Introducing Îles du Salut
Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) are 15km north of Kourou over choppy, shark-infested waters. For 18th-century colonists the islands were an escape from mainland fever and malaria because the sea breezes kept mosquitoes away. The prisons came later, along with more than 2000 convicts, many of whom died from the inhumane conditions in which they were kept. The prison closed in 1947 and the islands have again become a lackadaisical delight – although the modern-day mosquitoes don’t seem any less ferocious than those on the mainland.
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Île Royale, once the administrative headquarters of the penal settlement, has several restored prison buildings including the restaurant/auberge, while the smaller Île St Joseph, with it’s eerie solitary-confinement cells, has been left to shrieking cicadas and an over-growth of coconut palms. Île du Diable was home to political prisoners, including Alfred Dreyfus, and is now closed to the public because of hazardous currents. During the prison years, the island was linked to Île Royale by a 225m supply cable.
The old director’s house (10am-4:30pm Tue-Sun) contains an interesting English-language history display and temporary exhibits; two-hour guided tours of Île Royale (usually in French, US$6) begin here. Surprisingly abundant wildlife includes macaws, agoutis, capuchins and sea turtles. Carry a swimsuit and towel to take advantage of the white sand beach on St Joseph; it’s a refreshing place for a shallow dip but be extremely careful of the dangerous currents. The Centre Spatial Guyanais has a huge infrared camera on Île Royale and the islands are evacuated when there is an eastward launch from the space center.
Last updated: Mar 2, 2009
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