Alfred Dreyfus, but is now closed to the public because of hazardous currents.
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Camp de la Transportation
Most of the creepy Camp de la Transportation, the processing area for arriving prisoners, can only be seen on a guided hour and half hour tour -pay at the tourist office. See the leg shackles, tiny cells, public execution areas and more - restored just enough to keep them dark and eerie.
One cell has Papillion's name engraved near the bed but whether this was really his cell is up to debate. Convicts arrived by boatfuls of 500 to 600 men and it took 20 days to cross the Atlantic.
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Center Spatial Guyanais
Satellite launching is big business and it's unlikely you'll ever come across a more interesting place to learn about it than here. Hop on a guided bus tour of the launchers and control room of the world's most active satellite rocket center. And check out the Space Museum, which takes the fun beyond satellites and into outer space.
Tours are in French but it's possible to get an English- or German-speaking guide if you have a group and organise far enough in advance.
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Réserve Animalière Macourienne
What starts out looking like a few depressing caged snakes and birds, leads into a Heart-of-Darkness-like jungle with huge jaguar enclosures, harpy eagles, caimans and sloths. Further on there's a 2km (1.2mi) nature trail where wild monkeys abound; apparently there's a jaguar that frequents the area.
Don't miss the feeding of the spectacled caimans at 18:00 and the jaguars at 17:00 on Sundays.
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Musée Départemental
In central Cayenne, the fascinating Musée Départemental features a frighteningly large stuffed black caiman, as well as other preserved local critters, an ethnobotanical display, and an airconditioned 'butterfly room,' easily missed because it is poorly marked.
The upstairs area recaptures life in the old penal colony and displays some Amerindian handicrafts.
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Trésor & Kaw Nature Reserves
The Trésor Nature Reserve is one of French Guiana's most accessible primary rainforest areas. Wander Trésor's 1.75km (1mi) botanical trail to experience its rich diversity and protected wildlife. Trésor borders the mysterious forests and swamps of the Kaw Nature Reserve, an excellent place to observe caiman and spectacular water birds like the scarlet ibis.
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Musée Départemental
The centrally located Musée Départemental features a frighteningly large stuffed black caiman, as well as other preserved local critters, an ethnobotanical display, and an airconditioned 'butterfly room', easily missed because it is poorly marked.
The upstairs area recaptures life in the old penal colony and displays some Amerindian handicrafts.
reviewed
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Centre Spatial Guyanais
The space center is Kourou's star attraction, with cool three-hour tours including a visit. Since 1980, two-thirds of the world's commercial satellites have been launched from here. The launch site is the only one in the world this close to the equator, where the earth spins significantly faster, giving the rockets a slingshot effect.
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Musèe de l'Espace
Don't miss the excellent Musèe de l'Espace (Space Museum) inside the Centre Spatial Guyanais. The informative displays depicting the launch history of the center are in English and French. Even if you're not a wannabe astronaut or closet Trekkie, there's lots of absorbing stuff to get through here.
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Sinnamary
This friendly village of 3500 people includes an Indonesian community that produces fine woodwork, jewelry, pottery and folk art. Don't leave the area without hiking at least part of the 20km (12mi) Pripri Yiyi trail (trailhead at La Maison de la Nature just out of town) for great bird-watching.
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Main Market
Cayenne's Main Market, is a vibrant jumble of Hmong handicrafts, African-style paintings, piles of exotic spices (with great bargains on saffron!) and science fiction-looking fruits and veggies. The indoor soup stalls serve up the best Vietnamese pho in the Guianas.
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Musée des Cultures Guyanaises
The Musée des Cultures Guyanaises devotes itself to Guiana's early history, from it's geologic formation through pre-colonial, Amerindian times. It houses a relaxing, air-conditioned library (upstairs) with publications in French, English and various other languages.
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Musée des Cultures Guyanaises
The Musée des Cultures Guyanaises devotes itself to Guiana's early history, from its geologic formation through pre-colonial, Amerindian times. It houses a relaxing, air-conditioned library (upstairs) with publications in French, English and various other languages.
reviewed
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Emerald Jungle Village
This is one of the better places to organize an eco-excursion to eastern French Guiana. Joep Moonen, a biologist and conservationist of the Trésor Nature Reserve, and his wife, Marijke, run this dusty lodge and offer one of the warmest welcomes in the Guianas.
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Fort Cépérou
The remains of the 17th-century Fort Cépérou may not look like much, but the views of the town, the port and the Cayenne River make a visit worthwhile. The fort was built on land bought by the first French colonists from the Galibi Indians in 1643.
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Javouhey
This Hmong village has a delightful Sunday market without the crowds found in Cacao. Largely populated by refugee families from Thailand, the relatively recent Hmong settlement has proven to be one of the most successful in the world.
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Mana
Northeast of St Laurent by an oft-potholed road lies the rustic village of Mana, which boasts a particularly scenic waterfront on the Mana River, considered one of the loveliest and least-spoiled rivers in northern South America.
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Arche de Noe
Crikey! If you ever wanted to nuzzle up to a giant anaconda, here's your chance at Arche de Noe, an interactive zoo that is also home to the world's only 'ocema,' a cross between an ocelot and a puma.
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Botanical Gardens
Escape city fumes across town at the sizable Botanical Gardens created in 1879, which today flourishes with a diverse selection of Guianese flora.
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