Things to do in Cayenne
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Rémire-Montjoly
Collectively known as Rémire-Montjoly (though actually two separate towns) this area of long sweeping beaches offers some of the best waterfront in the country; unfortunately it's often plagued by biting sand flies.
Plage Montjoly is the best of the beaches, accessible by bus or taxi, and its breezy waters are drawing increasing numbers of kitesurfers - there are no rentals or schools, but those with their own gear can ask around the beach for more information. The Montjoly area has historical ruins at Fort Diamant as well as hiking trails along the lakes at Le Rorota and to the top of Montagne du Mahury, which offer stunning views. It's a 5km (3mi) hike into Grand Matou…
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Couleurs Amazone
French Guiana's pristine jungles are impenetrable and dangerous without a good guide. There are several respectable Cayenne-based tour agencies that run a few of their own tours, but more often they hire out guides throughout the country and take a commission on their services. The better of these include Couleurs Amazone, who offer a bit of everything as well as wilderness boot camps - a must if you're planning on trying out for Survivor.
A cheaper tour alternative is to go directly to local guides in the specific region you want to explore; you can easily find guides like these at places of lodging throughout French Guiana.
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JAL Voyages
French Guiana's pristine jungles are impenetrable and dangerous without a good guide. There are several respectable Cayenne-based tour agencies that run a few of their own tours, but more often they hire out guides throughout the country and take a commission on their services. The better of these include JAL Voyages, whose most popular jaunt is an overnight on a floating carbet in Kaw.
A cheaper tour alternative is to go directly to local guides in the specific region you want to explore; you can easily find guides like these at places of lodging throughout French Guiana.
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Cacao
A tiny slice of Laos in Guiana, Cacao is a village of sparkling clear rivers, vegetable plantations and no-nonsense wooden houses on stilts. The Hmong refugees, who left Laos in the 1970s, keep their town a safe, peaceful haven and it's now a favorite weekend trip for locals from Cayenne.
Sunday, market day, is the best time for a visit (go by 10:00, before the tour buses arrive) if you want to shop for Hmong embroidery and weaving, and to feast on a smorgasbord of Laotian treats. If you're looking for a quieter escape you'll be the only visitor in town mid-week.
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Takari Tour
French Guiana's pristine jungles are impenetrable and dangerous without a good guide. There are several respectable Cayenne-based tour agencies that run a few of their own tours, but more often they hire out guides throughout the country and take a commission on their services. The better of these include Takari Tour, the oldest and most respected operator.
A cheaper tour alternative is to go directly to local guides in the specific region you want to explore; you can easily find guides like these at places of lodging throughout French Guiana.
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Musée Départemental
The centrally located Musée Départemental features a frighteningly large stuffed black caiman, as well as other preserved local critters, an ethnobotanical display, and an airconditioned 'butterfly room', easily missed because it is poorly marked.
The upstairs area recaptures life in the old penal colony and displays some Amerindian handicrafts.
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Food Stalls
For the best bang for your buck, slurp noodles at Cayenne's market by day and browse the food stalls by night for delicious crepes, Indonesian fried rice or greasy hamburgers and sandwiches - all of them very cheap. Between the market, small Chinese grocery stores and some scattered supermarkets make self-catering a breeze.
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Main Market
Cayenne's Main Market, is a vibrant jumble of Hmong handicrafts, African-style paintings, piles of exotic spices (with great bargains on saffron!) and science fiction-looking fruits and veggies. The indoor soup stalls serve up the best Vietnamese pho in the Guianas.
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Musée des Cultures Guyanaises
The Musée des Cultures Guyanaises devotes itself to Guiana's early history, from its geologic formation through pre-colonial, Amerindian times. It houses a relaxing, air-conditioned library (upstairs) with publications in French, English and various other languages.
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Fort Cépérou
The remains of the 17th-century Fort Cépérou may not look like much, but the views of the town, the port and the Cayenne River make a visit worthwhile. The fort was built on land bought by the first French colonists from the Galibi Indians in 1643.
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Gadecoop
If this is your only stop in South America and you are dying to buy handicrafts, try GADECOOP, a cooperative of Amerindian artists where proceeds go directly to the villagers; quality and prices are better here than elsewhere in French Guiana.
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Les Pyramides
This superb eat-in-or-take-out Middle Eastern restaurant makes a range of Mediterranean and Egyptian fare, including a hearty couscous. Once you've tried the street stalls and the budget-end delicacies, Les Pyramides is worth the splurge.
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Acropolys
While many Cayenne nightclubs pop up, burn bright for a while and then disappear just as quickly, the Greek-themed Acropolys is one that continues to be popular. Just so you know, it pumps out Zouk and international music.
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Place des Palmistes Food Stalls
Browse the nighttime food stalls for delicious crepes, Indonesian fried rice or greasy hamburgers and sandwiches. Small Chinese grocery stores and some scattered supermarkets make self-catering a breeze.
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Crêp'in
One of the only places in town serving a complete breakfast. Come back again for a lunch of salads, sandwiches, sweet and savory crepes and fresh juices.
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Botanical Gardens
Escape city fumes across town at the sizable Botanical Gardens created in 1879, which today flourishes with a diverse selection of Guianese flora.
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Bar Les Palmistes
Shady Place des Palmistes, which usually harbors a few strays from the local crack scene, is best observed from afar at the Bar Les Palmistes.
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Le Café Crème
Get Parisian-style coffee, sizable sandwiches and delicate pastries at this sidewalk café à la Française.
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Harry's Bar
Nonstop jazz, blues and Latin music warm up this cozy, fun bar that boasts 50 brands of whiskey, and nearly as many beers.
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Denis
One of the best of a slew of affordable Chinese restaurants. This friendly place has something on the menu for everyone.
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AJC
Offers the biggest selection of books and maps, including Institut Géographique National topographic maps.
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Porta Verde
A Brazilian locals' favorite, get a buffet lunch priced by the kilo. Dinner is by reservation only.
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La Kaz Kréòl
Traditional and modern Creole fare is elaborately presented at this highly respected restaurant.
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L'Entracte
Eat the cheapest (but tasty!) pizza in town while admiring movie posters that cover the walls.
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