Things to do in Upper Southern Gulf
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Plearn Wan
More of an art installation than a commercial enterprise, Plearn Wan is a vintage village containing stylized versions of old-fashioned shophouses that once occupied the Thai-Chinese districts of Bangkok and Hua Hin. There's a pharmacy selling (well actually displaying) roots, powders and other concoctions that Thai grandmothers once used; a music store specialising in the crooner era of the 1950s and 1960s; and other bygone shops and attractions that pre-date the arrival of 7-Eleven. It would be a tourist trap if it charged an admission fee but most visitors just wander the grounds snapping photos without making any impulse purchases. If you want to support this bit of…
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Wat Thammikaram
If you really need some exercise, hike the 418 steps to the golden-spired Wat Thammikaram, established by King Rama IV. Hordes of monkeys provide endless entertainment along the way. The view from the top stretches west to Myanmar's border, only 11km away.
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Rabieng Rim Nam
This riverside restaurant serves up terrific food and a lot of tourist information in English – a rarity in this town – and organises tours. Sadly the affiliated guest house is just too decrepit to recommend.
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Wat Tan Sai
Sitting atop a headland to the north, Wat Tan Sai has multiple golden spires that reach to the sky like a fantasy Disneyland castle. You can clamber up to the top for sensational views of the area.
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Diving Excursions
Islands off the coast to the south, including Ko Thalu and Ko Sing, offer good snorkelling and diving from the end of January to mid-May. Coral Hotel in Bang Saphan Yai can arrange half-day diving excursions to these islands, as well as outings to virtually every site in the region.
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I-Ta-Lay
I-Ta-Lay is a tasty local joint right along the beach. Not a drop of English is spoken, but the seafood is great and there are plenty of smiles. There are also a couple of bungalows out the back for rent.
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Ao Manao
On weekends, locals head to Ao Manao, 4km south of town, an island- dotted bay ringed by a clean sandy beach. It is within Wing 5 of a Thai air-force base and each and every week the beach is given a military-grade clean up. There are the usual beach amenities: a restaurant and rentable beach chairs, umbrellas and inner tubes. En route to the beach you'll pass Thailand's Top Guns relaxing on a nearby golf course and driving range. You enter the base through a checkpoint on Th Suseuk from town; you may need to show your passport. The beach closes at 8pm.
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Ao Prachuap
The town's crowning feature is Ao Prachuap (Prachuap Bay), a gracefully curving bay outlined by an oceanfront esplanade. In the cool hours of the morning and evening, locals run, shuffle or promenade along this route enjoying the ocean breezes and sea music. On Friday and Saturday evenings, the esplanade hosts a Walking Street market, selling food, souvenirs and clothes.
North of Khao Chong Krajok, just over the bridge, the bay stretches peacefully to a toothy mountain scraper with less commercial activity than its in-town counterpart. There is a nice sandy beach here though it does lack in privacy due to its proximity to passing motorists. Nonetheless, weekending Thais…
reviewed
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Baan Silapin
Local painter Tawee Kase-ngam established this artist collective in a shady grove 4km west of Th Phetkasem. The galleries and studio spaces highlight the works of 21 artists, many of whom opted out of Bangkok's fast-paced art world in favour of Hua Hin's more relaxed atmosphere and its scenic landscape of mountains and sea. Outlying clay huts shelter the playful sculptures of Nai Dee and Mae A-Ngoon. Khun Nang, a skilful and charismatic teacher, leads art classes for adults on Tuesday and Thursday and for children on Saturday.
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Ban Yang Na
This air-conditioned cafe provides a nice retreat from the heat plus the usual caffeine and bakery treats.
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Bella Pizza
There are enough foreigners in town to warrant a pizza restaurant and this pie shop makes everyone happy. Plus there's a curious international pedigree: the Thai owner worked in Sweden at a pizza restaurant.
reviewed
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Black Mountain Golf Course
The city's newest course is currently everyone's favourite. About 10km west of Hua Hin, the 18-hole course was carved out of jungle and an old pineapple plantation and it retains some natural creeks used as water hazards. The 2009 and 2010 Asian PGA tour was held here.
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Day Market
A good spot for people-watching and local noshing, the day market, north of the clock tower, has food stalls on the perimeter serving the usual noodle dishes as well as specialities such as kà·nŏm jeen tôrt man (thin noodles with fried spicy fishcake) and the hot-season favourite kôw châa pét·bù·ree (moist chilled rice served with sweetmeats).
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Hat Hua Hin Neua
Genteel but modest Thai-Victorian garden estates bestowed with ocean-inspired names, such as 'Listening to the Sea House', line this end of the coast. The current monarchy's palace lies about 3km north of town but visitors are only allowed on the grounds. On weekends, Th Naebkehardt is the preferred getaway for Bangkok Thais, some of whom still summer in the old-fashioned residences while others come to supper in the houses that have been converted into restaurants.
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Hat Puak Tian
Locals come to this dark-sands beach, 20km southeast of Phetchaburi, on weekends to eat seafood and frolic in the surf. Another modest attraction is the literary role this beach played in the Thai epic poem Phra Aphaimani, written by Sunthorn Phu. A partially submerged statue of a giant woman standing offshore with an outstretched hand and a forlorn expression depicts a character from the poem who disguised herself as a beautiful temptress to win the love of the hero and imprison him on this beach. But he discovers her treachery (and her true ugliness) and with the help of a mermaid escapes to Ko Samet (a nicer beach so maybe he was on to something).
You'll need private…
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Hua Hin Bike Tours
A husband-and-wife team operates this cycling company that leads half-, full-, and multiday tours to a variety of attractions in and around Hua Hin. Pedal to the Hua Hin Hills Vineyard for some well-earned refreshment, tour the coastal byways south of Hua Hin, or ride among the limestone mountains of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. They also rent premium bicycles (500B per day) for independent cyclists and can recommend routes. The same couple also leads long-distance charity and corporate bike tours across Thailand; visit the parent company Tour de Asia for more information.
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Hua Hin Koti
Across from the Night Market, this Thai-Chinese restaurant is a national culinary luminary. Thais adore the fried crab balls, while foreigners swoon over đôm yam gûng (shrimp soup with lemongrass). And everyone loves the spicy seafood salad (yam tá-lair) and deep-fried fish with ginger.
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Jek Meng
Dishes up big, piping-hot bowls of noodles and fried rice. Look for the black-and-white chequered tablecloths.
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Jek Pia Coffeeshop
More than just a coffee shop, this 50-year-old restaurant is another culinary destination specialising in an extensive array of stir-fried seafood dishes. If it is too full to get a seat, you can order from the same menu at the sukiyaki restaurant further south on Th Naebkehardt.
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Kasama's Pizza
An expats' favourite, this open-air spot near the main road to town does praiseworthy New York–style pizzas in coconut territory.
reviewed
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Khanom Jeen Restaurant
Next to Fame Restaurant, this hole-in-the-wall eatery is locally famous for its spicy bowls of kà·nŏm jeen (rice noodles served with a spicy fish sauce). Add your own touch with condiments of holy basil, sliced cucumber and pickled vegetables.
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Khao Chong Krajok
At the northern end of town, Khao Chong Krajok ('Mirror Tunnel Mountain', so named for the mountain-side hole that seemingly reflects the sky) provides a beloved Prachuap tradition: climbing to the top, dodging ill-behaved monkeys and enjoying a cascading view of a curlicue coastline. A long flight of stairs soiled by the partly wild monkeys leads to a mountain-top temple established by Rama VI. From here there are perfect views of the town and the bay and even the border with Myanmar, just 11km away. Don't bring food, drink or plastic bags with you as the monkeys will assume it is a prize worth nipping.
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Khlong Khao Daeng
You can hire a boat at Wat Khao Daeng for a cruise (400B, 45 minutes) along the canal in the morning or afternoon. Before heading out, chat with your prospective guide to see how well they speak English. Better guides will know the English names of common waterfowl and point them out to you.
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Khon Toy Restaurant
This open-air restaurant is shielded from the street by a screen of greenery. Inside is a simple but busy kitchen that does a brisk business in evening takeaway meals. Everything is stir-fried and tasty.
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Kiteboarding Asia
This 10-year old company operates four beachside shops that rent equipment and teach lessons. The three-day introductory course teaches beginners the physical mechanics of the sport, and the instructor recommends newbies come when the winds are blowing from the southeast (January to March) and the sea is less choppy.
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